panchovisa

If the clutch pedal feels firm (at least the same as before storage) then the slave cylinder bore may have corroded and is not allowing piston to move. Pull the boot off of slave and inspect for corrosion pits or "blossums"

Ed, I just threaded the back cover ind installed aeroquip fittings and hose to a catch can (puke can). All my breathers and overflow goes to the same catch can. You could easily just slip a hose and a band clamp over the plastic pipe (take the cap off first) and run the hose to any location (with, or without a container). A low cost container could even just be a beer can (drink the beer first!).

Good question Clive. If it got to hot for to long then head may have warped, cracked, or split head gasket and is now allowing coolant (or coolant/ oil mix) into cylinder or exhaust port.

I just did mine by myself last week. One jack onder engine (let it sag just a bit) and then slide tranny on cardboard under car, put tail end on 4x4, then front on 4x4 (repeat until high enough for bigger 2nd jack), Jack up tranny, gradually slide forward to get shaft thru clutch. Then start long top bolts a few turns. Then shove it onto dowel pins and start bottom bolts. Adjust angle of engine/tranny to be inline and tighten it on. Photo: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10248&password=&sort=2&thecat=500

I'd like to run some vintage races, but if they get to anal about being perfectly correct specs than they can play with themselves.

No, they are vintage custom made pieces from the 70's when my car was raced.

Smiling? That must be coffee and not wine. Now for Ron, thats a smile, he's probably thinking "Great! At least my primer job won't win for worst paint!!!".

Fentin, I have exactly what your looking for (but they are not for sale) and soon I will be putting them on my car. I will post photos then. Basicly they are the curved end of factory T/C welded to tube with internal thread that matches a "hip joint" off an old Triumph (I believe). All can be duplicated by you.

Square ported headers to square, or round ported heads. Round ported headers only to round ported heads. Engine displacement makes no difference, only head design.

Got me thinking about the old days now. At one time patternmakers were probably the most respected of tradesmen. To create the tools of the industrial revolution using knifes, abrasives, glue, wax, putty, wood, plastic leather, etc was realy a mind blower! Then came computers and numericaly controlled milling machines. At first it was wonderful, slap a piece of metal on the machine and make something more precise in less time! But I left the trade when patternmakers became just programmers, and now they aren't even programmers because the CAD-CAM software does it for you. It's a trade that lost it's soul, it's no longer an art, only a video game.

Thank you Alan. Why have I noticed that you know things (like about my R-190, foundry nails) but DON'T tell right away? Huh? Why? My guess is your testing others first before parting with your (hard earned) knowledge first. Making people think? Thats un-American! Wait, your in the U.K., then it's O.K. How's your baby coming along? I've seen the body is going well. Got an engine going togrther yet? Later, Pancho

Guys, I spent most of my better years (younger) as a patternmaker. I was the guy that made cylinder heads/ blocks/wheels/ every kind of metal cast part----all out of wood (master patterns). I can't get to much information from the pictures, but I'm guessing that we are looking at chaplets, or nails. NAILS IN MY ENGINE!!??!! Yes. The engine block was formed by a cope and a drag pattern which formed the two main halves of the sand mold. Into the main mold halves went various other pieces of sand produced by coreboxes. These cores formed the cylinders, water jackets, some oil passages, and any areas that needed to be reorrientated in order to mold (patterns must always be larger at the BOTTOM than the top. "draft". Coreboxes must always be larger at the TOP than the bottom). Anyway, in the foundry some of the cores can be glued together and some must be "hung" from the top (cope) half of the mold. Those cores would be drilled with a wire and than a nail would be inserted (usually at an angle) to hold core in place. Though you can see parts of the nails (that area that was core sand) the ends are now part of the iron engine block. If you broke one of these don't worry. If you can get loose pieces out than go ahead.

What am I thinking! Never mind! I got the motion of bellcrank backwards. Dooh!

Guys, Just be careful that at full throttle opening the belcrank is still moving towards the carb throttle linkage!!!! If not, the harder you push your throttle pedal you'll actually start closing the carbs down.