Bambikiller240

Looks like Jed Clampett and Jethro Bodine tried to make a Home-built replica of an IMSA Z. :sick: They failed!

The bodywork on this Z is very reminisient of the IMSA GTU and GTO Z's of the late 70's and early 80's (if any of you are old enough to remember them). I actually like the style when a nicely designed paint scheme is added. I'm not sure how functional this is for a street machine, what with curbs, speed-bumps, and potholes to contend with, but I do like the lines. Am I the only one old enough to remember these "bad Z boys" of IMSA? Man, they they kicked arse in their day. Casey Mollett, Frank Carney, Frank Leary, Brad Frisselle, Walt Maas, Don Devendorf, George Alderman, Bob Sharp, Paul Newman, and Sam Posey. Come On guys, tell me I'm not the only old fart on the list! :disappoin

66_GT_FB: Welcome to the Show! Classics are classics! More than a few of us like the early 'Stangs as well as early Z's. Both were ahead of their time, and are designs that are still visually pleasing even after 30+ years. Yes there are a few of us Bay Area folks hanging around here. I'm in Pleasanton. Where are you located? Welcome to the Classic Z Club! Carl

You are most welcome! One thing to keep in mind is that when this mount is broken, it is allowing the drivetrain to move around in that area more than the rest of the components are designed to withstand. It can cause the "limiter strap" (that goes over the front of the differential) to be be stretched so that it cannot do its job (even after the mount is replaced). Also it can put extra stress on the rear set of U-joints on the driveshaft. If you can get one, I wouldn't wait too long to address the issue. You have a very nice car , keep it that way.:classic: Just my $.02 Carl PS It's fairly easy to replace, if you have a little experience.

Hi George: That is your Front Differential mount. A notorious weak link in the 240Z drivetrain. It absolutely WILL cause a clunk as the clutch is engaged and/or as you shift gears. I do not recommend getting one from a wrecker. You're liable to end up with one in similar condition. Get a new unit. They are readily available in the US, so I assume (?) that they should be available in OZ. Cost here is around $40 USD The "Moustache bar" is the common name for the REAR Differential mount. It's almost 4 feet (slightly more than a Meter long) and is attached to the Differential by two bolts. The bushings are at the extreme ends of the bar where it attaches to the body of the car.

Just what I need...........another $40 a month (at least) sucked from my budget just because some website developer wants me to experience all of his bells and whistles! :tapemouth Just give me information! I don't need the "frosting" on the cake! It's hard enough to fund all of my Z wants & needs and everything else that comes up. Of course, if someone wants to buy it for me.........(I still wouldn't want the "frosting"!) Just my opinion (I have a million of them)

Chris: Only one problelm with the rent a tow vehicle idea.........99.9% of rental companies would not rent anything to a 16 year old. You'd need to have someone over 25 rent the vehicle in their name and drive it. Finding a good car out here isn't terribly difficult and there are many of us who live out here who can inspect a vehicle for your consideration. There are also professionals who can inspect a Z for you. http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/ has a few cars that might meet your requirements right now. There are other online places to look as well. http://classicdatsun.com/fs/index.html has one listed that you might look at as well. Good Luck in your search! Carl

Don't drive it in the winter if they put salt on the roads. It will get eaten alive! That is why you don't see many Z's left (except on the West Coast). Your investment will deteriorate severely if exposed to road salt. Most people in the N. East park their Z's at the first hint of winter and don't bring them out until spring for this very reason.

There are a few places that can get many parts for 240Z's. Some parts are getting harder to find, but most normal wear items such as brakes and struts (shocks) etc are still available from several sources. here's a few links for your consideration. http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ Richardson, Texas Great Dealership, Good Discount to Members of Z Car Clubs. http://www.zcarparts.com/ MotorSport Auto in Los Angeles, CA Great Service, Prices can be High on some items. http://www.victoriabritish.com/ Somewhere in Kansas Not the best service, but good prices. There are other places, but these three are the most widely known. There are individuals who run small businesses also that cater to the 240Z crowd and they can get parts for you also: Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com Troy Thacker at http://www.datsunrestore.com/ Bob Zola at http://www.cybersanford.net/ to name just a few. HTH Carl

I don't suppose that you confirmed that the Transmission input shaft will fit into the pilot bearing / bushing before you installed the bearing/bushing? Just wondering if maybe the parts guy gave you the wrong one? I've always had some difficultly getting the trans fully mated to the engine with the trans supported by my arms and chest. Now that I'm older and lazier, I rent a transmission jack for this. I don't think that "I" would do as you plan with trying to force the transmission into place, but that's just me. I'm anal about things like that.

