panchovisa
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Everything posted by panchovisa
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frank13, So many questions grasshopper. Distributer cap is clear which goes well with lexan loom. Also looks cool at night with blue circle of sparks from rotor hitting contacts. Costs? Don't know, depends on if it's onesy-twosy or production quanity. Either way I'm two busy right now rebuilding my car to the next level. -
frank13, You can kind of scale the photo for the dimensions. If I made another one I would make bottom bend longer to block more of header. It attaches with 4 screws into existing holes of stock manifolds. Hardest part is making little "hooks" for the two throttle return springs (not visable in photo). Header is equal length 6 (1 3/8")into 2 (2") collectors made for me by Jere Stahl (he developed the race headers for Datsun in the good old days). It cost me about 600 bucks 20 years ago. It clears the large competition oil pan and is made for low ground clearance cars. -
Come on guys, give up the tips! Poor girl only has two bucks stashed in her bikini. How is she going to buy lunch with that. -
Maybe I should have made a lexan cover? I doubt that it would be race legal though. -
Just needs a little more elbow grease. -
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Nice racecar driver layout. Are you an engineer? EE? Only hope the black interior doesn't get to hot! Where is your drink bottle (gatorade, not beer!) -
Holy krap! What kind of speed do you expect to be doing? Maybe bambikiller would have a different handle today with those monsters. -
frank13, Wish I could post some pics of exhaust for you but I have pulled it off for now. Yes, it is dual. Header is a Stahl 1 3/8" primaries (with 1 5/8" sleveved down to 1 3/8" on cylinders #3 & #4) for low end torque, into two 2" collectors running back to two reverse flow turbo mufflers coming out both sides of fuel cell. I also have megaphones opening up to 3 1/2" for track use that slip on after removing mufflers. The sound with muffs is throaty at idle and sounds like 4 or 5 liter 6 cyl under hard excelleration. The megaphones sound like hot 5 liter V8 at idle and absolutely BARK like a 4 liter CHAINSAW when I punch it. Yes, Panchovisa is a play on words. I met my wife in Cancun on vacation (she's Mexican) and her parents started calling me Pancho. The Visa part comes from my use of the plastic card with the same name. owenk, Thanks for the high praise. You are the second person to mention the plug wire loom. Do you think I could sell them? I wouldn't want to tell you how long I spent on the first one!
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mperdue, My car is so low that I can't get my floor jack under the front cross member. So I added a jacking point a couple of inches higher. If you can see the rear cross member on the wall it also has been modified with the stock three pieces welded together and trianglulated to another jacking point. I had to do that because my dual exhaust mounts to the bottom of cross member which left no place to jack from. -
datsun260z, Thanks for the kind words. If I made more what do you think they would be worth with wires and distributor cap?
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Greyghost, I see my Z bringing up the rear in this photo. Previous owner ran with backyard built engine four four years, but managed to make the Runoffs all four years. When he finally got a John Caldwell built 330 hp engine ($10K back then) he ran out of money to actually race. If you have anymore pictures of the #3 car let me know. -
All installed and ready to glue carpet and jute back down. Only need to drop steel box and cell into hole, bolt down cover and upper frame, attach wires to fuel sender, connect fuel and vent lines, and cover with bulkhead. -
The framework and floor installed in car. I ran silicone to seal new floor to old floor. Pre-plumbing and wiring the assembly outside of car was so much easier than laying on your back trying to measure hose lengths. -
You can see here the threaded inserts that the steel fuel container will bolt to. Also you can see that entire old floor was removed back to the flanges of stock frame rails. -
Here is the bulkhead cover (required by racing associations) to seperate the fuel cell from the drivers compartment. See how the fuel lines are closed in by the cover and sloted piece behind cover. No need for bulkhead fittings here that would restrict access to fuel cell. Cover is not fully fitted yet, but will retain the gap to floor panel that will be filled by carpet/ jute. Access panel comes off with 1/4 turn of Dzus fastener for filling. -
Veiw shows the space betwwen lip of fuel cell and floor panel. This gap will be filled by carpet and jute under layment (for a stripped racer this gap not needed). Bolts for top cage and fuel container go into threaded inserts in lower frame.
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Fuel filter and "dog leg" in frame work. "Dog legs" will bolt to stock Datsun frame rails. Need to install threaded rivits to accept bolts. These are available from fastener suppy companies. All racers should have a supply of rivi-nuts on hand. They make it so convienient to fasten things from one side into sheet metal. -
Complete assembly plumbed and wired ready to bolt and rivet into car. Aluminum bulkhead to attach to stand-offs with Dzus fasteners. -
Aluminum frame (welded out side of car) with fuel pumps and filter pre-plumbed. -
Just finished a fuel cell upgrade (out with 30 year old ATL, in with new) on completed car. Didn't want to burn it up welding, so came up with bolt/rivet method. Thought it could be of help to others that don't want to burn their cars with welding. I have to many photos to show all here, so click on attachment to see NASCAR style frame then go to my gallery for more pictures.
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What happens when your oil pump goes out? Nothing good! Your car may have died at idle due to increased friction caused by lack of lubrication. The BHP at 700 rpm is not alot. Please don't run anymore "tests" until you pull the pump (easy to get at from below) and turn input shaft by hand. Any "sticky" spots, grinding noise, or other than smoooooth and free movement should send you to the local parts counter pronto. If you have an oil pressure gage, you should see AT LEAST 10 lbs at idle, and AT LEAST 30 lbs when you blip the throttle. If you haven't seen these figures there is something terribly wrong! Drain your oil pan and replace your filter. Examine the waste oil for anything unusual. A clogged filter with a stuck bypass valve can also starve an engine. After you have fixed or eliminated various problems, then pull your distibuter and use an old dis. shaft in a power drill to spin the oil pump. Have a friend verify that your oil pressure gage shows suitable pressure (turn ignition to run). Reassemble dist. and start engine. If oil gage doesn't read well kill engine immediately. In worst case you may have an internal oil leak (bad rod bearing, bad gasket from pick up to block, or other) that requires a rebuild. best wishes and good luck, Pancho
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I love it. Looks nasty. Only suggestion is to get til pipe up 2" higher. The center exit is cool,but hanging too low looks like bad fit. -
Zvoiture, Sorry to hear of your troubles. I suggest returning the car (with transportation charge one way) for return of purchase price. Then move on in your search for quality car. Follow this link to view a really well built L-28 300zx (late style) GT2 racer. This bad boy is soooooo sweet! It's pricey, but you said money was not the determining factor. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599ss.htm best wishes and Merry Christmas, Pancho
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TwoManyZs, Thanks for the quick feedback. I've been searching for Hurst-Airheart sites and all I get is mentions in pages about vintage racecars. I want to keep the H-A brakes to maintain the period correctness. Looks like re-lining is the way to go.
