panchovisa
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Everything posted by panchovisa
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HS30-H, the photo angle is a little deceiving. What leads you to say it's not an R-200? The side plates? The rear cover? I've got two R-180's and they are smaller, lighter, and have totally different side plates and rear covers. What is your opinon, R-190? -
frank, you would be amazed at how little the "professionals" know about gear lube. The local Nissan service head honcho didn't know if they put synthetic or normal gear lube in LSD'S. He also had no idea about the weight or GL- spec's. At Rapid Oilchange (Valvoline) the kids new that tranny's nad rear ends took gear lube. But it was the same for each and every car/ truck/ moped/ space shuttle that drives in. "Lube is lube man". And two auto parts stores both knew slightly more than the dealer. Thank goodness there are people here that know about our cars!
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Phred, yes the M-bar is solid mounted on aluminum homemade bushings. The sway bar was on the racecar when I got it, but was mounted in RUBBER (for cryin out loud) bushings in sheet metal brackets. Got to drive it, it's just been sitting in the garage for 9 years. I only drove it about 400 (street & auto-X) miles on race slicks. -
Take the pictures now because once I start commuting it will never be this clean again (untill the next rebuild). -
Greg, all the triple manifolds I've seen have at least one place to attach for vacume. "Tee" off if you need more, but I think anything you buy will handle what is needed.
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Now it's time to build my custom rear struts (like you have never seen), and order those 17" x 13" hand made wheels and Viper sized Michelins. -
Here is side view showing triangulation up to frame attachment points. Also serves to lift car without bending suspension when jacked up from relocated pad. Custom aluminum pillow blocks hold 7/8" adjustable sway bar riding in teflon bushing, with thrust face against lateral locating collar.
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Rear member is welded and braced into one piece (bolts just fill holes where standard three piece stampings attach). Braces go to my new jacking point needed to clear dual exhaust that mounts to bolt hanging down right behind jack point. I believe that more rigid member will improve the handling by keeping rear suspension from deflecting lateraly. -
Silicone sealed body joints and undercoated (what a mess!). New urethane A-arm bushings, aluminum moustash bar bushings. Still need to make clevis for rod ends to A-arm. -
Cleaned up, lubed, and ready to install.
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j, thanks for the info. By the way the video of your autocross was awesome! I tried to save it but failed. I had to get my diff in the car today so I bought Mobil 1 full synthetic 75-140 wt (GL-5) and some CRC limited slip additive (compatable with synthetic). Pricy lube at $19.00 a quart! Well if it doesn't work it's not because I was cheap.
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Don't think a NA or FI engine will share a header with a turbo.
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Thanks Frank. Both the 5 speed (direct drive option #2) and the welded R-180 and the LSD 4.37 R-200 where used in competion. So based on your advise I should probably go with full synthetic and heavier weights. What about the GL-4, GL-5, etc. specifications? The guy at two different parts stores had no idea what that spec was. Someone told me that GL-4 was usually for trannys, and GL-5 was usually for rear ends. Whats the real deal?
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Does anybody have favorite weight/ brand/ GL spec for their gear lube? I've got one 4 speed, one 5 speed, two R-180's (one welded, one open), and one LSD R-200 to change lube soon. Petro based, or Synthetic? Any additives? Thanks, Pancho
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NASCAR approved window netting??? Or maybe you own stock in 3M? Seriously I'm sure that makes it so much easier to mask off the interior. -
Good going Bambikiller!
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Dream upgrades to my Z??????? Salma Hayack in the passenger seat should do it.
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If that is the case I'd go with FOUR new donuts and a repair manual that shows which way the "cup" of the large washers should face. Somebody may have had it apart before. If they put it back together wrong and you copy them, then where will you be? While you are under the car look at the bushings (L & R sides) at the inner pivot of the control arm. The long side of the bushing should be to the rear, and the short side to the front. If someone reversed the passenger side it would effectively move the ball joint forward from the correct location even with no problem regarding the t/c rod.
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My guess is that the rubber donut on the BACK side of t/c frame mounting bracket split and fell out.
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Ron, have you ever seen the book "Chasing the Stainless Steel Carrot" by Sylvia Wilkinson? It's all about John Morton, Datsun's, and how BRE enticed J.M. to drive the Z's and 2.5 liter 510's in Trans-Am with the promise of a Lotus Formula 5000 ride. Good book, lots of photos. -
A rectal-cranial inversion is a head up your arse. What is it to make your feces cohesive?
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Oh man, I wonder where I can get the "close ratio rack and pinion steering". Next I'll have to figure out how to "shift" through the different sterring ratios.
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Most likely it was sold by a Bob Sharp Datsun dealership, at best! The race track it is just off is most likely the local autocross parking lot. How many CP or GTU z's had fuel injection? Cassette players? Air-conditioning? No roll cage? No fuel cell? Well, maybe one if you believe what is advertised on E-bay.
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I use 1200 degree high tempeture clear coat. You have to sand/bead blast first. Helps close the texture of caliper so brake dust doesn't have much to hang onto.
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biker, glad all is well. Thought maybe you blew up the car (after too many Fosters) from heat/alcohol induced delerium.