EScanlon

Now, the reason I posted the above so strongly is that one very important note must be made: THE FUSE BOX IN Inf's GALLERY DOES NOT MATCH THE ONE IN SPORTS Z MAGAZINE. The one in Sports Z Magazine is a different style, in that the whole passenger side does indeed have a brass bar connecting the input side of all those fuses. Soldering that side would be a good idea IN ADDITION to tightening the crimps. Only two White wires connect to that side. Read the article if you have doubts. But if you look at Inf's you'll right away note the difference on the passenger side. Inf's has a White/Red wire on the bottom with a rubber cap hiding the bolt/nut and a Red wire which connects to the Headlights. Shunt here and your lights stay on all the time. Enrique Scanlon

Sorry Dave, but your theory won't wash. This is exactly the type of problem that Alan H. rallies against, the A$$umption that because you read it on the internet it makes it not only TRUE, but irrefutable. In this case, the author has done some "fixing" but I would love to find out if this really did in fact eliminate his problems, and not cause a whole new series of them. Look at the schematic for the 240, and if you go to the "one side" theory, what you'll discover is that you will be joining circuits that are NOT designed to be joined. The 240Z fuse box has TWO columns of fuses not one. Go ahead, try to decide which passenger side he was referring to. Next, if you look at the little drawing showing which side to solder, you'll note that he refers to only soldering one side of the fuse box, and his diagram shows 6 fuses. Now I'm not sure if he's referring to a 240Z or a SRL/SPL vehicle, but MY Z has 10 fuses, and my SRL 311 has 6. His connections, all on the one side of the fuse box do eventually connect on the SRL311 wiring diagram but NOT on the 240Z's. On the Z, the least you'll do is have your fuel pump, accessory relay and resistor and tach contstantly "live", as well as the headlights. EVEN WITH THE IGNITION OFF. That is if you connect the wires on the one side. If you connect them on the other, then you'll REALLY cause heck. On the 240 Z wiring diagram, look SPECIFICALLY at the bottom side of the fuse box drawn. You'll note a Blue/Red Wire and a Black/White all the way to the right hand side of the bottom edge. Those are SWITCHED via the Ignition and Headlight Switches and only when those switches are turned ON. Join those wires to the White/Red to the left of the fuse box, and you will have defeated the switches, as well as connected the Positive side of the battery directly to the output side of the Alternator and Voltage Regulator. Sounds Yummy doesn't it? So have at it, and watch your system FRY! Or be beset with the thousand and one "mysterious" electrical problems that beset the 240Z's due to half-a$$ed attempts at "fixing". So, IMNSHO, this is a B A D idea. Enrique Scanlon

Having spoken to the agent for Haggerty Insurance which is one of the prime Classic Automobile Insurance companies, be aware of the following: The car MUST be garaged. Garage must be attached to your home and be lockable. Car is limited to "Good Weather" Driving or to and from Car Shows. Limited number of miles per year. Car's condition is evaluated before value is established and to determine if insurance policy is to be granted. 2¢

Flat Black + Shiny Clear Coat = Shiny Black Flat * (color) + Shiny Clear (Transparent) Coat = Shiny * (color) with whatever tint the Clear Coat introduced. This is the same formula that gets used when painting with Candy paints. That is: White Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep BRIGHT Red. Silver Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep Medium Dark BRIGHT Red. (Then depending on the Metallic content of the silver) Black Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep DARK Red. Last note, Candy paints are tipically Clear Coated afterwards to enhance their Gloss. That can also affect their "Depth". Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Chalking, or when the paint is so burnt (dead) that it literally pulverizes on contact. Actually what has happened is that the paint has been oxidized by years of exposure to UV rays and lack of proper washing and waxing. There used to be a wax for sale that purportedly "revived" the paint so it would look good again. The exact name escapes me, but I think Color-Guard or something like that. All it was was COLORED wax in the same color family as your car. It had a high amount of polishing compound in it (in order to remove the oxidizing) and the colored wax was to "tint" whatever was left afterwards. Just more snake oil as far as I'm concerned. You're right, you need to remove that paint, but if the BASE primer or bodywork is in good condition, you don't need to go much further than that. If you have cracks in the primer / bodywork, or if you can see areas where the primer has been exposed to the elements and you can see surface rust, or the primer or base paint is flaking off, then you MUST go to the metal. So, repeating, but concisely, you can D/A the paint off quickly using 80 or 120 grit, 45-55psi at the tool. Sand the PANEL and not just in spots, when you start seeing the primer, you can continue, but I would recommend you just continue on the PAINT. Then, do a second pass using 220 or 320 grit paper to remove the last of the paint and a good amount of the primer and smooth any scratches from the 80/120. You can then go to Etch Primer followed by Fill Primer, or Epoxy and then Fill. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

