panchovisa

j, thanks for the info. By the way the video of your autocross was awesome! I tried to save it but failed. I had to get my diff in the car today so I bought Mobil 1 full synthetic 75-140 wt (GL-5) and some CRC limited slip additive (compatable with synthetic). Pricy lube at $19.00 a quart! Well if it doesn't work it's not because I was cheap.

Don't think a NA or FI engine will share a header with a turbo.

Thanks Frank. Both the 5 speed (direct drive option #2) and the welded R-180 and the LSD 4.37 R-200 where used in competion. So based on your advise I should probably go with full synthetic and heavier weights. What about the GL-4, GL-5, etc. specifications? The guy at two different parts stores had no idea what that spec was. Someone told me that GL-4 was usually for trannys, and GL-5 was usually for rear ends. Whats the real deal?

Does anybody have favorite weight/ brand/ GL spec for their gear lube? I've got one 4 speed, one 5 speed, two R-180's (one welded, one open), and one LSD R-200 to change lube soon. Petro based, or Synthetic? Any additives? Thanks, Pancho

Good going Bambikiller!

Dream upgrades to my Z??????? Salma Hayack in the passenger seat should do it.

If that is the case I'd go with FOUR new donuts and a repair manual that shows which way the "cup" of the large washers should face. Somebody may have had it apart before. If they put it back together wrong and you copy them, then where will you be? While you are under the car look at the bushings (L & R sides) at the inner pivot of the control arm. The long side of the bushing should be to the rear, and the short side to the front. If someone reversed the passenger side it would effectively move the ball joint forward from the correct location even with no problem regarding the t/c rod.

My guess is that the rubber donut on the BACK side of t/c frame mounting bracket split and fell out.

A rectal-cranial inversion is a head up your arse. What is it to make your feces cohesive?

Oh man, I wonder where I can get the "close ratio rack and pinion steering". Next I'll have to figure out how to "shift" through the different sterring ratios.

Most likely it was sold by a Bob Sharp Datsun dealership, at best! The race track it is just off is most likely the local autocross parking lot. How many CP or GTU z's had fuel injection? Cassette players? Air-conditioning? No roll cage? No fuel cell? Well, maybe one if you believe what is advertised on E-bay.

I use 1200 degree high tempeture clear coat. You have to sand/bead blast first. Helps close the texture of caliper so brake dust doesn't have much to hang onto.

biker, glad all is well. Thought maybe you blew up the car (after too many Fosters) from heat/alcohol induced delerium.

Thanks guys, but we still haven't heard back from ampsman. He's the final critic ya-know. Had to do a tie rod end on the wife's car. Outside (Z is in single townhouse garage, torn apart), in the snow (8" new) at minus 5 degrees (regular, not wind chill). By necessity had er done in 45 minutes from jack up to jack down. Then it was margaritta-ville until I could feel my fingers again.