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Gav240z

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Everything posted by Gav240z

  1. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13413&highlight=Toyota http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9832&highlight=Toyota+S12
  2. You should be able to find the information to my knowledge it's a direct bolt on of coure if your using new pads and calipers I would recommend machining the originals. You will require a wheel size of at least 14" I believe or could be 15". There is also some issues with the dust shield , I don't know why you can't find the information though..... It has been discussed quite a few times... Maybe try fewer strings like 4X4 or Toyota or 4 pot calipers
  3. Arghh I know it as a pilot bushing also, I guess when u think about it, makes more sense than spigot a pilot guides something in this case the gearbox shaft to the crankshaft. Same as a pilot light on a heater i guess?
  4. Well like any car the Z speedo will read 160mph but I think you will find it will only do around 125mph however that's a USA delivered 240z with a 4 speed. Your top speed will greatly depend on many things and 1 of the most important will be gear and diff ratio's. Also the torque the motor produces so that the air resistence will still be less than the torque the motor can put out. That's why we have top speed. There are many articles on doing the conversion from Auto to Manual however if you are getting a 280z and I believe in the US they are common as then why don't you keep looking for a manual. Most important on these cars is how original they are as usually this means they have had a nicer life and also how good the body is. A car with it's original paint is good because you can often tell the condition of the car in terms of rust alot easier and often can rule out the possibility of rust within reason of course. Almost all Z's that are in the cheapish price range will have rust somewhere, so just because it looks good exterior wise doesn't mean underneath it is. To answer a few more questions to my knowledge the Z has no speed limiter fitted. S30 range anyway. Second to buy a new or used gearbox your best bet would be ebay but you have to be carefull and ask plenty of questions first but I don't live in the US so i have no idea where else to get 1.
  5. Anyone used their door skins? I think I'll need those for my car.
  6. Thanks for the replies guys i don't think I'll go with that kit advertised i'd rather go through too intense and get them made up in leather mmmm leather would be far nicer than vinyl. However seriously considering a bucket seat also. :classic:
  7. I am fortunate to have the original and very good condition carboard glove box in my 240z still. I don't wanna pull it out atm because i don't wanna ruin it as the last time i tried i did as MikeW and ruined it. If i ever do though I'll make the measurements and let you guys know. I should take some photos aswell. :classic:
  8. Yes and no your unlucky because you didn't get the Skylines they are a good car. You also got a 240sx instead of a 200SX which has the SR20DET(TURBO). The S13 Silvia is a boring non turbo motor over there same with the 180sx they seem to call them 240sx's. However in terms of Z's your are most fortunate. An L28 Turbo can be easily obtained and I just saw one for sale for $200 if someone picks it up. In australia they are very rare and the correct turbo parts ie: dizzy, afm, exhaust and intake manifolds, etc... are almost impossible to find. Also an LD28 crankshaft can be found for ~$180 - $250 over there here such an item is rare to come across and goes for $1100 + was the last one i saw. So it's a bit of a trade off also parts brand new parts for Z's are also easier to obtain and you have alot more 240z's than we do. Guesses here are that there are only 1000 odd left in the country.
  9. Could be the voltage regulator in the 240z there attached to the drivers side of the engine bay i believe. I can't remember if yours has a thermo fan in it or not? If so i had major headaches with a thermo fan unit in my old 260z killed 3 alternators. That's why in my current 240z i have left the old clutch fan. I agree i don't think it's your stereo however one night while driving home my car almost shut off while i had the headlights, wipers, stereo and heater running , but it was a easy fix as the alternator belt itself was too loose from previous work i'd done in the area and I needed to make it that bit tighter. See when it was under a large load the belt was obviouly just slipping and not charging the car. Other possibility is your battery is on the way out. But before replacing it check the other things, also you do know you can put distilled water to top up each resevoir at the top of the battery? If the level is below the (electrodes) i believe there called then it will cause problems with charge. Can't think of anything else right now unless it's a short somewhere.
  10. Drain oil from Tranny first
  11. http://www.justjap.com/Used_wheels.htm Here ya go!
  12. Well you can't find it because they are made by Nissan they are from I believe an R33 or R34 Nissan Skyline GTR. To make these fit you will need a 5 stud hub. Just to begin with but they are pretty expensive wheels i believe. If you want something just as wild. Panasport C8R's are good I am considering getting these when i get the money some day http://www.naisnet.co.jp/panasport/g7-c8r.htm That or Watanabe's