I also question the adviseablity of soldering down one side and therefore joining all those wires into ONE circuit. I don't think there was much thought put into that, as one of the main problems the Z has is in trying to trace down electrical troubles. Personally, if soldering was deemed a MUST, I would only solder where the connections are already made, and not introduce new wiring into the wiring harness without first investigating it thoroughly. 2¢

Some notes on paint stripper: It can cause chemical burns if you're not careful, and usually, the first indication is when it is ALREADY burning you. Wear gloves, eye protection and if possible an apron designed for the job. You can get these at Harbor Freight or other discount places. Remember you're looking for something to protect YOU from the stuff. You must remove ALL of it from the body afterwards. If you leave little streaks of it in the seams, cracks, corners it WILL leach out when you paint the car and ruin your paint job in that area. It WILL destroy any bodywork that may already be on the car. It will also destroy any primer, caulking, rubber, plastic etc, that it comes in contact with. About the only thing it will NOT destroy, is metal, and if you let it dry, there are some that will say you've ruined the metal as it is a B!TCH to remove then. The DRIED residue can become active again with just the sweat from your body. If you grind, sand, or blow it off the car, it is a burn waiting to happen. Trust me, it does NOT feel good on tender parts of your body. Now, from what you're saying, it sounds as though you're removing ALL the paint. I'm guessing you're doing the typical remove all the paint to the metal type of paint job. I've asked Why? so many other times I'll presume you've read those posts, but I will reiterate that that is not always the BEST way to do a paint job. 2¢

The fuse box connections at the back part of the box usually have a protective film on them that causes solder NOT to sweat the joint properly. You'll end up overheating the connection and melting the plastic if you're not EXTREMELY careful. Also having some of the wires right there, it's possible to melt the insulation on them. I tried the solder method and decided to quit before damage ensued. The biggest problem with the fuse box is that the connections from back to front are RIVETED. You could just tap the ones you perceive are loose, or if you're careful you could give ALL of them another whack with a hammer and punch and you'll reduce the resistance there. Another point, look at the picture you posted showing the front with the fuses. The Lower Right fuse is not centered in the holder. This will also increase resistance, not a lot, but an increase nonetheless. The Middle Right fuse is showing that the holder has overheated, (the brass is darker) be sure to clean the holder well. One real easy way of doing this is to get a small pair of hemostats and clamp a small piece of steel wool in the jaws and twirl the steel wool inside the clamps. Another tool can be obtained from a hardware store, they're called contact cleaners and are just a bunch of fibreglass strands wrapped in a "pencil" The Top Left is showing RUST! Another item that will increase resistance in a circuit. IN a nutshell, take ALL the fuses out, and do a continuity check on them. I've said this time and time again, don't just VISUALLY check them. Yes, that's how fuses are supposed to be checked, and if they're blown that's correct, BUT these glass fuses were and are NOTORIOUS for loose end caps, and broken connections inside the cap. Personally, I wouldn't try to re-use fuses in a fuse box regardless of where I got it, UNLESS it was a brand new in the box. Even then I would do a complete check on them. Rick has some excellent parts, and it's obvious you got an excellent fuse box, but the fuses are a very minor part of it. Pitch them, and start with new ones that you put in AFTER you clean the contacts and tighten the rivets. 2¢

