SteveJ

If you have the polarity swapped on the coil, it will cut down on its efficiency, but it would still work.

In the drawing I was referencing, I did not see any wire gauges specified, nor did I see anything about wire gauge in the other thread.

There is a problem with that drawing. No wire gauge is specified for the added wire that has a 30A fuse. First, even if you used that fuse to power both headlights, you wouldn't need more than a 15A fuse. Second, if you use anything less than 10 AWG, the fuse will not protect the wiring in the event of a short circuit.

If you have a bad tach, a friend of mine (and member here ) got the tach for his 260Z rebuilt here: http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/index.asp He was pleased with the work.

As Zed Head said, look at the EE section of the FSM. You also have a Transistor Ignition Unit (TIU) in the cabin. It's located on the passenger side kick panel. It's difficult to miss. What concerns me is that in the last picture, there is a non-factory crimped lug on one of the reluctor wires. How about some history on the car? Did it ever run?

A few years back, someone was trying to figure out why his LED headlights wouldn't work. I told him it was a polarity issue. I can't remember if he was using the Truck-Lite version or another.

If the LED headlight is designed for the common wire to be negative, you'll need to do a relay conversion to get them to work.

I believe there is going to be a screening at ZCON.

I have some of these sitting in my garage: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VUEDXY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VUASBK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage They are a similar form factor to those relays.

It's good to see you got out of that one without much in the way of injuries. Was there enough left over after the fire for a post mortem?

I changed the bulb sockets for the center stack gauges to wedge sockets and added LED bulbs. I also added some insulation to reduce the amount of air coming through the upper vents when the slider is in the HEAT or DEF positions.

Wendy & I are looking forward to see you again, Philip. We can always encourage Janet & Wendy to hang out with each other so the guys can all get together and grunt around the cars.

MSA unit=Dave Irwin

I'm not sure if you can find an ignition relay for a 79. I constructed a replacement for a 79 ignition relay for a friend who was working on a customer's car.

I ended up making my own for my 260Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/ It's not perfect, but it looks a lot better than with the old 260Z bumper.

Door jamb plate: http://zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php

Good point. Actually, when I received my Hagerty renewal, there was a question about increasing the value. Considering what I've seen for Z car prices lately, I thought it might be a good idea. Of course, if I lost one of my Zs, I would probably just put my time and effort into the other instead of buying another one.

Tony D used that on Zcar.com very frequently. I adopted it myself.

That is correct.

RockAuto has a lot of different choices for brands of condensers.

He has hands like Andre the Giant. The vacuum advance didn't stand a chance.

A bad cell in a battery can be a PITA to diagnose. I had that one time. The multimeter said 12 VDC, but when I turned the key, voltage dropped to 0.

IMHO, go with the most rust-free car you can find and afford. That will probably be the easiest to do whatever you desire to do. I haven't met an S30 that I didn't like, even the 2+2.

That was a way of getting 15 inch wheels.

Diet Dew & BBQ.