SteveJ

Actually, look at BE-17. It gives you a breakout of just the dash lights. For the 280Z, it's the top fuse on the right. In the 260Z & 280Z for some reason, it wasn't the fuse box melting as much as it was green/white wire overheating at the connector.

Get involved with your local Z club. Compared to most of the rest of the country, you're in the Mecca for the Z car scene. If you can't find someone local, you're not trying.

Look at the BE section of the FSM. It will have a breakout for the circuit. I don't have time to look at it right now, but that is the best source to figure out how to test the circuit in the car. By the way, are the running lights turning on?

How anxious are you about getting this fixed? I'm tied up for the next couple of weeks, but I might be able to help you after that.

IMHO the fuel injection system in the Z isn't that difficult to get into a good working order. I've helped a few people get their systems working correctly electrically just by reading the manual and guiding them on troubleshooting. I have never even worked on the Z fuel injection.

As indicated the alternator is putting out TOO MUCH VOLTAGE when the engine is at speed. That could be caused by a bad voltage regulator, a bad alternator, or it could be caused by someone matching an internally regulated alternator with a voltage regulator.

Yes, that is the high voltage or high side of the coil.

From that description, I doubt it's the coil. There are no moving parts, so it wouldn't decline in performance like that. Check the resistance from the positive to negative terminals. Then check the resistance from the high side of the coil to the negative terminal. The low side should be around 3 to 4 ohms, and the high side should be over 9,000 ohms.

Where in Georgia are you?

Are you sure all of the wiring to the ignition box and tachometer are correct and good? Either one could cause it not to run. You could wire in an HEI as a temporary to test to see if it's the ignition box. Note: Disconnect the ignition box while running that test. An HEI is a relatively cheap test. You can get them for $12 plus shipping from Rockauto.

Let's go back. You've made some electrical changes. Please identify all of the modifications you've made to the wiring, whether or not you think it will affect the running of the car. Have you done any basic testing? Do you have 12 VDC to the ballast resistor with the key in the ON position?

I have to take that back. It doesn't. I have to stop answering questions when I don't get much sleep the night before. If the interlock relay affected the running of the car, the emergency button wouldn't work.

Yes, it does.

I'm glad you found the links useful. Phil, aka Blue, inspired me with all of the tech tips he created on his club's website.

With the help of a couple of great people, I changed the front struts, springs and ball joints. I used the Chevette springs, cutting 2.5 coils. It looks like I need to cut 3 in the front. Next week will be the rear springs & struts.

Do you have a ballast resistor? Is it a 4 wire or 3 wire tach?

Try Zspecialties: Z Specialties

One issue that I believe is happening is that you have an 1156 bulb where you need an 1157 bulb. That is why everything lights up when the parking lights are on. As you may notice the 1156 has one contact at the bottom, whereas the 1157 has two. Did your side markers light up with the hazard switch? That would be another indicator of the wrong type light bulb in a socket. Another issue you may have is a problem with your hazard switch. The circuits for the turn signals and your brakes go through the hazard switch. When the hazard switch is on, the circuits for the brake lights and turn signals are interrupted. When the hazard switch is off, the circuits are supposed to be restored. However in an older switch, the contacts may be too dirty or may have moved slightly. Here are a couple of references on the subject: Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars I suggest you remove your hazard switch and make sure there is continuity between the two green wires (with no stripe). If not, there is your issue.

Did you replace the alternator at the same time?

Put in a thermostat. The cooling system is designed to have that restriction in there.

Why do you want underdrive pulleys?

PM sent.

I know a guy in Lawrenceville who could weld it for you. He's a Z guy, too.

And I found this, too...Cable Ties & Accessories | Parts | Panduit

I got close...McMaster-Carr Look at the panel mounted ties.