Unfortunately, as far as insurance goes, the fact that you're young and male are your two biggest strikes against you. Now if you can borrow a girl cousins driver's license for a couple weeks, and have her help you wear some of her clothes, then go down and get insurance that way, then you MIGHT stand a chance of getting lower rates. Now if you go there with the Z, you're going to get jacked anyhow. It isn't that we are trying to talk you away from the Z, it's just that it is rated a SPORTS Car. Insurance companies see it written as $P:o RT$. And don't worry about being a newby and getting flamed, I think you'll find that most of us here prefer our newby meat fresh off the hoof. :devious: 2¢

Zach, by the way, I'm here in Vancouver, Washington. So if you want, I could meet with you and take a look at your car and give you some advice right there. Just a thought for you. PM me and we can exchange phone numbers. Next: Green Primer; sounds a lot like Epoxy Primer, or it could be some of the newer Acrylic Urethane. I don't paint the Acrylic Urethanes as some of them have some REAL hazardous fumes and I don't have a full face respirator with outside feed, and that's what I've heard you need. As far as shooting just to get an even coat? I don't know that I would sand down to the metal just to get an even coating, now if you are ALREADY at the metal, then if it IS a Sealer Etcher, then by all means. An etching primer is always PREFERRED over bare metal, and under body work. However, if you've already past that stage, I wouldn't undo all the work just to use it. Mind you, this is all based on your having prepared the metal PROPERLY. Bare metal needs to be etched or at LEAST D/A sanded with 220-360 grit. That way you'll have the fine swirls and ridges that the primer needs to make a solid bond onto the metal. If you did NOT prepare the metal, then you BETTER sand it down so that you can do it properly. At that point, use the Etching Primer. When you mention the Fiber Hair product, I'm supposing you are referring to what we used to call "Gorilla Snot" or "Gorilla Hair". That's basically fibreglass strands in bondo. You probably SHOULD use the sealer over this, but if I recall properly, just fibreglass and bondo mix are ok. The substance you have to worry about is the RESIN that gets used with fibreglass strand mat or cloth. So try to remember if the stuff you used had a greenish tinge to it or maybe a brownish gray (kind of like caramel colored). That WOULD be a resin based bondo, and therefore should be treated as fibreglass. Another absolute sign that you were using fibreglass RESIN based material, is if the catalyst was a clear liquid peroxide. Usually you add it at the rate of 1 drop per ounce of resin. If on the other hand you're talking the plain gray, or almost pale beige stuff, that's regular bondo. The hardener for this is typically a reddish toothpaste-like paste. I've seen blue, black, green hardener so that it isn't red is not an indicator. Phrasing it another way, you won't go wrong using a sealer over the whole car just before the paint. It's just that most sealers aren't very high fillers, so it usually ends up being yet another step. To describe the IDEAL procedure: Body down to metal. All seams seam welded and ground smooth. Total Metal Preparation, whether by using an Etch Primer or a Metal Preparation Wash. Perform all body work required to smooth body. Primer with a Medium Fill or High Fill primer depending on the amount of body work done. Wet sand smooth. Top Cap and sand smooth. Re-prime if necessary and re-sand. Wait at least a week. Inspect for any changes to the body due to shrinkage of the Top Cap. Re-prime if necessary and re-sand. Top the primer with Sealer, giving it a good uniform coat. Wait overnight, then using a fine scuff pad, knock down any bumpies on the sealer. Wax and Grease Remove Mask Wax and Grease Remove Paint Let it sit at least 24 hours before ANY reassembly, and the longer the better for anything that gets fastened to the body and presses on the paint. DO NOT WAX FOR AT LEAST 3-4 MONTHS. If washing is necessary, use copious amounts of water, a drop or two of detergent (the least amount possible) and the softest cloth you have and DO NOT APPLY STRONG PRESSURE. As long as you give me credit for the posting you're welcome to use this elsewhere. The reason for the credit isn't for bragging rights but so that people know whom to ask and whom to blame. Enrique Scanlon

