Bambikiller240

BINGO!!!!! (Now THAT is a garden hose for ya, Frank)

Respectfully, I believe that you are wrong. A little more research will show you that. Have you tried www.zhome.com as a start on in depth research to back up that statement? Baby-Boomers WERE the market back in the day. Who else was in the car buying world "back in the day"? Little old ladies? Well, you would have seen them in Z's also. Why do you think 240Z's have remained relatively cheap, and plentiful all these years? Because so many people have been satisfied with them and have kept them all these years. Marketing, plain and simple marketing. Attaching your product to the coat-tails of one of the most successful products of the 20th century automotive world gives the appearance of credibility. Marketing Wonks will do ANYTHING to sell their product. It's their job. We must have a different defintion of "sports car" than you do This is true. you are being converted from the dark side. You say re-introduced......had you ever driven/owned one before? If so, why did you need re-introduction? What about it didn't you like, prior to the "re-introduction"? perhaps you mean "appreciation" when you say "respect"? Respect is earned over the long haul, usually on the race track or in sales success. Only time will tell, on both fronts. I believe that we have a different idea of what being a Z means. To many of us that will be in name only, as it does not do for us what the original Z did/does. I don't know how old you are, but those of us around "back in the day" know that the 240Z literally took the country (maybe even the world) by storm. Waiting lists were many months long, and if you wanted a Z, you either took the car the dealer offered you, regardless of color; or you didn't get a Z. There was always someone else there who would accept the car being offered. The faults of the 350Z are there for us to see (from our perspective) and Yes, that Mustang bashing is fun, but you get tired of it quickly. Only time will tell how long 350Z bashing will be fun.

So ALL the people who don't respect it haven't driven it? C'mon This subject has been discussed ad nausium on the 240.org mail list and the consensus of the people there, many of which have driven the car (on the road and/or on the track) is that it is there is nothing "Z" about it either. It is no conincidence that so many people more knowledgable people on the mail list indicate that after looking at the 350Z, that they'd buy a G35 Coupe instead

Back to your inquiry about manuals, a JH HAYNES manual is a valuable resouce in addition to the FSM. I prefer my Haynes manual to a chiltons, but the Chilton manual does have a few photo's and diagrams that are quite helpful and not found anywhere else. Also the Parts CD sold by the club contains the complete Nissan Parts microfiche for 1970-1978 Datsun 240/260/280Z. It has great exploded diagrams of just about every system and sub-system in the vehicle, and the part numbers necessary to make sure you get the right parts ordered.

Well, the HONDA S2000 comes pretty darn close to being a true sports car for me! Amen Brother Alfapup!

These must be somewhat different from the MSA S/S line that Ed and I have purchased from MSA. For one thing they must have a different fitting on one end to thread "into" the caliper, and secondly they must by longer than the standard S/S lines offered as P/N#24-5121. I think it would be ciool to eliminate that "S" tube.

Holly: Glad you took the comment (and the cartoon?) in the humorous nature it was intended. Hopefully you will consider posting your pic to our Member Mugshots Photo Gallery, and don't forget to post pics of your car to your own gallery here, if you haven't done so already.

The lock ring IS available and is priced quite cheaply, IMO. After 30 years of exposure to fuel, and moisture, I would recommend replacing the sender unit as well. It's not real cheap, but not real expensive either. It's never going to be easier to put everything right than when you have the tank out of the car. FWIW,

Sorry, I forgot to put this in my earlier post. If you need tires, here's how to have them delivered. Chino240Z's UPS Delivery

Ahhh, the romance continues.................. frank13 & sweetgrrl, I'm just teasing, don't take it wrong, OK? A couple of pictures from you two would clear it all up!

