Bambikiller240

Where is Sopkane?

Step#1 Think you need to get under there and really look hard at ALL of the wiring to see if you have melted/burned wires that are shorting to other wires. Use your nose too. That smoke came from somewhere, and sometimes your nose can help lead you to the area.

Sorry, I'm not very knowledgable in this area. Our member EScanlon may be a better person to ask. He worked in a body shop for a long time. Good Luck! Carl

Link has been changed. I updated the Thread starting post to reflect the change. Good Luck

How rusty is your 240Z? Swiss Cheese rusty, or just a lot of surface rust? POR will stop rust from expanding, but it will not restore structural integrity that has been compromised. Need a welder and patch panels for that.

.........and a small weeny!

Doors will fit the holes in the chassis (unibody) but it would take MAJOR work to even attempt to get the latching system of those doors to work on the chassis. The project you are talking about is more of a "systems" swap into a different chassis, rather than a chassis swap, since the cars are unibodys. You'll end up with the chassis (and it's VIN #) of the 280Z with a bunch of 240Z parts tacked onto it.

PM on the way to you, Gary.

Here is a picture of R180 and R200, and some basic R180 VS R200 diff info

If it's just a seam, take it to a Radiator Repair Shop and have them fully open the seam, rodd out the core, and seal it all back up. Cheaper than replacing the radiator. Your local BEST REPUTATION Radiator Repair shop is the place to go for a repair, or a recore if that is needed.

I hope she is OK, also. Many of us have grown quite fond of Chloe and how well she takes care of her customers. Hopefully someone local to Wichita, KS can check up and let her know we are concerned for her.

I had this same problem a couple of years ago when i did my spindle pin project. My Machinest also had to use a 30 ton press (and a torch) to get things apart. Recently, I have been trying to borrow the "Spindle Pin Puller" that was donated to our club (from the person who offered to manage the tool) in order to help a friend out with this job, but it looks like we will be going the Machine shop route since he asked me to wait upon my first request and now will not respond at all to my requests to borrow it. Guess he got a freebie, and the rest of us lose out.

Doubt you're going to be able to make it fit.

No idea on cost. I'd call your favorite machine shop, or a trusted repair shop and inquire. When I had a broken stud removed and replaced, it was done as part of a valve/head rebuild job and included in the overall bill.

The broken stud won't cause the 2 dead cylinders, but it will cause an exhaust leak that will get worse and worse as time goes on. It will cause the manifold to warp also, so it's best to resolve that issue before too much time goes by. BTDT.

I voted for you and Cindy.

Hi Pancho On the pics that didn't appear, did the little box with the red X appear? If so, right click your mouse and select "Show Picture". That happened to me, there are so many pictures on the page that the loading "timed out" and the pics stopped loading. I was able to get them all to appear using this method. That was one reason I saved it to my hard drive, so I wouldn't have to deal with that again. I'm glad that you mentioned the problems with doing this off of the car. I hate working on stuff like this on the car and would have tried to do it like you did. Guess this is better done as shown. Carl

Which Throw out (Clutch Release) bearing collar did you use when installing? The 72 collar or the 78 collar? This sounds like what happens when the 72 collar was used, when the 78 collar should have been used? Adjusting the M/C rod at the pedal will have a limited effect since the M/C (and Slave) have a finite amount of travel within the cylinders.

Maybe they used too much bandwidth? I dunno. You might try later. Remember it's and FTP address not an HTTP address, if that makes any difference to your browser. I got the link from Zcar.com and the guy changed the FTP address a couple of times before I was able to view it myself. There were about 8-10 S30 video's, and the rest were S31, Z31 videos mostly. Here's the link to the Zcar.com thread: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=483117&t=482459

ftp://68.19.106.43/ User and Password are both "zcar" (without the quotes!) EDIT: Link updated on 07-21-04

Here is a great link to a "HOW TO" pictorial of replacing Rear Wheel Bearings on an S30. It has a lot of pictures so it will take a bit of time to fully load, but it looks to be a very good resource. I saved it to my hard drive in case it disappears from the Net before I get around to doing this job. If anyone who is experienced with doing this job cares to comment on the tutorial, those of us who haven't done it will appreciate your "constructive comments". :classic: Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

Wow, You were't kidding about this car being a "planter". Pretty cool that we can now attach more than one pic to a post!

It's Alive! Welcome back everyone, & Thanks for hooking us up, Mike.

Thanks for chiming in with this info, Keith. I knew that flow got cut off at some point, but didn't know the tempurature that triggered it. That noise about hot spots in the head due to blocking the intake pre-heat line was kinda amusing. How does "flow" ocur at low temps with the Thermostat closed? Where is the flow coming from and going to? I can see tempurature being transmitted through water into the intake, but ................ I wonder if the control valve is even available from Nissan, should someone need one?

Well, the fitting is below the Thermostat, and the Thermostat is what allows water to flow out of the engine and into the radiator, so until it opens you are not going to get any cooling anyway. The thermostat opens at 180 degrees (or whatever stated temp of thermo that you use) and at that point water (coolant) flows through the entire system including the radiator. Think about where the water in that pipe comes from. It comes from the small nipple on the "inlet" pipe on the front, passenger side of the engine, water flows around the back of the engine (through hoses, outside of the block), through the intake, out the intake, and into the Thermo housing. IF the Thermostat is open, the water will flow into the top of the radiator, and down the cooling tubes, and back to the inlet pipe. If the Thermostat is closed, no water can flow out of the Thermostat housing, engine block/head, or through the intake. It is my opinion that who ever stated the tale you are relating, doesn't know their butt from beans.