Now you've primered the car. Wait at least a couple hours before going in there and removing any masking you may have done. The next steps will determine how good your final paint job will look, so be meticulous in doing them well. After waiting at LEAST 24 hours, and LONGER if the temperature is low, humidity high, or you've shot a THICK coat of primer. 11) Scuff the whole car with a Grey Scuff Pad or very lightly with a Maroon one. The intent of this is to remove any overspray "dust" and to very VERY lightly cut the skin on the primer. You're not looking to sand with this, just to knock off any surface crud that may have stuck to the primer. 12) Using 360 or 400 grit paper, a sanding block, and a rag that's dripping wet with water, start sanding the roof of the car. Work your sanding so that you are using SHORT diagonal strokes in a lengthwise orderly manner. Using keyboard symbols what you want is this: \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ ==>> Hopefully you can see what I mean. If you use strictly linear strokes there is a HIGH probability that you will end up "grooving" the primer. That is, due to the unevenness of the pressure you will be applying to the sanding pad, AND the tendency of humans to do linear movements by moving their hand from close to their body to extending their arm all the way, rather than side to side (if you do that you'll have an ARC). What will happen is that the sanding paper and block will cut deeper grooves under the areas of high pressure. By using short diagonal strokes, you use the SIDE of your hand AND you are cross hatching the stroke with the return stroke. 13) As you sand each panel, use copious amounts of water to flow away the cut primer. Every so often, use the edge of your sanding block, or get a rubber squeege and squeegee the panel "dry". Look at the reflection of the water as you squeegee. If the panel has been sanded smooth and even, you should be able to see an EVEN satin moistness. If you see SHINE, more than likely that is a SHALLOW area in the primer. You can continue to sand the panel down to meet that shallow OR you can apply Top Cap Primer to fill it. This is where experience is your best bet. What some guys would Top Cap, others would sand smooth and the reverse. You just have to develop a feel for how thick your primer is, and how much more sanding you can do before you cut through the primer to the metal. Remember, if you cut through to the metal, or the base coat, then you must repaint that area so that you can once again blend it in. 14) Continue sanding the whole car until you are finished. If you find that you have some areas that need Top Cap, you can either apply it to just that panel and keep on going, or wait till you finish sanding the whole car. Note, since Top cap is basically thickened primer, you will want the panel to be bone dry, AND you will have also given it a good wipe down with Wax and Grease Remover. Just like you did to primer the car originally. Apply the Top Cap with a rubber squeege or one of the smaller bondo spreaders. Squeeze it tight into the scratch or shallow and smooth it off as best as possible while still building it up so that you can sand it smooth. Remember, it's purpose is to provide material to be sanded smooth. If you skimp, you'll more than likely have to re-apply. If you go overboard, you'll be sanding that much longer. Personally, to sand the Top Cap, I use 320 grit for Red, and 360 for Blue / Green and I haven't used Yellow in so long I don't know if they still sell it, but 400 there. Test the panel for smoothness every so often until you can readily see that it's smooth. Some people will shoot a very light mist coat of offsetting color paint on top of the primer as a GUIDE COAT. This is an excellent idea if you shot extra thick primer, or HIGH fill primer or even if you're not quite expreienced enough to make sure you sand the whole panel evenly and smoothly. It's no shame to use it as it is a helping tool. It's also excellent at pointing out shallow area's in your panel. Well, there you have it. I've tried to be concise, and although that may get a chuckle or two out of everyone, go ahead and check out any book that deals with painting and tell me how well I did. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Before you primer, you should have an Organic Vapor Breather. This is the type that has those 2 charcoal canisters and / pre-filters on each side of the mask. They're there to block the overspray that WILL be floating around that you do NOT want in your lungs or nose. Please, DO NOT ASSUME THAT A SIMPLE PAPER FACE MASK IS ADEQUATE! But then again, they're your lungs, if you feel you will be a good candidate for a Lung Transplant in the future, ignore this warning. 7) Fill your paint gun with primer. I tend to only fill it to about 3/4 of the cup. This way you won't be dripping on the car as you do the roof, hood. Even then, I will usually tie a rag around the cup top to catch any drips out the vent hole. 8) Check your spray pattern and volume on a scrap piece of cardboard, metal, etc. Your paint gun should allow you to adjust the width and the amount of paint you will be spraying. The adjustment down to a SPOT is for shooting into tight and deep recessed areas. The width is so that you can adjust how much overspray to the top and bottom of your pattern gets thrown out. The volume needle determines how much paint you will be spraying at one time. Personally, I like to set my pattern at a straight up and down fan, measuring about 9-12" tall when about 12" away from the metal. A single steady pass should leave enough color that you can tell you've misted it completely, but you don't have complete total coverage. This is commonly referred to as a Single Pass Mist Coat. A Double Wet coat is TWO passes, but this time on each pass you've thoroughly wetted the surface. The volume needle will regulate how much paint you're shooting, the next variable is your coating speed. Obviously the FASTER you move your hand accross the panel, the LESS paint you will get on it. Conversely, the SLOWER your pass, the MORE paint you will get on it. You need to be careful as you don't want to put the paint so lightly that you will be putting it on "DRY" and not so heavy that you cause it to "SAG" or RUN. 9) Make your first coat a thorough LIGHT Double Wet. The main intent here is to get a good even coat AND to get the sequence of panels down pat. What's a sequence of panels? Ahh, here's where technique is very important. While you are primering, you are practicing your technique in painting AND how to "flow" around the car. If you do this just right, you will NOT have a Dry Line left. Do this out of step or in a haphazard manner and you will have a Foggy look afterwards, where the newly applied paint didn't flow into and blend with the prior paint pass. (That's what a dry line is.) Thankfully, primer is very forgiving about dry - lining. PAINT however is NOT. I would start midline on the roof, go from the windshield all the way to the hatch window, then back and forth all the way to one side. As you approach the side edge, shoot it from the top down and on the back stroke, from the bottom up (under the gutter). Carry this stroke down the back window edge. Quickly, step over to the other side and do the other half of the roof, duplicating your pattern. Remember, shoot the rail AND the pillar, but don't get crazy about getting too far down the pillar. Go back to the first side and pick up on the pillar and paint down the pillar to the back of the hatch and down the top of the rear fender. You get the idea? The idea is to shoot a complete area or half an area, carry the paint line (the leading edge of where you are applying paint) forward and before it has a chance to dry, you go back and pick it up on the other edge and paint the next area or the other half. The intent is to NEVER let the paint line dry and carry it forward until you finally meet it to itself at the opposite end of the car from where you started. Imagine that you are pouring the paint from the top and you want the paint to flow from panel to panel all the way from the point where you start pouring to the final and furthest edge of the car. Just like an animated cartoon. The paint ideally will never have stopped at any edge, and will have flowed evenly. Ok, this gets you through the first coat. 10) Depending on how much primer filler you need to apply, shoot another 2-3 coats over the whole car, waiting 15-30 minutes between coats depending on temperature, humidity and thickness of your previous coat. Got all this? Next post.....

