Bambikiller240

, Question is, what are you going to do now that we are here! (do any of these words sound familiar?)

Of course not. Just that you might be happier if you didn't have to "WORK" so hard reading things that aren't worth reading. Your diaper rash might go away too.

So, take a break.

Nothing. I don't need to. I hope you find a sandbox more to your liking.

So, it's not worth reading, but it interests you? :stupid:

How enlightened you are. I wonder what the country did before you got here.

If this thread doesn't interest you, there are thousands of others for you to view that might be more to your liking. I don't think you were promised that everything would suit you.

10mm Flare nut wrench, or vice grips. (use something else besides WD40) or I have taken a 10mm box end wrench, cut the box off of it, then cut a "small" gap into the box. (so it is similar to the end of a flare nut wrench but thinner, & more flexible) I then put that piece on the fitting and use vice-grips to clamp the "box" down tight and loosen the fitting. It works pretty good, but the "box" will eventually break (I've gotten as many as 20 uses out of one of these)

The show is being rebroadcast on the 13th I believe. Check your local listings

Twin Tower had nothing to do with Iraq. That is a fact. If that is what we are fighting about, we should have attacked Saudi Arabia. Oh wait, we aready get their oil.

http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html

$1800 to $2200 is ball park in my experience (CA prices) with a 240Z motor rebuild. Except for the EFI there isn't much difference between the engines in terms of rebuilding.

Rick: I am afraid that I don't remember that movie, but I may have seen it. Ther are alot of things from that era that I've forgotten. Looks like Will, Stephen and the others have cover the Yank slang thoroughly, I can't think of one they've missed.

Rick: I appologize, Ididn't post as a one-upmanship attempt. Just to add to the Xmas humor data base. Your joke is as funny to me as the photo's. I hope that you'll post more of them.

And my 11/71 mfg'd Z also came with shoulder belts.

I'll have to watch it again. I didn't notice the Auto trans. I was doing other stuff while watching, guess I missed that. I was surprised to see Joe Demers and Les Canaday on the show.

I hope to never be programmed. 1984 won't catch up with me, no siree bob! Logic would seem to dicatate that (since this thread is about DOT safety standards) that an accident in OHIO involves the same safety issues as one in CA, the same forces generated, etc. I cannot see how there should be any difference.

Centerforce 1 starts out as a basic clutch, but it has been modified to have the ring of weights that add extra clamping force as RPM rise. I have one and it is an improvement over the Daiken clutch I had from MSA. I love it. No experience with the Centerfroce 2 Attachment shows Centerforce 1 box with picture of the weight ring attached to the fingers of the P/P. As centrifugal forces build the weights cause the P/P to grip the disc tighter and tighter (30% tighter). Centerforce 1 Clutch

Ahnold isn't much expert on anything (except grabbing hooters and butts). I was referring to the only one who was saying what CA needs (without having any real concept of what's going on here).

The Club hats were not made for us to our specs. They are a stock hat manufactured for Port Authority. I feel confident that they had much more control over the hat than we could ever expect to arrange for our product. The Embroidery was designed/manufactured for us. (and quite well I might add). Just to be clear. I would love for the OEM wiring to be reproduced. But only if built by people who know what they are doing, who "have skin in the game" and care about how the end result will perform in their own car.

OK, Mike. I should have said EXTREME PRICE (as in what they are charging) the "COST" is indeed quite something else. certainly it is relatively easy to manufacture, but they also assume some liability for the performance of the product My point about the "versions" (and this should be obvious to anyone) is that the cost of having harnesses manufactured is more expensive per unit when you are having only a few made vs having hundreds made. There are a lot of variations to be considered and a relatively small market for each. This thread discussion was about us (members) having harnesses made in China. (India wouldn't be much if any better) Who is going to invest the money to have this done? Customer Pre-orders? A CZC soda can collection drive? How many people will actually pay in advance for an item that hasn't been made (not just say they will do so, but actually pony up the bucks months in advance) without having any guarantee of receiving a quality item? Who will guarantee the "investors" money is not wasted or lost? GM, or Buick, or Calloway setting up a plant in China, or arranging for production in an existing plant in China is FAR different than a loose-knit group of entusiasts making the same arrangements. They will have agents on site to look out for their interests Who's gonna make the arrangements for us, who will arrange the manufacture, who will ensure the product is built to spec (not just the sample, but the production), who will handle the shipment, export/import docs/tariff? All this talk of us contracting to have anything made 1/2 way around the world is just wanking off. Drunken: There may not be significant differences in wire lengths or connectors between RHD and LHD cars, but the wrapping and routing of wires into a loom will be dramatically different. IMO This idea for a project is one that is best left to enthusiasts with lots of time and dedication, or to people with lots of money to fling around the world (China)

Ah, yes. China, world recognized as the leader in quality manufacturing.

Will, I have that one. (Ho, Ho, F'ing Ho....) Also have the Elves FARTING the "10 Days of Christmas" song. JIB-JAB, gotta love 'em.

Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 06:51:35 -0600 From: Carl Beck <beck@becksystems.com> Subject: RE: <280> Windshield Seal Replacement >> Also, is there one available that doesn't have the grooves for the >> Stainless trim? >Scott Bruning wrote: >Nope. Can't buy it anymore. Sorry. Hi Scott (everyone): And in IMHO it is a good thing that a windshield gasket isn't available without the grooves for the stainless trim. The reason being that it's not "just" trim... it's a brace to keep the gasket from folding in the wrong direction and letting the windshield pop out. Due to the high-pressure area inside the first generation Z Cars - that windshield gasket is glued in place not to help seal it but to keep it from popping out at high speed. The stainless trim is critical to maintaining the correct form in the gasket. If you are driving around with yours missing - don't drive above 80 MPH and for sure don't roll down a window ;-(... I'd never disagree with Scott... but now that I've watched at least five professional glass installers do the front windshields on first generation Z's... and I've tried it myself ;-(... I will tell you this... They all put the gasket on the windshield, then put the stainless trim in place in the gasket (while one can still flex it open).... next they wrapped the cord around the groove in the gasket (to pull the inner lip inside the car) - - then they put the glue on the outer edge of the gasket and popped it into the car. When I ask them all about the process - they all said the same thing.. "if you wait to put the stainless trim on after you have the gasket and windshield in place on the car - you'll never get in on without bending the hell out of it - or tearing the outer lips of the gasket"... It's there to keep the outer edges of the gasket from flexing the wrong way - it doesn't prevent you from putting the windshield in - it prevents the windshield from popping out.” FWIW, Carl Hi Scott (everyone): Glad you mentioned that "dishwashing liquid" - I forgot a "step" in the process. Just before they sat the windshield on the car - they sprayed the rubber gasket with soapy water to lubricate it and make it slide/pop in easier. good luck, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL IZCC #260

I've been told that it is best installed on the seal before the glass is put in place.