Gav240z

I voted 2. Hope you win dude the other cars are meh ordinary. Gavin,

I honestly couldn't agree with you more. I understand the thrill of a V8 but I love the exotic note of a hard tuned L-series. I have a video which I wish I could remember the link of. It has a nice Z running tripples and is running around a Nascar track and it has the sweetest sound I must have played it back 20 times+ . :classic:

Oh tell Scott I know exactly how he feels. I get people telling me just put a RB30Turbo in it or Rb20 turbo or RB26 and be done with it.... Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr I'm gonna build a monster of an L28 infact I'm in the process and finally no it's not a rotory how could anyone mistaken the Z for a mazda grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Seriously who is gonna bid on a car when they can only see a picture from one angle? What are they thinking we all know what we wanna see the spots that rust. Sure original hubcaps I can put those on my 240z. No original engine also as Halz was saying (For the record the PO of my car still has the original block I am yet to pick it up). Is this guy dreaming or what? If I bought a POS shell and spent an aditional $16,000 I could have a wicked 240z. Not worth it I guess he's gonna get no bids. Gav

cheaky indeed . It cost me about $150 I think, If your in Melbourne I can get the contact details of the guy who did it. He has a flow bench.

Well i thought i should write up about what I've been up to with my Z lately. Since the site has been down for a little. I was originally going to install a new camshaft and engine head ontop of the existing block. However after pulling it apart and discovering the lash pads weren't wearing quite right and the camshaft was a bit rough they had filed down the square parts on the cam you can use a shifter to turn it from. For what reason I don't know. I decided I'd pull my P90 engine head off and compare the two. Here is the part some might find interesting. I have 3 motors:- Motor 1(Specs) F54 Block , 72 E88 Head, N42 Valves, Port work, Mild Cam. Pretty sure flat tops from comp reading (In Car). It goes fine sounds great but is burning oil which could either be valve stem seals or blow by. Still unsure on that 1. Motor 2(Specs) P90 head, F54 Block , Flat Top Pistons, Decent size valves(Appear to be stock but are quite large compared with others we had), Port work unsure. The motor was going ok but started to play up right before the car it was in was written off. Found water had been leaking into combustion chamber and carbon build up everywhere. Motor 3(specs) N42 Block, Dished Pistons, E88(73) head, 76 Degree cam , n42 valves, port work etc.. Apparently was pulling 120rwkw with tripples(webber) on it. Ok so for now I get motor 2 and 3 tested for flowing capabilities and guess what the P90 is much better. The E88 did not flow that well the port work could have been done better last owner said he pumped $1200 into port work. I bought the motor for $400 but have realised it's a bit of a waste. So if your still with me to this point, I am going to build the P90 get a 76 degree camshaft made up that is internally oiling the other head i bought the cam was a squirter bar type and I'm not fond of those. I've had my distributor mapped and it will now rev to 9000rpm if i want. We are going to do some port work on her(p90) , get a 3 angle valve job done. Then once the head is ready try putting it on depending on comp ratio to the block in the motor if she burns oil still I'll build a bottom end(which I will anyway) but quicker and I'll go the Diesel crank and bore her to 3.1ltr. So basically I have reconfirmed the issue that the P90 is the best engine head for a Z by means of a flow bench test. As a result I am now building a new motor for my Z slowly and properly and I'll let everyone know how it turns out

cheap ones break under higher power and wear out quicker. If you are running a high power motor you can't rely on the cheapies but if you want to just get your stock 260z new ones then cheapies are fine. Apart from Z shops and Nissan you can try a couple of places in America like motorsport auto.

Just a few notes there are quite a few things involved in going with this kind of set up. You can run the standard nissan flat top pistons but there are quite a few different ones around. You don't have to run Nissan ones btw you can run any piston you like as long as you use the rings that come with it and they will work with the connecting rods. I'm not sure on the 89mm pistons fitting correctly though.

On a similar topic the LY crossflow heads what are they worth? And are they hard to come by?(compared to the O.S Giken). That's a cheaper alternative for those who desperately need a crossflow head. Personally I think the P90 is the best and as victor says if I need a twin cam crossflow it would be an RB motor.

I think the problem with your SU's is they are in poor condition. When my car was running slightly better (am doing some work to it tomorrow) I didn't really have a problem starting on cold starts. With the electronic ignition on it it's much easier to start and the choke correctly applied it would fire on first turn of the key. Driving it with the choke isn't a big hassle for me either. I think they money getting your FI working on your Z would be better spent rebuilding the SU's. The hardest part to find for me has been with the electronic distributor module on the side of the dizzy. It's not the E80 or whatever everyone uses it's from another year the only way i can identify this distributor is by the fact that it's made partly by mitsubishi. Then again I'm not in the US and Z parts seem easy to find there compared with here. Gav

I am going to be rebuilding a transmission soon enough so any information or feedback would be greatly appreciated as a newbie let me know how you went with it. :classic:

Holes in the door? Where? I dunno you guys are E-Bay hawks I can't see it . Looks fairly nice apart from the Sunroof of course, good luck Stephen.:classic:

I love that Honda go boom .. Best video yet!

I am told it's the 73 240z shell that was a bit heavier and used for the early 260z 2 seater aswell. My old 73 had the shorter fram rails and were not as thick to my memory i could be wrong. I know my 72 is definately shorter and thinner. Attach pics of your chassis underside. And your radiator support. Gav,

That's your best joke so far :classic: .

Well in most cases they don't know any better. However when it comes to an accident and insurance company could be very picky and find out stuff like this. My 240z in Victoria has an L28 nobody really knows either. I am taking a slight risk but if I was to tell them every modification done to the car insurance would be ridiculously high. Probably higher than a car with a turbo and more power just because it's an old sports car and I'm young. I would just say L24 and L28 are different block castings nothing to do with capacity or to my knowledge anyway :cheeky: hint hint.

I think you have to be pashionate and have a dream to make it work. If you are going to buy one because they look cool , but can't be bothered getting under the car and fixing problems then I would not recommend one. My first second and 4th cars were all Z's the 4th car is the best you can see pics on the left just under my name. It was fairly rust free but still has some here and there. The mechanical condition was good but not excellent but so far it's been pretty reliable with one or two hickups. I have learnt so much about cars as a result of owning one. It's a great life skill to be able to diagnose and fix a problem on a car. It can save you being taken for a ride. Be prepared though: Expect to swear, curse, jump up and down and loose your cool from time to time. It's not smooth sailing all day long. That's what makes it so much fun though, you find a problem have a hell of a time fixing it then when you do you know for next time. It gives a great feel of accomplishment. Your friends may or may not understand they might be into other cars and might not see the big picture. Most of mine have been that way till i got number 4. Checklist for a first Z. -Minimal rust. -Check for accident damage. -Chassis should be as straight as possible. -Wiring looms not butchered. -Mechanical can be fair to good(They are pretty reliable with simple things like oil changes). -Read read read. -Ask ask ask(use search function first). -Take photos of cars you look at write a list of problems things that are wrong with it. Often you look at a car and until it's yours the problems won't annoy you. Anyway I've harped on long enough. Gav,

Can you confirm Nick if they are the Panasport C8R's wheels? I really am fond of these wheels. I also love the "432" or "BRE" rear spoiler as it's commonly mistakenly known. It just looks great on your car and I'm considering putting one on my car myself. If your not too keen going into engine specs perhaps you could enlighten us as to what makes Big Sam handle so well. I've always loved the way a 240z handles in stock form. I've also seen what they can do when properly set up. Any details would be greatly appreciated