Once you're done with the body work and ready for primer: 1) Using a quality Wax and Grease Remover, wipe off the WHOLE car. Procedure for this is to get one rag cloth that's been moistened with the W&G and another to wipe dry. Wipe with the moistened cloth a section about 2' x 2', then before it has a chance to evaporate, wipe dry with the dry cloth. Get to all edges, underneath areas, ANYWHERE that you can access. 2) Inspect the car completely. If any of the original finish is still showing, make sure that you've sanded it so that there is no SHINE left on it. If there's shine, paint / primer won't stick. You could wet sand if there's any doubt as to how smooth this area is (320 grit is ok) or you could use a 3M Scotch SCUFF PAD. This is something that looks a lot like one of those green pads you would use in the kitchen but it's designed for body work. You can get it in Brown (coarse), Green (Medium), Maroon (Fine) or Grey (Extra Fine). At this stage a Maroon should be fine. 2a) If you've wet sanded or scuffed any areas, make sure you W&G those areas again. 3) Mask any areas that will NOT get primered. 4) W&G car again. Make sure you use fresh clean rags, change your dry rag often, and also your moistened one. Ratio should be about 2 dry to 1 wet. This may seem like overkill, but you would be surprised how many times I've seen paint jobs ruined because this was done only once or twice. Your body exudes oil, if you touch the car barehanded you'll leave residue behind. As you've been working on it, scuffing, masking, etc, you will have left behind little dabs of skin oil. These can cause fish eye, crazing, lifting, to name a few. 5) Allow the car to "breathe" about 30 mins or so in the paint booth. This is to allow whatever W&G residue you didn't wipe off evaporate. 6) Mix your primer according to directions. Now let me digress. Primer Filler: This is the primer to use to lay down a coat of material that you will be Wet Sanding smooth. This is the one that will make your final paint look like glass. There is High Fill and Regular Fill. If you are experienced doing bondo / panel repairs, then you can get away with Regular Fill. If you have any doubts whatsoever as to how smooth the PANEL is overall, I would use High Fill. Yes it's more work to sand a High Fill primer panel down, but the results SHOW. Believe me when I tell you that you will SEE any imperfection in the panel once you finish painting. A dark paint will literally HIGHLIGHT any sub surface irregularity. A light color paint will not show it as readily but to the trained eye they're still visible. The intent of FILL primer is to provide a sandable surface that you will then sand smooth so that when the paint is applied it will reflect just like if it were a mirror. And like a mirror, it doesn't take much of a distortion to show up. Sealer Primer: Sealer does exactly what the name implies. It seals the base materials from the topcoat. This type usually has SOME fill material, so yoiu can sand it smooth also. However, you must NOT cut through it to the base or you will have to shoot another coat. It's purpose is to SEAL. Depending on what type of repairs you've done will dictate whether you should or MUST use sealer. Bondo, if mixed properly and worked properly and most importantly NOT FRESH (within 48 hours), should be ok without Sealer. Red Cap, if applied thickly, MAY require sealer. Fibreglass work, almost without exceptions, SHOULD be sealed. Fibreglass resin tends to leech for MONTHS and it will cause paint both Lacquer and Acrylic Enamel to craze, lift, fish-eye, haze to name a few. I personally will not primer and paint over fibreglass work without Sealing it. Plain Sealer: This has NO fill in it. You can use this just prior to painting if you have any doubts as to the base. Usually this stuff is also called "non-sanding". That is, you don't have to scuff off the top skin. Note however, that this is usually only for a limited amount of time (24-48 hours usually). Red Cap or Top Cap: This is thickened primer. You can obtain this in various colors and sanding consistencies. There's Red, Lite Blue, Lite Green, Yellow. The difference in the color usually denotes how "sandable" it is. The more sandable the Top Cap is, the easier it is to remove it and hence harder to gauge when you've FILLED the imperfection you're looking to get rid off. (Remember, that's HALF the purpose of primer / filler and the ONLY purpose for Top Cap) Ok, got all that? I'm going to parse this out into two postings so that the server can "page" if necessary. Enrique