Kroil (or Sili-Kroil) gets my highest reccomendation also. The Sili-Kroil version has (obviously?) Silcone as an additional ingrediant and works minor miracles. The stink of PB Blaster gets to me also

If you have a pre-73 Z car you probably don't have a "timing tab" with a "0" mark. What you will see is a "pointer" attached to the timing cover of the engine, and several notches in the couter edge of the crankshaft damper/pulley. If that is what you have, looking down as you stand in front of the car, the biggest and deepest notch is TDC and should be the one all the way to the left. The space between each notch = 5 degrees of crankshaft timing, the the 5th notch (the one all the way to th right) = 20 degrees BEFORE TDC. If you ahve a hard time seeing the notches, take a piece of white chalk or white crayon and rub it over the notches to make them stand out. Set timing according to the specs in your manual. (you do have a manual, don't you?)

Funny, here you are likely to find the turkey inside the Police car. just kidding, Smokey.

Nothing "wrong" with it. Just that the other products mentioned are far superior as penetrating oils. IMHO.

Put some ANTI-SEIZE on the new bolts before you install them.

Pentrating Oil, lots of Penetrating Oil. Sili-Kroil, P-B Blaster, Tri-Flow, anything except WD-40 Put two nuts on the remaining portion of the bolt. Lock them together and use your wrench on the bottom (lower) nut to CAREFULLY back it out. Don't thread the nuts down the bolt too far, in case you shear the bolt again you'll have some threads left to try another method

I had always heard that saying about it being best to not try to avoid a deer standing in the road when i was going up. When I asked the logical "WHY?" question, I was told that you're less likely to die from hitting the deer than from swerving into a tree or mountain-side whilst trying to avoid the deer. Someone else told me that (at night) the deer will follow your headlights when you suddenly swerve and you'll hit them anyway. I don't know if any of this is true, but that is what "old timers" told me when I was a kid. ZVoiture, Do those "deer horns/sirens" really work? Thought you might know since you grew up in major deer country.

I fully support the idea of making one's car really YOUR CAR. Mod it however one wants to do, I say. I haven't followed what modds Mr. 26thZ plans for the car except that he's got the Wats. I wonder how the value of the car (since it's such a low vin) would be affected by any modds. I don't know, I just wonder. "Traditional mods" do take away from "originality" Can't have both, right. Need two Z's, one for originality, one for self expression.

I suspect the Carl Becks opinion is STRONGLY influenced by the extremely low serial number of the car.

Doing those things will probably fix the issue with your car. If not, it will let you know that there is something that needs adjustment or replacemnt. Like the carbs themselves, or perhaps a weak fuel pump, or whatever. Do Simple and Cheap things first, then more to more complicated things. Step, by step.

Why? Do you have one in your freezer?

Step one would be the regular air filter and the fuel filter on the right side inner fender. The fuel filters in the banjo fittings of the carbs are "usually" less of a problem. First things I'd do would be: Replace the mentioned filters, change oil and oil filter, and do a complete tune-up including new spark plugs, points (if the car still has them) Dist cap and Rotor, and set the ignition timing to specs. Also. set the choke (pull the choke lever) and then reach under the carb"s" (with the air filter removed) and spray some WD40 or other good lubricant on the choke nozzles (which should be extended from the bottom of the carbs when it has been activated by the choke lever).

Carb? Your car should have TWO carbS. In order to give you advice we need to know what you've got under the hood, and what you have or haven't done to the engine lately. Has someone replaced the SU's with a 4BBL carb? Has one of the SU's just fallen off the car? Have you changed the fuel and air filters yet. Replaced the Distributor CAPand Rotor? Done a tune-up lately? Help us to help you.

Carb? Your car should have TWO carbS. In order to give you advice we need to know what you've got under the hood, and what you have or haven't done to the engine lately. Has someone replaced the SU's with a 4BBL carb? Has one of the SU's just fallen off the car? Have you changed the fuel and air filters yet. Replaced the Distributor and Rotor? Done a tune-up lately? Help us to help you.

Chuck: I think it may have been in one of the "Wiring Harness" threads where there was talk about reproducing the wiring for various S30 Z cars.