  13. I really like your aftermarket stereo idea that way you could retain the original look. Sorry for this being off the topic of selling your car
  14. I think we all go through the change the Z phase but most get over it. All they need is good paint and great looking wheels. They are perfect just how they are
  15. yeah they are so I guess i should hold off and not bother stuffing about with white skins.
  16. Yes I know what your saying but that's $170 in US dollars at 2 intense restoration. Not to mention shipping then import tax here in Australia . The only reason I'm considering this.
  17. My 73 240z had a white interior it was pretty cool actually and I believe quite rare too. www.zhome.com mentions interior and exterior color combo's or is it colour . I remember reading that a red exterior and white interior was produced just not that many. The add says it's imported from Japan you can check it out at www.tradingpost.com.au just type "240z" in the search field.
  18. I am curious about changing the color of seats. The reason i ask is there is a fellow nearby my place who is selling 240z seat skins only problem is they are white and not black. I know I could use Vinyl spray but does this stuff come off and i know it can run also so you have to be carefull when spraying. He wants ~$180 for the set of 2 which is prob reasonable anyone know of a professional process for changing the color or is it just not worth while? Oh and ideas on what it would cost to get them colored properly would be good. Gav:classic:
  19. Gav240z commented on Ron Carter's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  20. Gav240z commented on Ron Carter's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  21. Gav240z commented on Ron Carter's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  22. When you say high compression like 11:1 12:1 is this after shaving the head? I wouldn't recommend shaving too much as you won't be able to run it on the street. I believe the early 240z's had flat top pistons in them but can't be certain. You may have to notch the cylinders for the bigger valves but I am not sure on an L24 and I don't know because I've never done any machine work myself. The good thing about an L24 is that they like to rev alot more that's why i suggested installing a lighter flywheel and harmonic balancer. It helps the bigger motor turn over. Don't go too far over budget as it is really easy to do so with any form of build. Do whatever will make you happy and speak to a professional who works with Z's alot in your area.
  23. Ok first of all i understand that you want to be able to say I did it all myself which is great Im the same. What you have to realise is that you can't do everything yourself at some stage a machinist is gonna have to do the work to the engine unless of course you have the tools. Some good mods are:- With your E31 put valves from a L28 head in it. Also change the valve stem seals so it can run on unleaded. Of course if you want to race the car there can be some problems entering in a class where you are limited on valve size. An L28 block i would imagine is very cheap to pick up from a junk yard and by the time you replace bearings, rings, and bore out the current block your better starting with an L28 just my opinion. The big cam is a good start and the E31 is high compression so I think the L28 bottom end with need the dished pistons to be ~10:1 im not 100% sure on that. You will need to change the SU's to accomodate the bigger bore and SM needles are good from www.ztherapy.com You can get a 240z flywheel and have it lightened and then get a 240z front harmonic balancer the one with only the single pulley assembly this will let the motor rev quicker and I have done this on my L28 and it seems alot nicer than before. I could go on for a while but i think the best thing to do is work out a budget and go from there. i always like Brian littles information... Car of the month a Zcar http://www.zcar.com/month/2001/04/ his website at... http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/ However i'm told you shouldn't take all the information as 100% correct.
  24. The reason i posted this is as stated many people have achieved good power from the SU's I have seen it myself. I have a friend with a very similar motor to the rebello one built. Yes the SU's are modified but to say that the Holley 4 barrel are better than poor performing SU's is a bit of a joke. However it does state for those who find the SU's hard to tune and poor on performance. Honestly you just need them to be set up right and they work wonders just like with any carb. I guess i don't want to see people doing this conversion thinking it's good because it's not an improvement as far as I can tell.
  25. in my non-professional opinion just what i read online or in books the second design is far better as panchovisa was saying you don't want the crank to whip up the oil as the oil turns to a creamy like substance and stops acting like oil should. This one allows for oil to drain to the bottom but also has a tray to ensure that there is some oil to be sucked up by the pump. www.240z.id.au he has a sump design which i like even if it is a L28 Turbo it's still the same concepts. :cheeky:

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