Victor: The main problem with NOT using an etching primer below the bondo is that if there is ANY way for moisture to creep in between the bondo and the metal you can be assured that it WILL eventually rust and cause the bondo to pop off. The kinds of problems that would indicate that are: holes in the metal for "fingers" of bondo to hold tighter. If the bondo is on a seam or crack in the metal that hasn't been thoroughly welded / brazed closed. If the bondo comes close to the edge of the metal (such as panel edges) where the paint can get real thin and therefore chip. And lastly, Flex Points on the car body. These tend to crack both the bondo and the paint and therefore allow moisture to creep in. Now, even if you were to etch primer or epoxy primer, or even zinc plate the metal there are NO guarantees regarding rust-proofing metal. At best you will be given promises with conditions. Heck, even POR which many of us have used and like has these provitions in their warranty paperwork. So having said all that. If your choice were to use a rattle can of primer before you put on the bondo, I wouldn't grind off the bondo to primer. Reason for this is that you can't really get a good even coat with a rattle can. Yes there are guys out there that are very good, but I'll still take any one of them on with my primer gun. Secondly, I can't think of a single brand of epoxy primer in a rattle can, and the same goes for etching primer. What I would do, is make sure you smooth off all your bondo so that you can lay a good coat of Fill Primer. Wet sand that down so that it finishes the panel smooth. Then using a Primer SEALER give it one last coat. You might also be able to get NON-sanding sealer and then top off with your paint. Can I guarantee that you'll never get rust in that panel? Nope. But then again, I couldn't even if you had used Etch Primer. Years ago, (Mid 80's) we didn't use etching primer as a matter of course. We used good old Ditzler Red Oxide or Gray Oxide and made sure we had a good clean surface to apply it to. Bondo was applied to bare metal with deep scratches left in it by 16 or 24 grit grind pads, and the stuff would last for YEARS on vehicles used continuously in winter weather and even with road salt. Did some of them eventually rust? Yes. But I'll be honest that the rust could be from regular use and not because of prior repairs. So, hope this helps. Enrique

