240260280z

pics https://www.google.co.jp/search?btnG=Search&gbv=1&tbm=isch&q=l20%20nissan%20site:.jp%20-%22l20a%22 stuff https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=l20+nissan+site:.jp+-%22l20a%22&gbv=1&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=gOSlU6DaMtK9oQSdwYL4AQ&ved=0CAQQ_AU

I should have said. "Needle depth in the piston" rather than needle height. When tuning, I am programmed to pull out the piston, flip them over and look at the needle and shoulder sticking up in the air from the piston thus my use of height. The correct method for setting the needle depth in the piston is to have the shoulder of the needle flush with the base of the piston.... not flush with the trough machined out of the piston. It is important for this to be the same on both carbs as well as the same fuel level if you want more precision when balancing at idle. The carbs have a lot of self-healing properties so having different needle depths in the pistons can be compensated by having different jet heights... but to set the correct jet height you have to read the plugs or measure A/F with an 02 from one carb at a time (at different exhaust manifold runners or at exhaust pipe with only one carb at a time in operation.) For balancing the correct jet heights, I recommend you drive then check plugs 2 and 5. Adjust jet heights to match plug colour...this woks on old and new motors.

L20A FSM is here: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf

I forgot to mention that you should set the needle height to be the same on both carbs.

Good point about float level in the last section (three).... you know that may be why the lift trick does not give the same results at idle vs high rpm. From the results, the front carb would be richer at idle and have higher fuel. How do the plugs #2 and #5 compare after 5 min of idle and after 5 min of spirited driving? For your first section, I am thinking the new distributor may have issues transitioning. (possibly the breaker plate has broken). Maybe stick the old one on and compare has a quick check then watch your timing advance and return while hand-reving the engine. The problem could also be too much mechanical and vacuum advance in transition. Checking the timing while hand-reving should show what is happening. If you have two ZX distributors, take both apart and build one with the best parts from both. The fresh grease will smooth things out.

Wow that is cool and clever

I want first refusal if you ever sell it

megasquirt

Hmmm 5 speed transmission too? June 1970?

HLS30-00243... I wonder where it is? 244 is out there and here is #240

Seems dead now

I stomp when I walk and destroy shoes and boots.

Show us your shoes and I'll tell your something about the fuel gauge calibration There are one or two adjustments (flat screw driver through the back) on the fuel gauge .... two if I recall correctly. The gauge works by a heater/bimetal reed that swings between two contacts. You can adjust the amount of swing by turning the adjustments that bring the contacts closer or further apart. This in turn changes the heating duty cycle and the needle location.

WELCOME BACK! That is a nice re-entry.

bad pun On DCOE's, the main jet typically affects fuel delivery between cruise and max RPM. The Air corrector changes the non-linear behaviour of a/f to lean it out as max RPM is approached. Too large an air corrector will affect a/f lower in rpms and cause over-lean at high RPM's. If the fuel level is too high on DCOE's, the fuel in the main jet will be pulled too early/easily and over enrich the cruise A/F as well as the cruise to WOT. Changing mains will have little effect on the cruise A/F apart from taming the excess fuel at higher RPM's. Lowering fuel level and going with a larger main is one method for tuning the cruise-power transition.

I have similar Sketchers...

Convertibles required frame strengthening by welding box section rails under the floors as cutting the roof on a unibody would cause it to fold in the middle.

You can soak the differential air breather in a clear glass of peroxide on a sunny day to whiten it.

Ditto for me. All of the E31 performance heads were welded and shaped like peanuts. (Have a look at Frank Honsowetz's Book). It was an evolved shape that was apparently adapted by the 280ZX P79 & P90 (and other Nissan products I assume) as well as on the Maxima N47 heads.

Hmmmm Guy, are you expanding your herd?

Sadly there is no parts list. If you sir, felt the pioneering spirit, you could make a spreadsheet with component annotation and value, that would be a good start to reverse understanding the circuitry and useful for others making the trek.

I think the drk green 240z would look look neat with a set of yellow steel wheels for fun:

could be for emissions

Set fuel level using a clear hose connected to the bowl. It should be ~20mm down from the top lip of the fuel bowl. Measuring the tab and hanging amount of the float from the roof of the bowl is not as accurate.