Alphadog: I agree with your hypothisis. Now that sounds like a more reasonable and realistic situation.

If I had a choice of either ( the existing 350Z or this concept Rustang) as grand prize in a sweepstakes.............. I'd toss a coin, because I'd be selling either one and buying 2 really nice 240Z's. A restored original and a V8 conversion similar to Pete Paraska's beauty.

I've always just coated it with a bit of grease and tapped it into place in the end of the crankshaft.

I understand that we are conversing with people of different countries. However, I believe that we were refuting the claim that "Volvo INVENTED Hazzard lights in 1972 ". Now they may have introduced them in some country or other in 1972, but they certainly didn't INVENT them in 1972.

I have never seen that concept before, but THAT IS WHAT A Z IS SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE!!!!!!!! Sure wish someone in Nissan had the smarts to build this car. Assuming it didn't end up overweight like the 350Z, I'd hock my eye teeth to buy one.

I'd have to agree with Michael on this one....looks like an Explorer that has been "pancaked" at the salvage yard. Next stop for this one should be the smelter.:sick: :sick: Note to FORD: Toss this idea, and start over with a clean sheet of paper!

I'm not so sure about Volvo's claim to have "invented" Hazard lights in 1972. The 1971 240Z that I previously owned (US Spec) had the toggle type of Hazard light switch (rather than the push/pull switch found on 1973 240Z's). Of course Datsun may have been so forward thinking back then that they actually stole it from Volvo before Volvo invented it! :stupid:

Nigel: Somewhere buried in my old photo's I have a similar picture of a rabbit. No picture of the "bambi" than earned my car her name though. (too painful of a memory for me).

ZwolleY: Ben said that he "replaced" the clock with a boost guage. A Boost guage shows the amount of "boost" (added air pressure) a Turbocharger is pumping into an engine to make horsepower. :classic: If the clock works outside of the car, next step is to check the wiring in the car to make sure that A. there is power to the clock. and B. that the ground wire that plugs into the clock actually is connected to a good ground. Once those two things have been confirmed, the clock SHOULD work in the car. Although, from what Ben experienced I guess that's not always the case. Good Luck and let us know what you find. Carl

(major snip by Carl) How sure are you that the clock was functional when you bought / got it? Never assume! Have you tried to test the clock with an alternate power source? I'd start there.

Merry Christmas! Pardon my ignorance, but can you clarify "Orthadox" for me? Must be pretty cool to have a BBQ for Christmas! WOW, very nice. Are those SU's chromed? Also, the "tube" from the bottom of the float bowls to the red cap at the fuel nozzle appears to be metal. Is it? If so, how does that allow for the nozzles to move downward when the choke lever is operated? In the US that tube is a ugly black silicone rubber hose. I like the look of your set-up much better!

Duplicate Thread!:classic: See: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5025&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

I MAY have seen that too. It sort of sounds familiar, but I have no experience with it. Carl

Naw, just count your blessings!. On my first 240Z (a 73 back in the mid to late 70's) I didn't use anything but the shims either and never had a problem, though I knew people who did have Squeal problems. I wouldn't be surprised if the quality of manufacture and the pad friction material has a lot to do with it.

Keith: I think that it is undercoating that we see in that picture. I do not recall the car having that when I saw it at the 2001 MSA Z Car Nationals (though I could be wrong). My personal preference is for the underside to be black, I think it looks much nicer that way. I'm doing the POR bit on my car's underside (inside as well) and will Topcoat with their ChassisCoat Black product. Carl