Try good old Mineral Spirits. Also known as plain Paint Thinner (for oil based paints). You'd be surprised at the amount of goop you can get off with that stuff and rarely will it hurt a paint job. If it does, then the paint was shot to begin with. Also works as a good basic Wax and Grease remover. 2¢

Your best bet is to carefully remove whatever overspray is on the decal. However, don't hold your breath as the silverized decal had the lettering and color code silk-screened on with .... more paint. More than likely it will have been smudged off when you finish cleaning off the overspray or paint on top of it. However, you CAN peel back that sticker or look behind the Engine Plate on the Strut Wall, or look under some other piece of hardware that might / should not have been removed since the factory. Then you can get a good idea of what color it was originally. MPerdue has a web site with color pictures of the original colors. Granted you have to take your color monitor's performance into consideration, but you should be able to pick out yours. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

I hope that the loss of your pet is slightly less heavy when you consider that he may very well have thanked you for sparing him the misery of a painful death. I'm sure he's waiting for you, or will be back in another life to share your home. Enrique Scanlon

I'm a body man not a mechanic, so I'll admit to knowing only enough to be dangerous. However, don't forget that the SU carbs have little pockets of 20W oil for the plunger in each of the carbs. Could it be that the owner has just recently "oiled" his carbs and overfilled them? As I understand the excess just gets aspirated into the cylinders and then gets combusted and exhausted. Just my 2¢ Enrique

Rick: I agree with you regarding information that is being disseminated / broadcast to the public as a whole. Your comment: Is entirely appropriate when referring to PUBLIC dissemination. Television, Radio, Newspapers, Magazines, are all public. I won't go out and try to buy every copy of a newspaper or magazine trying to stop a bit of erroneous information, nor will I attempt to jam the broadcast of TV or Radio. When it comes to e-mail however, it becomes a one on one dissemination. The message, although maybe part of a blanket mailing, was still addressed to my e-mail address. At that point, if I choose to propagate that e-mail I become a part of the dissemination process, and an unwitting supporter. I'm not going to try to hack into computer systems to eliminate that message. I MIGHT forward it with my own opposing thoughts prefacing it, but that would be an active attack upon it. That's why I chose to not forward it, and not try to "correct" anyone's viewpoint on it, except for here in this forum. And by posting about that list on this forum, is why I spoke up. Again, we now have an OPEN forum where many people have access to the information and to a discussion of it. That's why I spoke up and expressed my opinion. If you had instead just forwarded it to everyone on the mail list, I would have just ignored it. Hopefully I've made my point clear. Enrique

