240ZX

Chris, You may want to look through the archives to help you make a decision! Typically, front rotors are larger than rear rotors as they do more work than the rear. I highly recommend you do your homework before laying out the green backs. First you want to ask yourself what type of driving you intend to do with the Z....street or track or a combination of the two. Then there is the question of how much you are willing to pay. Don't forget that there are other upgradef to the brake system that can be made.....SS flex lines, possibly a proportioning valve, and maybe even upgrading the master cylinder!? Also, at some point you will be selecting pads.....which ones will fit your needs. Hope this helps a bit? Tom

I have to agree that the best combo for plugs/wires for an L6 are NGK/Magnacor. Regarding Splitfire plugs......nothing special, just cost you more $$$ for nada! I thought most people knew that the splitfire plug design is nothing more than an old idea that came from aircraft plugs. The multiple ground tabs, over the electrode, do nothing more than maintain a constant air gap. It's basically a reliablity issue. EMF is always going to follow the path of least resistance......spark will jump across the shortest gap. They will not provide you with an gains in performance....only lighten your wallet!

Sounds like its time to add a little more negative camber!

The Z appears to be a really nice and well done car......as long as you can live with the visual!!? It's probably worth more than the reserve but , anyone who has redone a Z can tell you you will not recoupe what you have invested. For me personnally, I'd repaint the sucker and put some better suspension, brakes, tires, and wheels.....and a 5 speed! The last time I saw green flames was along time ago at Christmas, when someone through some gift wrap in the fireplace and whala......green flames! Nice to look at in the fireplace but, not on a Z car!!! Just one man's opinion.

I believe you answered your own question......they are the same bolts.

Well, I'm no where near PA but, welcome aboard anyway! Yes there is a ton of info available here (also on the HYBRIDZ site) and a bunch of great folks to interface with. By using the "search function" you can find pretty much everything you could possibly imagine about the early Zs. Generally, when someone posts questions and haven't searched first, regular members will inform you about the search function. You being an engineer, should not have any issues providing DETAILED question....as undetailed question usually reap no answers. So again, welcome to Classic Zcar Club. Tom (240ZX)

Perry, Here's what I'd do if I were in your position. Purchase a shop service manual first off! It will have wiring diagrams showing all the wires/coding. Take a look at the starting circuit. It should provide you with enough information (as long as you have a good basic understanding of DC circuitry)to replace the original key start set-up to a manual power switch and start swithch. A test-light probe (for power on testing) and a continuity meter (one of the functions of an Ohm meter and for power off testing) will also be something you will want for this exercise. Hope this gets you pointed in the right direction! Tom

As Arnie mentioned, most of the aftermarket pumps are a diaphram type pumps and are noisy. A gear type pump is generally more expensive but quiet!

Matt & Jeff, You might consider purchasing the silver Panasports (the design you want, not the color) and polishing out the lips and painting or powdercoating the spokes to your liking! A little extra work but, you will wind up with exactly what you want.....and isn't that what its all about anyway?

I agree with Blake! I stopped buy stuff from them, well not all stuff, when during some research I discovered that a distributor MSA sells for almost $600 could be purchased from Summit for about $350! A 70% markup is a bit of a gouge in my book. And customer service is certainly lacking!!!

Well, life as you've known it is about to change.....Z sickness!!! Congratulations on your find. Let us know what you plan to do with her. You will become close friends with the rust monster....as you may keep finding it rearing it's ugly head! Just part of owning an early Z. Keep us posted Marty. P.S. Remember there is a search function that is the key to many many questions about the Z.

Me not being one who strives for 100% originality, plated my hood hinges. They look great....just a nice detail item! Regarding powder-coat, I would think that the thickness of the powder-coat might be a bit thick and may cause issues. Boy does this brings back memories.....getting all the parts together to take to the plater and then get back a bunch of bright and shinny parts! Just like Christmas.

Well, heres what I know. Basically, carb stacks provide better air-flow into the carb by reducing restrictions and providing increases in air velocity. Regarding which one is best, it all depends upon where, in the engines RPM, you want the benifits. Generally speaking, the shorter stacks provide the best effect at higher RPMs and the longer stacks provide the best effect at lower RPMs. FYI, I run the set of the stacks you have pictured, at the far right, with K&N filters. How much difference did it make? Couldn't tell you, as I have not done a comparison between running with and without them. I know from my engine induction experience, that any device that smooths out the air-flow into the carb is a benifit as opposed to having a sharp square edge that the air must flow over. Well, that what I know about stacks in a nut shell Hope it helps you to some degree!

One additional note......using heat to remove the recuctor is not a good idea, since heat can effect the strength of the magnatism in the reluctor......no magnatism, no trigger!

Do midgets count? Maybe 12 to 14 ! :stupid:

I think your source on that bit of info is slightly misinformed! The only one that has issues is the 260Z, because it came with the flat-top (boat anchor) carbs. Most people with the 260s just replace them with the round top SUs. By the way, SUs are quite simple to work on and tune.

I believe the badge on the rear of the hatch is a long one....TURBO 280ZX, as opposed to a short one that only has 280ZX! Hey, I could be all wet because I can't really read it, its too small. IIRC, didn't the turbo cars have that little blower unit that spands over the cam cover? In either case............made you look!!! Kidding of course!

Generally speaking, when you add white to black you get some shade of grey!

Certainly sound advise however, I don't think this site has a real issue compared to most other car sites. Many seem to be nothing more than forums for venting! When ever you deal with the general populous you're always doing to get all the fringe eliment.....I think you know what I mean. Again, your suggestions are good! It's good to see you are trying to improve things......a round of applause for Arne!

Currently, the stuff I have left over from the redo is in boxes in the garage. However, during the redo (started in 2000) my bedroom looked like a well stocked Z car goodie store! Actually made a path wide enough to get to the bed. Made for some interesting night visits to the can....ouch!

Well Jim, the question should be.....do you like them, cause you're the one who has to live with them. They do look good....maybe drop the Z and 1".

Put your glasses on and look at the pics again! :surprised

Yes! The least expensive unit (new) I've come across is from Precision Gear. Great folks to deal with. Visit their website and then give them a call. The LSD carrier is under $500. If your existing ring and pinion some how survived the diff failure, you may only have to replace the carrier.