gnosez

Plant it and they will hit....

Take everything you can get off these cars because if you left it there about 2 days or two weeks later you'll need it....

Dealer options are not considered "stock" as the ZCCA judging rules state stock to be as it came from the factory. You can have any non-stock part you want or remove it but you will have points deducted for doing so. Thems the rules....

I'll look under the hood next week and see what's there but I really doubt they used anything "bling" like the oil filler cap in a real race car. I know that neither the Tom Cruise, the 240/280 BSR or the 280ZXTT have any of these items on them. That said I need to check if the 240/280 engine had a BSR valve cover.

I believe the last numbers I saw for my euro dizzy, Pertonix and MSD 6AL were in the 32-34 range (total) above 3,000rpm. I've run this combo for 9 yrs now with no problems whatsoever.

I hope you get the old girl in better shape and have a try at an autocross or a track day. Your smile will get much wider....

I would suggest you powder coat the drip rail and door handles in a color you like.

Wheel bearing grease is much better than lithium in this application. Most racks have a grease fitting so you can just pump it in. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE RACK SCREW AS YOU CAN CAUSE THE STEERING TO STAY LOCKED IN ONE POSITION OR TURN AND NOT ALLOW THE WHEELS TO RETURN TO CENTER. Be very, very careful testing your redone rack out on the street. It might take a few tries before you get it just right. I say this because the man who's article you link to, nearly got us both injured when he tightened up my rack a bit too much.

What's your timeline for this effort? I will be going through all the paperwork and pictures from the BSR file cabinets in September in the hopes of digitizing anything related to Zs, Datsun/Nissan and BSR history.

Front wheel drive ecobox with good snow tires is the bext choice save a more expensive to buy and operate 4X4...

There was a Nismo 370 parked in the banquet room during ZCON 2010 in Nashville. I was asked to park my 240 in there as well since my Nissan gunmetal gray paint is a very close match (we added about 10% more flake). I too am not a fan of the 350 but the 370 is growing on me and after you drive a well sorted out (modified) 350 you really won't care what it looks like.

All S30 fenders are interchangeable (70-78). Doors (70-76) can be made to fit but you may need to swap out inner door parts. Doors (77-78) are a different breed. See more info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/77637-s-30-door-interchange/

100 microns for the Holley as I mentioned earlier. They also sell the same filter for use on lawnmowers (no EFI)....

The quality of FG pieces is dependent on the builder and the buyer. I have seen and sold FG parts that were good for racing (just barely) and others that were works of art. I have two sets of FG fenders in stock (Bad Dog Parts) and they are so completely different in quality and fitment I am amazed that they are serve the same function.

FG cracks, is lighter but doesn't dimple. It can be made into any shape you want (flares, etc.). Metal dimples, is stronger, a bit heavier, rusts. I use metal on my street 240 and FG on the track car.

Neither the Mallory or the Holley will be eaten up (I run a Mallory Comp 110 pump). The filter is on the suction side.

40 to 100 micron regardless of EFI or carbs....

Other than the lighter mass attached to the crankshaft allowing it to spin with less effort?

None that you can't work around. For most normal driving applications it doesn't matter but when you want to match rpm during downshifts say in a race or near race use sot hat you don't upset the balance of the car then you need to blip the throttle.

I run the Fidenza 240mm flywheel with a Centerforce II clutch in my 3.L NA 240 w/ZX 5-spd. I've had with no issues whatsoever and I drive it hard. The rpm drop off real quick with the lighter wheel so be forewarned. Not sure why you'd go with a stock clutch but if you don't get on it why not.

No. Can you verify the size and quality of said screen (a screen I have never seen myself)? Are you willing to trust your engine to said screen? Do you have the necessary emergency kit (in the car) if said screen fails to protect you (tools,spare parts, AAA card, cell phone)? These are the sort of questions that had BP actually raised them and considered a realistic response, that big old oil leak would likely not have happened. Similar to driving on the road or a race track, looking ahead is very important....

Here's a sampling of some parts I managed to survey yesterday: 1) 2 sets of 15X9 BBS wheels (one tire was never used and you can see which car it was assigned to) 2) E31 head CC'd, ported 3) 44mm mukinis w/ported intake 4) head duty front control arm (notice extra bracing for the larger sway bar) Hoping to find some FG bits for 240/280 cars once I can clear out all the FG bits for the 280ZXTT and get to them.

Thanks. My intent is not to over charge some one and since it's not even my part to get a reasonable price for the seller.

I am seeking some assistance in coming to an agreeable price for a 240 (70-72) front grille, still in the Nissan box. I realize that a 280 grille goes for about $225. and that it is the buyer's desire that can drive the price up. All that said, I'm just asking for some help to set a reasonable price. The item is already spoken for, we just need to come to terms.

The usual attendance is in the 275-350 range but all you need to do is look up each one of the past 5-10 conventions and email their respective club presidents. In 2003 we had just under 400. Build your business plan on a lower number so that you make your nut early on. Don't over buy trinkets and junk, watch for all the "comp" costs and try and get payments in early.