SteveJ

The only time I had a problem with being short-shipped, a call to customer service cleared it up. I haven't had any problems with their parts so far, either.

It probably is the same unit for a 77 or 78 since they had the same tank.

Use flux, plenty of heat and a heat sink to protect the insulation. That will give you a long lasting solder joint.

Chris, The main difference between cast iron and steel is the amount of carbon in it. IMHO, $100 is too high for cast iron and too low for aluminum. If he can get aluminum, you've struck a goldmine since they have been NLA for a while. You can get cast iron from Rock Auto for about $30 each when you apply a discount code that you can find online. You can check here to see if the aluminum drums are available yet.

My question back to you is Why do you want to draw in air from the hottest part of the engine bay? By the way, the redneck way is to cut the air horns out of the air cleaner and use those underneath the filter.

Okay, I was wondering why your post made it sound more difficult than it was.

I'm not sure what you are asking. The thread you referenced discussed aftermarket belts that I have used, and I described how they are mounted. The retractor for these belts mount to the ceiling. They don't need a well since they aren't on the floor. If you can turn a wrench, you can mount the belts. If you can figure out things, it won't take long to remove the old belts and install the new ones. If you want non-retracting Nissan belts, I have a set of those in a box in my garage. They aren't identical to the original belts, but they are genuine Nissan parts. Send me a PM if you're interested in those.

I would go with Dave's suggestion first.

Did you relace the WHOLE switch or just the portion in back? I know I saw some posts within the last few months with regard to problems with the ignition switch.

I don't know. Have you been to all of the parts places in your area? Of course, by the time you spend the gas &/or time, you could have ordered it online.

The bulb is a 3898 bulb, aka BA7 base.

You should have 12VDC+ on the green wire.

You are crossing your circuits. The two fuses on the right are your headlight fuses. The left and right headlights are fused separately. The turn signals are powered through the ignition fuse. It's the 3rd fuse on the left. You have a lot of inspecting of your wiring to do. About 16 years ago, I made the same boneheaded mistake. I had to splice in 3 feet of wiring in the engine harness to replace what burned up.

It's not like there are that many 240Zs listed on eBay with a seller in Springfield, Oregon. I found it easily enough.

Um, I put in a ZX alternator in my 73 in 2001. The ammeter works just the way it's supposed to. Check the more recent posts on this subject. I don't know where the idea that the gauge doesn't work came from, but it isn't correct.

Well, you've proven that the pop was from the ammeter and that you're probably at least a little dangerous when it comes to electricity. At least the 22 AWG wire would probably have functioned similar to a fusible link. Please do not drive your car around until you fix your electrical issues, or at least carry about a fire extinguisher or two that is rated for electrical & gasoline fires. It could save you from losing your car.

Not quite right. The positive and negative leads on the ammeter need to be jumpered out. Replacing/repairing the ammeter is an even better solution. The positive is a white wire, and the negative is a white/red wire. Use a 10 AWG wire since the wire would be carrying a significant amount of current. By the way, I don't recommend this action unless you are fairly compentent with wiring. If the wiring comes loose and touches ground, you could have an electrical fire, especially since you don't think you have fusible links in place. Another user on here has used Bob's Speedometer to repair his tachometer. They do other gauges as well. You could also try Zbarn for a replacement ammeter.

The pop was most likely your ammeter. With the alternator shorted to ground, you had a large current flowing through the ammeter when you hit your starter, blowing it up. Your description was excellent in describing what still worked. From the battery, the cable goes to the starter. It would normally go from there to the fusible link, which you suspect is missing, and on to the fusebox. In the fusebox, it goes to the horn and brake lights. Another branch on the circuit goes through the ammeter to power the rest of the circuits. If you take out the ammeter, you kill the car.

As long as you're answering questions... Why is the sky blue? Did Ted Turner really invent color? Why are hotdogs sold in packs of 10, yet hotdog buns are sold in packs of 8?

Be sure to search on this site. There are plenty of posts on headlights. Dave Irwin & I have described the circuit ad nauseum.

Did you look at the FSM on the page I referenced? Did you not notice the connector that the gauge was plugged into? Did you not have to unplug the gauge to be able to test it with a 9 volt battery? Either you are asking for a lot of spoonfeeding, or you are leaving out a lot of details.

You should have 12VDC to ground at one of the pins in that connector if you do the test as I described above. It is a 4 pin connector. One pin goes to the oil pressure sensor. One pin goes to the temperature sensor. One pin is the ground for the light bulb. The fourth pin is your 12VDC source for the gauges. I cannot tell you which pin it should be since the colors denoted on BE-3 (not BE-2 as I stated earlier) do not match the wiring diagram on BE-5. Have the ammeter/fuel gauge installed when you test for voltage.

And did you use a voltmeter to check the connector in the wiring harness?

What about the Temp gauge? Did it work with the 9V battery? Finish the diagnostics I listed before to confirm the diagnosis. You could have two separate problems and not realize it.

Plasti-dip or Plasti-dip spray?