ChrisA

Mike's picture is exactly what was on my 73. The round knob controls the thermostat with the long stiff capillary tube that goes over to the evaporator. The switch is on/off for the compressor clutch. My compressor said "ThermoKing" on it and there was installation paperwork in the glovebox when I bought the car. Thanks for the memories Mike. Chris

Hey Allan, I got a set of zt carbs back when Scott Bruning was running the show. They're really good stuff. The shafts are machined where the butterflies attach for a little more flow. The have the roller bearings on the shaft ends. From a "seat of the pants" opinion I really like the way the zt carbs seem to "come on" around 3000 rpm versus stock. I dont know if this is due to the aftermarket engine cam plus the zt carbs, but the stock carbs didnt have that "surge". My 73 uses the stock intakes but I too have some N36's I am getting ready to install if I ever get the time. I'm going to port match them and do a little parting line sanding. I drilled and tapped the smog ports and vacumm hose fittings and am plugging them off. I wish I knew a shop that did extrude honing and didnt charge an arm and left nut because I here that's a good way to better the flow. The balance tube from the 240Z is supposed to work on the N36 setup but I havent checked that out yet. Anyway, the carbs are superb!! Much luck, Chris

One of my workstations. Chris

Still a good bit of info for those with A/C. Had the problem once myself in a different Datsun model. Chris

Attaboy Dan!!! Chris

As a matter of fact, Monday afternoon I was at a funeral and saw a dead person. Seriously!! Chris P.S. I'm not crazy, just zcrazy!!

Your just jealous because the voices only talk to me!! :stupid: Chris

Hi suley.... www.ztherapy.com Chris

Need a cold shower? LOL Okay, at night in my garage my 73 says to my 240SX...."I'll kick your a_s anytime, anywhere, just pick the road. I dont need no stinking rev limiter!! Chris

How about this? Chris

Yeah, took me about a week to get a set of roundies from Scott Bruning for my 73. Chris

Hey Jason, all I can offer is that you need the crankshaft out of a diesel L28 motor. Commonly known as the LD28. They are hard to find and those who have them want good money for them. You need an L28 block, I dont think you can safely bore the L24 block that much. Then you need nine millimeter rod bolt 240Z rods and 240SX pistons and on and on and on. All this for a motor that will make less than 300 horses. Not that that's bad, she'll make torque up the wazooo!!! If I were you, I'd go the turbo L28 route. Add an intercooler and aftermarket injector controller, better turbo, better exhaust, better air intake. You should make the same or more horsepower with this setup and it would be more reliable. The stroker motor requires a lot of machine work that could cause trouble later. Its been done many times so surely you can get more advice from someone who's done the 3.1. Much luck Chris

If anybody has any pics or specs for this tool, I have a really good fab department at my shop. Maybe I could get a few more made to loan out. Chris

Hey Kmack, gives me the heebie jeebies too, I have a set at home on a shelf. I curse them every time I walk by. LOL Then I look at the ztherapy roundies on my 73 with the milled shafts and roller bearings and just smile!!!:classic: Chris

Here's a pic of the round top setup. Notice the round ports where the air cleaner bolts up. Chris Photos from ztherapy.com website....Thanks Bruce Palmer!!!

Bill said: "So i guess the 260zs had round toppers on em" Stephen is right Bill, no 260Z ever had round tops from the factory. Has to have been converted. Here's a picture of the flat top set up. Notice the square throats where the air cleaner bolts up.

You got that right!!!! Chris

Hey Rick, you asked about using a relay? I use one of the little black square Bocsh relays on my car. The fuel pump uses some seroius current and as we all know the stock wiring is fragile enough. I have an aftermarket relay/fuse panel up high on the right kick panel. It powers the fuel pump, aftermarket radio and amps. Its a Painless Wiring thingy I got from Jegs. Its got the relay and three fuses for the individual circuits. I mounted it up high enough so you cant see it unless your looking for it. I'm still checking on the pressure switch cut out. Looks like it ties in with the starter solenoid and the ignition switch for getting the car running then will kill the pump if the oil pressure goes below 4 pounds. Mr Gasket and Holley each make a version, I dont know which one to get yet. Besides the plumbing issue I'm still thinking about. Chris

Burn Him......burn the witch!!! Monty Python Um...sorry folks, don't know what came over me just then. Must be because I can't stand ignorant people. Will and Carl......thank you. Chris

Will do!! Chris

Hey Guys, at jegs or summit I saw a Holley oil pressure switch that would cut the fuel pump circuit if the engine quit. Maybe that would work for ricksaia. I'm not sure how its plumbed so that might cause problems as I bet its not metric pipe thread like our stock sending units. My 72 with L28 is probably not real safe as the pump runs as soon as the key gets to the ACC position. Guess I'll have to look into this also. Chris

Hey Dude, on a LHD Z just inside the dash on the left side of where you're radio goes, there is a buzzer mounted to the dash support. I'll try and find a pic in my stash. Chris

Hey Guys, I spend most of my time on the site while at work. Luckily I can get away with it!! Like Carl, I edit and re-edit but I'm sure I've made a few blunders. I think the spelling issues make things more interesting. Considering I deal with truck drivers who use the most bizarre language anyway, Bill is a piece of cake to talk with!!! Chris