Tanny: Re-reading my original reply to your post about communism, I can see where it may have seemed to be a direct attack at your viewpoint. I apologize, as my intent in using the term pseudo intellectual referred to the many discussions I've had in social circles whereupon some individual who, in trying to appear knowledgeable or worldly, will spout just that type of rhetoric. And I agree with your reply: and in the same vein I responded to your comment regarding true communism. Anyhow, hopefully no offense was taken as none was meant. Enrique

DO NOT USE SILICONE TO SEAL THE SENDER IN! Silicone is not impervious to gasoline and will eventually leak. The Rubber O-Ring that the sender presses down on when the Locking Flange is turned is what has gone bad. You should be able to get a replacement o-ring at your local Full Service Auto Parts Store. Take the old one in, bring the sender too as that way they can get you the best match. Mike's already posted how to remove it, installation is just the reverse. Personally, I wouldn't go buying a new sending unit unless the other one is bad. HTH

Rick: You pose a good question. But the answer to your question is not what I would have done, but rather another question. Let me explain a couple things first. I HAVE received that list. In fact, due to the copious amount of e-mails I receive, I've received it at least 3 times. My response to those e-mails was to simply ignore them. The reason I ignored them was that the provenance of each of those e-mails were people who tend to forward any and all kinds of "silly" e-mail, and I just didn't care to expend the effort trying to get them to understand my point of view. Simply put, those individuals REACT to situations and don't think them through. I would not be surprised to find out that they had purchased inordinate amounts of duct tape and plastic sheeting in response to the Bio / Chemical Attack warning given some weeks back. Whereas here, amongst a group of people whose opinion I respect and intelligence level at a level that serious discussions can be effected, I felt it necessary to "rant" as I did. Why would I not forward that e-mail, nor make it available on this forum? Simply put, I felt it was an asinine idea then and still do. To propagate it, would have given it validity that I did not feel it merited. I'm not in the business of News Reporting nor Gossip Propagation, and if I were, undoubtedly someone would complain that I wasn't being totally fair because of my "editing" of information. Unfortunately, whenever you pass on that type of "news", you inadvertently become a supporter of it. Whether you may agree with it or not, you've propagated it. By propagating it, you've extended it's exposure and therefore it's viability. In my opinion the BEST thing that can happen to a bad idea, is to squelch it. If the individual that proposes that bad idea wishes to continue exerting efforts in order to spread his idea, then I would expect others to squelch it as well. If they don't, then they've contributed to it. So, don't take offense at what I'm saying. I just feel very strongly that bad ideas should be stopped. So, in answer to your question, here's my question to you: WHY, should you make that list available to more people? 2¢

Mike: This is SO TRUE!!! However, I must append the following: USES FOR TOOLS HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports sedan just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel cylinders. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the socket drawer (what wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell. ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetylene torch. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster over the bench grinder. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, “&%(*)?/#@!”. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Z to the ground after you have installed a set of Mulholland lowered road springs, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front air dam. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in boltholes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys. CRAFTSMAN ½ x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic’s own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, “the sunshine vitamin”, which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt: can also be used, as the name implies, to round out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 24 years ago by someone in Yokohama, and snaps them off.

If you really, REALLY want something unique, see if you can find a Kyosho Mini-Z Radio Control Racer. These little puppies really Zip along and are a total blast to drive. Although they don't offer a Z, they do offer various body choices. Porsche, VW (new), Audi, Honda etc. So why is this such a big deal, and why mention it here? Because, if you get one of these models, and with a very little bit of modification, you can get it to fit right onto the Mini-Z chassis. Now you'll have a Radio Control Mini Z 240Z. Then, do it up like your car and you'll have your big baby and a Mini Me Z! 2¢

Ok, I went to your gallery. If the interior in "Fully Loaded" is the interior to YOUR car.... Since you have a lot of instruments, no discernable amount of wood, and the predominant color of the instruments and switches and stereo etc are the dark pewter look, I'm changing my selection to either Fighter or Champion. Race is a bit too bright. My previous choices wouldn't complement your dash. Again, IF the interior in Fully Loaded is yours. If it isn't, then you can see why I flip-flopped. Enrique