ChrisA

240Z distributors used points. 280Z dizzy's were electronic and the caps are bigger. Is your dizzy points or electronic? Is your new cap bigger or why do you think its wrong? There is a part number stamped in the body of the dizzy, find it and tell us and we'll tell you exactly what dizzy you have. Much luck, Chris

I wish I had a good radiator shop here. Charged too much money for a job not well done. Bought an MSA three row a few years ago. No complaints considering what I'd been through. In my experience if you tell the shop around here what you're driving they do a crappy job. If you just tell them to fix it then usually its ok. Paint came off my local repair the first time the radiator got to full temp and the top tank leaked worse than when I took it in. Oh well, live and learn. Much luck, Chris

How about Mr. K's signature on a Bambikiller bobblehead shifter knob with red glowing LED eyes!!! Just kidding of course Carl! Chris

The suspect T/C Rod on my car had deep, eighth inch or more pits on the shank where the bushings where located. Seemed very strange that the rest of the rod was ok. Since it was so close to the threads I didnt risk it. And again, it was bent anyway. In to the garbage bin flyboy!!! Chris

Warm fuzzies are nice!

Purging/flushing is kind of relative. You keep draining and adding fluid until you feel that you've gotten most or all of the old fluid out. I have a professional bleeder that will pull the old fluid out while a tank keeps adding to the master cylinder at the same time. Usually you keep going till the fluid coming out is the same color as the fluid going in. Its always worked for me. Might be a tad wasteful on brake fluid but your brakes and your safety are not something to scrimp on. Come on members, give us some more thoughts on this one. Chris

I have used the delrin/metal cup setup on a street driven 73 but the roads here are bad and it was very rough. Since switching to poly I have less steering wheel input but still better than stock rubber. I blasted my rods with walnut shells then cold galvanized them and painted them flat black. I've never seen a rod break but I have seem them bend on my 72 that had been in an accident when I bought it. I'm now wondering if the rods are the same on the 240/260/280. I swapped a 71 onto the 72 and noticed the 72 rod was really pitted and I worried about its structural intergrity besides it being bent slightly. My busings were the G Machine from VB and I didnt have any trouble with hole alignment. Much luck. Chris

I think that hybridZ link is dead. :cry:

Hi Jeanette, welcome to the Z car community. Dont know how much help you'll find here as we cater to the older 240/260/280Z. But, save your pennies and get one and we'll surely help you!! Muck luck with your new toy! Chris

It takes a little persuasion to get the rotor off the hub. Very tight maching tolerances. Just take your time. I found rotors are pretty cheap if you mess one up removing it from the hub. Use a little antiseize when you reassemble them. Next time will be much easier. Good Luck. Chris

Manifold bolts to head (with gasket). Spacers between carbs and manifold. Never seen the intake on a 240K so cant help you there. Some of our Aussie and New Zealand members should know. Good luck. Chris

Welcome Mike M, its good to hear of another series 1 out there. 127 is a pretty low number. Send in some pictures and ask away. Lots of good folks here to answer questions. Tell us some history of the car if you can. Good luck!! Chris

Hey Bill, just teasing when I say there never was a torbocharged Z car! LOL . Seriously though, 1981 280ZX is the answer (of course you all knew that). Chris

Oh Yeah!! B double E double R u n, BEERRUN!!! Say it real fast.

Looks to be a repaint, spare tire well is lime green. Dash has no cracks (yet). Hard to believe a car in Wisconsin has metal left in the floor. Oh well, someone might pick it up. Chris

Uummm, to find better dentists? ROFL

Marty you should run for president. Cuz you'd get my vote. That is the slickest thing I've ever heard yet. Since I've got two Z's I'm gonna use your tip on the other one. Incredibly ingenious!! Thanks!! Chris

Bring the car to me Charlie, I'll take good care of her. I swear.

Best damn UPS employee yet!!

Okay, serious thread this time (Racoon Killer). I got the air cleaner decals from Mike at Banzai Motorworks. Put them on a freshly painted air cleaner(1972). My question is, anyone know of a topcoat/sealer I can put over the decals to protect them. The two small white decals are very papery(sic) and the silver carb adjust sticker is printed on a foil like backing. I thought about artist shellac but I dont know if it will withstand the heat of the engine bay. Any thoughts folks? Thanks in advance. Chris

The Roo's are fast!! LOL

I'm all for the T-shirts Carl!!! LOL

Victoria British doesnt offer those anymore. I dont know about Motorsport Auto. Maybe a dealer item if they can still get them. Chris

So I got out and look at the car now that the sun is up, holy crap!! Big chunks of fur stuck on all the sharp edges and there's a dent in the footwell sheetmetal!! Co-worker came in and said "Man, did you see the roadkill?", I said yeah, wasn't roadkill till I killed it!