SteveJ

The two ways a diode can fail: Open or Closed. Open: Detection - You will see infinite resistance (OL) no matter what orientation you use with your meter leads. (Always try both directions.) Result - The alternator won't charge. Closed: Detection - You will see zero (0) resistance no matter what orientation you use with your meter leads. (Always try both directions.) Result - The alternator will charge, and the car will probably try to keep running with the key off since this will backfeed the ignition circuit.

Try swapping the leads around where you got the open line. Diodes will block a resistance reading on a meter if you have the leads reversed.

I have seen the diode fail open in that design before. That would keep the car from charging. Also, if the ignition fuse in the fuse box is blown, it won't charge. The test I asked @Zedyone_kenobi to perform would help to identify those problems.

The problem is that I don't see the results of the tests I suggested you do.

There is no lamp on a 71. On the original 71 alternator, it would be a field wire and alternator neutral on the T plug going to the external VR. Since the car is modified, the field wire is jumpered to the ignition wire, and the neutral wire is jumpered to the battery wire.

The signal wire should have battery voltage. The ignition wire should have no voltage with the key in OFF, and it should have battery voltage with the key in ON.

12.3 volts while running tells me that there is a problem. However, diagnosis is not complete. Have you verified the signals for the sense and ignition inputs? Those are the two wires going to the T plug on the back of the alternator.

There are times to be pedantic. This isn't one.

Black/yellow - 12VDC switched from key in START. Black/white - 12VDC switched from ignition relay. The ignition relay coil is energized by the key in ON.

Another great share, Alan. I caught a glimpse of the link to the article on Facebook, but I didn't have the time to click on it then. I know there are plenty of us who appreciate the chance to understand what was different in other markets and why. Thank you @JDMjunkies.ch for making the time to write the article.

That reminds me of a joke. What do you call someone who speaks two languages? Bilingual What do you call someone who speaks several languages? Polygot What do you call someone who speaks one language? American

You can reach out to them on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/s30.world

@HS30-H Alan, I wasn't looking for diplomacy. I prefer accurate. I've been reading your posts long enough that as I read through the link, I thought there was something fishy about it. The first thing was that the pricing didn't seem to fit what I recalled hearing about the 432 or 432-R market.

A friend sent me a link to this 432 for sale. https://www.beforward.jp/nissan/fairlady-z/bx082542/id/10304275/ I would appreciate @kats and @HS30-H commenting on this one. I'm surprised at how few photos and most of poor quality for a 432. Does it look like a legitimate 432? Is this where the market is on 432s now?

MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas#:~:text=MAPP%20gas%20was%20widely%20regarded,America%20that%20still%20manufactured%20it.) My induction heater works nicely, especially in a tight spot.

Thanks for sharing that, Alan. It brightened up my morning.

It's good to see it when someone joins the forum and start off with a joke.

I think Auxito labels some as fog lights even though they work as headlights. The one I used in the past is NLA, so I was guessing on the new part number. The one you listed will probably work, too.

That would be my first guess, too. It's been so long since I got rid of the 73 bumpers that I don't recall the exact differences in construction between it an the earlier style bumper that were needed to accommodate the sturdier bumper mounts.

@Mike The Koitos do show up. They actually have a Toyota part number: 81110-60P70 because they are sold as a conversion kit for the Land Cruiser. They come with a relay kit and H4 halogen bulbs. I tossed the relay kit and halogen bulbs, and it was still cheaper than getting some Hella H4 housings. If you do a Google search on the part number, you should be able to find them.

I have QuickJacks, too. They aren't as fast as ramps, but they can raise all four corners. They came in handy when I needed to replace a bad transmission and replace suspension bushings. You need wall space to store them. I mounted a 2x6 board to about 3 or 4 studs and mounted the hangers on the 2x6. When I got mine, one of the pistons was faulty (not uncommon), but they sent a replacement that I received a week later.

What I liked about the Race Ramps over the Rhino Ramps is that it is easier for me to get under the car. If you're skinny & don't have a lowered car/air dam, Rhino Ramps are fine. The Harbor Freight version of Rhino Ramps will be on sale April 7-14 for about $45. The 7-10th are for Inside Track members. https://www.harborfreight.com/6500-lb-capacity-portable-ramp-set-2-piece-63956.html

I have owned these 2-piece Race Ramps for 12 years: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZAHTC4 The 67 inch is nice if you have a lowered car or front air dam. As for being sturdy, I used them when changing the oil on a 2024 Frontier Pro-X with no issues. The curb weight of that model is 4565lbs.

I'm not sure what you mean, @Mike. The info on ZCON.org is correct.

Nope. Look for ATL before the end of the decade, at least that's what my sources are suggesting. Here's the ZCON site: https://zcon.org/conventions/2025/