Bambikiller240

On my 72 240Z, this symptom was just the beginning. Soon other turn signal lights failed to operate. Cleaning the turn signal switch inside the steering collumn helped temporarily, but soon the symptoms returned. Finally, I had to bite the bullet and buy a new turn signal switch.....at a cost of about $100. Allof the current for the turn signals is channeled throught the switch and carbon build-up and age takes it's toll. There have been several threads about this on the IZCC list over the years. You MAY be able to dis-assemble the switch to thoroughly clean the innerds, but it must be done with care, or the tabs that hold the switch together will break and then you are truely screwed and will have to buy a replacement switch. Good Luck Carl

After pulling the head, I think you should be able to shine a flashlight down inside the front cover and see if the tensioner has popped back into it's correct position, or is out of place. If you've been able to get your screwdriver handle all the way down past the tensioner, you should be OK. Keep your fingers crossed! :classic: & Good Luck! PS: Did the Cam Gar bolt loosen by itself or was the engine opened up by a shop when you had the poor performance issue from the bad gas resolved? Bad Luck? or Bad Work?

Are you possibly talking about the Anti-Backfire Valve fitted for emissions reasons? If so, it came on most 240Z's. It's purpose is to momentarily (VERY momentarily, nowhere near 5 seconds!) keep the throttle open to minimize the dumping of excess raw fuel into the engine when shifting gears, etc. On the other hand, maybe it is a 260Z emissions deal, and was left in place when someone replaced the 240Z intake manifold with an N36 (or is it N33) 260Z Intake. The 240Z should have and E88 intake unless it is a VERY early (70 or early 71 model) mfg car. Can you upload a picture of what you have? That would help folks to identify it for you.

The hoses that MSA sells are manufactured by Earl's Performance http://www.earlsperformance.com/html/index.htm and though the hoses are not D.O.T. approved, they are high quality units. I've used these MSA sold lines on several 240Z's and have never had a failure. They just do not have the "whip dampner" feature of their "HYPERFIRM" Line of products refered to in the quote below. "The Teflon / stainless steel brake hoses have not been available for legal use on street driven vehicles until recently. All safety- related components on street vehicle must meet stringent requirements and tests set forth by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration of the U.S. Department of Transportation. The most demanding test for brake hoses is the "whip test", designed to simulate the continuous flexing of the hoses during suspension and steering movement. Until Earl's developed and patented their exclusive "whip dampener", Teflon / stainless steel hoses were not able to pass this extremely rigorous test. The D.O.T. does not "approve" any products. It calls out specifications and tests procedures that the components must meet. The manufacturers then self-certify that they are in compliance. The D.O.T. mat randomly require that components be tested by an independent certified laboratory selected by the D.O.T. If D.O.T. approval is something you need to have for peace of mind, take those back and buy custom manufactured hoses from an Earl's distributor, or AeroQuip, or Russell's, or Goodridge. They will cost more because they've had to pay the significant costs for testing to meet D.O.T. requirements.

Amen! Drain the Tank First! There is a drain plug at the bottom, center of the stock gas tank. Drain the gas into a bucket, then drop the tank. You'll be glad you did!

just make sure that your projects, are HER projects; or at least that your projects come first! :stupid:

A cracked block would be very unlikely. If the motor got HOT, the aluminium head would probably crack long before the cast iron block would crack. Still, if you have reason to believe that the motor got very hot or suspect a bottom-end problem, it is better to do all of your checking before spending major money on the engine. 2ManyZs has given you good advice on what and how to check the engine.:classic:

A guy in Canada is selling a fibreglass G-nose "kit" on eBay. Actually it is a one piece deal. I'm not connected with the seller in any way, just mentioning it in case anyone is looking for something like this piece. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6766&item=1876130223 PS: I like Airdams

Gavin: In the USA they cost about $20 USD for an OEM hose, or for a few dollars more (around $25 USD total) you can get an stainless steel braided Replacement hose. They are available at Motorsport Auto. The OEM hose can also be bought at any Nissan dealer here. Both the OEM and Stainless hoses have metal fittings on each end, so you can't buy plain hose and trim to fit. You need to buy the correct part. :beard: Get a proper wrench or one day soon you'll bugger up a flarenut completely, and then you'll find out how difficult it is to get brake or clutch metal lines!:disappoin

If you've noticed that much rust without a thorough inspection of the car, I'd be concerned. If at all possible, I'd have one of your buddies from the body shop inspect it COMPLETELY. Also, open the rear hatch and look for rust there, and in the bottom of the spare tire well. Both are notorious places for MAJOR RUST to hide. Rust repair is a VERY good way to spend a TON of time and money. Just my $.02, but a seller who is not co-operative or forthcoming with information is someone I'd RUN AWAY from in a heartbeat. There is no crime in not knowing the answer to a question, but it sounds fishy that he doesn't know much about the car, but someone else at the shop tells you that "Eva place supposedly did that to all their cars". Can't have it both ways, either they know about the car or NOT. Just remember, whatever they tell you is from the standpoint of a seller (salesman talk = BullShit!); not from the standpoint of the guy who will be paying for any and all repairs once the title is in YOUR NAME. Caviat Emptor!! (Buyer Beware!!!!) As you said, You may not have much else to spend your money on, but most guys in the Army don't make so much money that they can afford to throw Thousands down the drain! It's best to go into this possible purchase with your eyes wide open, knowing exactly what you'll be faced with. PS: Sounds like you've been bitten by the "Z" bug. and want one in the worst way. BUY WITH YOUR MIND, NOT YOUR HEART, or you'll end up with the WORST CAR!!

