ChrisA

Stroke would still be the same. I just re-read this and its really helpful (I think). http://zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html Chris

Right, crank stroke is unaffected by rod length, but if you change the rod length from stock havent you changed a variable that determines cubic inches or compression or something? Chris

Hey Vicky, only dumb question is the one not asked. Bore you'd measure with a bore micrometer. Stroke would not change unless crank and or rods are different than what was in stock motor. There is a formula for determining cubic inches and compression using the variables of bore & stroke & combustion chamber chamber cc's but again you'd have to determine what crank/rods/pistons are in the engine. You'd have to see an engineering diagram of the crank to determine the difference in stroke. I think the service manuals tell the stroke lenth on the cranks. When I was a younger gear head I could have quoted you all the formulas but I've forgotten most of that stuff. Chris

It was a low number of LY's for sure. v12horse (Ben) got to ride in a RHD with a 2.9 liter LY. The owner of the car said he paid $60,000 for it 30 years ago. Yes, $60,000. Hey Victor, how about a loan? Chris

The old rule on unleaded gas was it didnt have any protection for the valve guides and valve seats. You would get excessive seat pounding. This was on the 240/260Z heads. The 280Z heads had hardened seats to accept unleaded. Those that have had a valve job with new seats installed are ok to use unleaded. I have an original E31 head and I havent noticed any problems with unleaded gas (91-93 octane here). Valve timing is always good and motor has great compression. I used to run octane booster but that seemed to decrease my gas mileage so I stopped using it and just look for the highest octane I can find. FWIW Chris

It was pretty good overall, the best is the black S30 that's driving away from the camera then he stomps it and lays a bunch of twin stripes down for several feet everytime he shifts. Must be some serious power in that beasty. Needed more S30 stuff but again from a Z perspective it was pretty good. The Green Hornet music was hillarious. Chris Anybody wants the clip they can PM me and I'll email it to them.

Wayne is right, you'll have a fun time trying to remove the water temp sensor from the lower housing. All those years of hot/cold cycles and the fact that brass and aluminum dont mix well. Get factory Nissan parts for the sender if you can, the set I bought from VB wasnt even close to original. Dealer got them for me no problem. Get some antiseize and put some on all the bolts for the thermostat housing. If you ever have to change the t-stat again you'll be amazed at how easy the bolts will come out. My .02 Chris

Thanks Carl, I think it looks good on the right paint job. Chris

I agree with Victor, get the price down to $1000 or less. My first Z was $1000 and it gave me a lesson on Z cars I'll never forget. I wish I still had it. Much luck, Chris

Hey Matt, looks good. What is the stuff along the bottom of the doors and fenders. Looks like aluminum or stainless molding of some kind. Chris

Congratulations!! How about some pictures of the new toy? Chris

ROFL :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Dude, get a mechanic on it quick. Chris

I realize it's not Christmas time but I forgot I had this on the computer. http://load.pquinn.com/binaries/fries/ HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY! Chris

How's the car run? My L24 went about that many miles and the valve stem seals let go. The chain looked good but I replaced it anyway. I've heard about chain stretch and all but never seen it on an L series motor. I've run Z cars for 20 years and never had a failure. I have heard that if the oil fed tensioner inside the front cover fails then you'll have trouble. Much luck, Chris

Hey webdawg, the next time you see a Snap On or Mac Tools truck stop in and visit them. They can get almost any tool. I have seen what you're describing on the Snap On truck that comes to my shop. I use a large set of slip jaw pliers to remove the nut on my stuff. Snap On has a "Catridge Nut Tool" which removes OEM and aftermarket nuts on most OEM Datsun/Mazda/Toyota vehicles. Fits 51/54/55 and 58mm nuts. Snap On number WMS1. Good luck man! Chris

Hey Steve, my bad on the ZX, it was 135 hp. I'm 100% on my wife's 280Z, I worked on it so much the tag is burned into my memory. I'm going by the salvage yard this weekend where they have every year of 280Z and some 280ZX's. I'll try and get some more info. Chris

The data plate on my wife's 75 280Z said 170 HP. And I believe the ratings were in GROSS horsepower not NET like they are now. The 280ZX was tagged as 149 hp NET. And I thought there were no changes in the motor when it went from the 280Z to the 280ZX. I think there's a good explanation of the ratings on www.zhome.com. Chris

Hey Marc, you have a buddy who's got an impact gun? Get his gun and use an air bubble to burp that bolt outta there. Much luck, Chris

Wish we knew how many R's it was turning when it let go.:stupid: Chris

Attaboy Bill, you just keep doing the right things!! Like Rick said you dont hit a women which is why I put up with my mother beating me till I was 15. Then out into the real world I went. Its amazing that some people will rent an apartment (shithole) to a 15 year old kid who's still in high school and has a part time job. Thank God they did. I grew up fast. And I think I turned out all right too. Worked the same job for 14 years now, my own house, married for 13 years, 8 month old son, etc etc. With your wit and a good head on your shoulders Bill, you'll be fine. Chris

So right Bill. Some people should never have kids. I feel for you Bill, no six year old deserves broken ribs. I can't imagine you or anybody doing anything to deserve that kind of abuse. Chris PM coming to you.

Looks like Stephen (sblake01) has bid on it. Chris

Change the tranny and diff lube then see if you still have the noise. Check the drained fluid for metal bits. Chris