Bambikiller240

Our pump prices just went down a dime a gallon. Now we ONLY pay $2.39 for 87 octane and $2.63 for 91 octane.

Just guessing, but maybe it is to encourage "mingling". Another possiblility is that most other shows do not have the shear volume of entries that MSA draws. The logistics of arranging cars with a limited number of people running the show, and getting all the cars into the show in an extremely short timespan would make that job a bear to handle. I do understand your point though, as I have ZERO interest in most of the post 1978 cars entered.

Someone tell me again how the oil companies are our friends and how they don't take advantage of circumstances to rape the public at large. Ya, Right........and pigs FLY!

You didn't search very well. www.zhome.com

Did the Funnybone section move?

Set the timeing to the factory spec, then try adjusting your carbs. When I rebuilt my engine last year I had similar problems. It turned out to be that the carbs were out of adjustment and could not supply the rebuilt engine's needs. A quick tune of the SU's and the problem went away.

Start for WHAT? a fishing expedition? Anyone would have better luck using Google and typing in "Window Defroster". (I did it) http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=Window+Defroster

Someone asked the seller aboutthese parts and he replied, claiming they are from a 72 240Z. I have never seeen them on any of the 240Z's that I've owned or worked on. They look slightly similar to the hinge socks (which would be rubber, not plastic) for the hatch hinges, but with such a crappy picture, it is impossible to be sure. I think the seller is clueless also. He's also selling a set of hood hinges fitting 69 thru 80"s Z Car 69 thru 80's Hood Hinges

Not only that, but most of the Hooters Girls make pretty decent money with tips and all. At least more than the dyke in the photo that probably works in a Dil*o shop

The ones I've seen on eBay tend to go for $250 - $300, though it has been a while since I was following prices on them. (used, of course) If a guy could find a Diesel Maxima in a boneyard he could get one for a lot cheaper though. Guess it all depends on how "resourceful" a buyer is as to what it is worth to him.

Vicky: They are still out there. Thrush is sold by Dynomax, and Cherry Bomb is sold by Maremont. What I used to get a kick out of was the boneheads who would take the Logo Sticker included with every muffler and apply it to the Muffler after installation! :stupid:

Now I am confused. The wiring diagram from Enrique seems to show the meter (red lines) testing across the BLACK lines. Yes? No? If YES, how does testing the BLACK line that relate to the BLUE line at all, since the BLUE line doesn't appear to be connected to anything? (meter or BLACK lines)

:stupid: That is as false of a statement as I've ever heard. You may not like Drifting, but is most certainly is NOT driving in a straight line.

Impressive driving! That Mini "Stoppy" looked like fun!

Not to mention your neighbors.

Where EXACTLY do these hoses you are looking to identify start and end? Do they start at the Carb Float bowls and go to the Air Cleaner? Do they start at the Flow Guide Valve (on the inner fender below the coil) and go to the Air Cleaner? In either case they are NOT vacuum hose, they are fuel/oil rated. The hose from the Flow Guide Valve and from the Float Bowls to the Air cleaner are not available from Nissan (Chloe searched for over 2 months trying to get some for me) The hoses were originally a METRIC sized hose (naturally), but 1/4" ID hose will work fine for the Float Bowl to Air Cleaner, but will not look OEM as Nissan used hoses that had much thinner wall thickness ( and no reinforcing cord) than what is available currently. Sorry, I don't have my original hoses. They were so brittle from age that I couldn't use them, and Chloe couldn't find OEM stock, so I tossed them and used generic 1/4" modern hoses. I found OEM hose for the Flow Guide to Air Cleaner at a Junk Yard that wasn't in too bad of shape.

Well, at least you know more of how to get it all apart again to fix that leak. Like the tools/precedure to get that frickin bolt loose. Clean ALL the gasket surfaces perfectly, use new, undamaged gaskets and a thin film of sealant, and most of all......work slow and careful every step of the way & your care will be back on the road in no time.

I reposted the attachments with labels inserted into the images.

I'm not real sure, but I was told that the change came with the 260Z.

These pics illustrate the differences between early and late "Datsun" script. As for DATSUN Fender emblems, the Microfiche CD shows only one part and lists a quantity of 2 required per vehicle. PN# 63805 - E4600, superceded to PN #63805 - E4601 for Production to 07/73. I have never seen a "LEFT slant" DATSUN fender emblem & microfiche seems to confirm that it doesn't exist. At least for North American models.

I think it means no one should drop the soap near you. Just Kidding.

AFAIK, you cannot get the diaphram separately. In the USA, almost any Parts Store can ge the pumps. An NISSAN OEM pump would be quite expensive compared to an OEM equivilant from a parts store.

Diaphram inside the pump is shot. Buy a new pump