I don't know who makes the Urethane airdams, but they replace all 3 pieces of the factory valance. An airdam will at least minimize the lift or "float" that is inherent (at speed) in the stock front end. Check the "Links" Section of this site for Z car Businesses that offer body panels.

Alan is one of, if not THE the most knowledgable person on the list, especially regarding non-USA models of Z-cars. Give him all the info. that you can find and listen to what he tells you. It is gospel! Thanks for jumping in Alan. Since I don't really know you, I hesitated to refer Phoenix_400 directly to you, but you are the person I had in mind in my earlier post. Happy New Year! :classic:

Check it over very well for things such as RUST under the battery tray, inner fender wells, rocker panels, and rear wheel arches and the rear hatch area. $1000 is cheap for a Z car, but only if it doesn't need $5000 in repairs to make it road worthy. The VIN is on an ID tag on an inner fender. There are several people living in Europe who frequent this club that can tell you what you have, with the correct VIN # info.

Derk: The link below is for Alden Wrenches. This is what I use. It's an open-end wrench that grips tighter as you apply more force. Very easy to use and I've had ZERO problems with rounded flare nuts on my hydraulic lines. You can buy them at many parts stores or on-line. You can get a 3 piece set. I borrow the 3-piece set from a friend and IMO they are great. :classic: http://www.aldenwrench.net/index.htm

................and the other one was Jetho Bodine's brain-dead :dead: brother! :cheeky:

biker: I don't know anything about a 240C. Never heard of it actually, but if the engine is 2.4L and it is a mechanical fuel pump needed, I'd think that the number of carbs would not have much to do with the total amount of fuel pressure and volumn needed to run a given displacement engine. 2.6L is 2.6L no matter what. It's still gonna burn the same amount of fuel with minor variation for differing efficiency of carb(s). Why doesn't the dealer have any info on 240Z's? I thought that the were imported to Oz by Nissan and would be supported by the dealers? If you have to, I'm sure you can get a fuel pump for an L26 sent from Motorsport Auto in USA. Or someone in the Club could get one here in the US and ship it to you. Maybe I'm completely clueless about the challenges you folks in OZ face with Z's, but it's hard to imagine that there isn't a fuel pump for an L24/L26 in the whole country.:cross-eye

If the Urethane bushings that you bought specify that the casing be left in place I WOULD NOT assemble without it. You will have a "clunk" from that location if you do. If you have to, buy a new OEM bushing and press it into place, then burn out the rubber. Only assemble without the casing if the instructions with the Urethane kit specifies to remove the casing. If you do this wrong, you WILL regret it, I can assure you! Don't ask how I know.:stupid: The key thing to remember about 2ManyZs post is that his Urethane bushings "would not fit inside the sleeve". If yours do fit, YOU NEED the sleeve. Most bushing kits currently sold do require the sleeve (casing) to be left in place. They will be a tight fit (they need to be!), but they will fit. For future reference, if you do this job again on another car, just use a propane torch to heat the outer metal area of the mustache bar surrounding the old OEM bushing just until it begins to catch fire. Stop immediately and use a big hammer to "tap" the bushing. It will fall out leaving the casing in perfect condition. This is really an easy method and is safe when done OUTSIDE and with a bit of care. You should have a bucket of water nearby to put the old rubber into after it falls out.

.........run them down (several times) with a bastardized classic !!:angry: :stupid: anything else would be too good for them

I seem to remember that 240Z's were invited or "allowed" (whatever) at last years event. I believe there was a thread about that on either the IZCC mail list or maybe it was the 240.org mail list last summer

Rick: I'm not sure if they have any other car shows in Reno, but THE one that they are famous for having is in August of each year. Called HOT AUGUST NIGHTS. See http://www.hotaugustnights.net/ for information. Also, here's a link to the Reno.com website http://www.reno.com/apps/pbcs.dll/frontpage Enjoy your trip!

Interesting that a "modern, visionary statement that celebrates our future" ends up looking so much like an uninteresting copy of the designs of other carmakers. i.e. Audi TT, etc To bad they didn't decide to break new ground and come up with something more original, like the Solstice, or at least something that set the car apart from the competition. While the 240Z took design elements from other cars, the "complete package" set the car far apart from the competition. IMHO THAT was a "visionary statement" that served Nissan very well. Guess they have to learn that lesson all over again.:disappoin

Amen to THAT Brother kmack!

Check the link below for information on build dates as supplied by owners registering their cars on the site. Should be able to get a good estimate of when your car made it off the line. www.ZHome.com

Use the link below and under Vehicles, click on 350Z. That will take you to a page where you can "design and locate" a 350Z. Follow the links and you'll get to a page that shows the color chips and when you point at each chip, the name of the color will appear. http://www.nissanusa.com/ I won't bother to ask why you'd want one of those colors. Different strokes for different folks, I guess :stupid: PS The blue is kinda nice, but there are SO many other colors to be found elsewhere.

Bri: I had a Mallory Dual-Point Dizzy on a 2.0L OHC Ford Pinto, and it had the "normal" method of adjusting the points. I haven't actually seen one on a Z-Car, but I'd certainly expect it to be the same. If you were talking about the Mallory "Uni-Lite" Distributor, there would not be any points at all in there. Hope that helps. Carl