SteveJ

I'm hoping he watches the video because I show how it should be wired. If it's wired correctly, then we can proceed with diagnostics.

Are you sure your rubber hoses are in good condition? Cracks in the hoses, either in the engine bay or near the tank, could allow air into the hoses. This could prevent the fuel pump from pumping. Don't forget to prime the fuel pump, too, if it's been dry for a while.

I needed a break from work today, so I went down to the garage. (I do enjoy work-from-home.) I don't know if these photos will help much. It was a challenge getting the camera inside the door. Inside leading edge of the door - you can see the lower two bolts. Lower edge of what I assume is the reinforcement panel Near the door latch It only took a couple of minutes to remove the door card, and no door cards were harmed in the process of getting these photos.

I doubt it. The gas would replace the carb cleaner shortly after starting.

I used carburetor cleaner recently to spray down the vent lines. That works, too.

And this is what I was hinting at with my first post. An emissions station cannot ask you to add equipment to your car that does not conform to how the car was equipped when it left the factory. As an aside, California took that to the extreme. I remember seeing newspaper automotive help columns that pointed out that you couldn't put fuel injection on a car that left the factory with a carburetor, even if it lowered emissions. It wouldn't pass the visual inspection. (I hope that has changed.) And aftermarket parts would need a C.A.R.B sticker, otherwise you would fail.

You are obviously under the mistaken impression that my door cards are in great shape.

If I can remember, I can probably take the door panel off this weekend to peek inside.

Here's what it looks like with the bolts in place. I wasn't looking for what it might be connected to, but I'm guessing that @zKars is on the mark.

I think this illustrates @mailnome's point.

See if this video helps.

He would never do it. The Supremes don't do pub crawls.

https://www.zcar.com/threads/1978-280z-california-or-no.407281/

First, are you really in Pennsylvania? Does the car say it is a California spec or Federal spec? Only the California spec should have a catalytic converter. Anyway, look at part #68 on this page: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/exhaust-tube-muffler/california

Replace the rings. Use connectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pupilash-Terminal-Insulated-Electric-Connector/dp/B08T5P9Y2N For the green wire in the harness use a female connector and a male connector on the red wire on the pump. Use a male connector on the black wire in the harness and a female connector on the black wire on the pump. Put some dielectric grease on both male connectors. To crimp the connectors, I recommend a ratcheting crimper like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/

What year Z? Put the year of your car in the signature. Click on your username in the top right corner of the screen. On the left hand side of the new screen, you will see Signature. Click on that and add the year of your car to the signature block. Save it, and in future posts we will know what year car you need help with.

@Zed Head is correct on the wiring. Car yellow to new connector green Car white/black to new connector yellow. Here's a photo from my 73.

You gave enough details to get a good guess. I'm glad it was that easy.

That's right. There should be 4 screws, but you only have 3 when you twist the head off one. That happened when I changed bulbs 22 years ago. Why did I need to change bulbs? I put in a new alternator and didn't know it was internally regulated. I was checking my new relay setup and running the car to test the new alternator. I measured the voltage at the battery and saw 17 volts! Before I could turn off the car, the passenger headlight went *poof*! A little research on Zhome.com, and I figured out my problem, and bypassed the voltage regulator.

I have been caught out in weather conditions in the summer where I needed the defrost function. Don't be too quick to say you won't ever need it.

You may end up bypassing that relay if all else fails. You can also test to see if that's the problem by using a voltmeter. Measure voltage to ground on each side of the relay. The black/yellow should be carrying voltage to the relay, and I think it might be a yellow wire exiting the relay. Anyway, that wire exiting the relay is the one that goes to the solenoid. The wiring diagrams I have aren't great about showing the wire colors there.

Are you trying to start the car without the seat belt buckled? For the automatic, there is a relay in the circuit. It's located near the voltage regulator.

I was looking for a garage project this weekend, so I decided to go ahead and install some Hella H4 housings with LED bulbs in the 240Z to replace the old Victoria British/Black Dragon Auto generic H4 housings with halogen bulbs. I have the generic H4 housings with LED bulbs in the 260Z, but I wanted to see if I got a better beam pattern with the Hella housings. I think the Hellas look better/more appropriate for the Z, too. I even shot some video in case someone needed some more information on how to change headlight bulbs on an S30, not that it's a big challenge. Anyway, the video should be available now.

You are welcome. I just ask that you pay it forward to others when you have the chance.