SteveJ

LED bulbs in H4 housings are next on my list to try. I have the bulbs. I have an extra set of H4 housings. I just have to move it up the priority list.

Follow up: It is running now. As I mentioned previously, I found some good diagnostics on the TBI. I checked for 12VDC at the injectors - Good. I unplugged the TPS to clear codes in case the ECU locked in that it was flooded. I tried using an ohmmeter to look for a grounding pulse on the injector with the meter...As I cranked, it sounded like the engine wanted to fire, so I kept cranking until it fired. The engine ran briefly on one injector, dying soon after I stopped cranking. I plugged in the rear injector lead and tried again. No start. I unplugged the rear injector again and got the engine to run briefly, but it died again when I plugged the rear injector lead back in. I unplugged the front injector lead and got the engine to run. I played with the throttle to keep it running while I plugged in the front injector lead, and it kept running with both injectors. My stress level dropped significantly. I should probably invest in a noid light kit. Anyway, I attached a document I created that has the images of the pinouts for the ECU and some of the diagnostics I was trying when I got the car to run. @Zed Head, I thought it might pique your curiosity. TBI Diagnostics.docx

There is plenty online on the GM TBI. One site had the pinouts for the ECU and different threads on diagnosing "no pulse" conditions. It gives me a place to start.

So I swapped out the distributor. The spark is stronger and more consistent, but still no start. It started to catch when I was dumping a lot of starting fluid into the throttle bodies while holding the throttle open, so now I'm suspecting a lack of fuel. I'm going to see about the diagnostics on the GM TBI system.

There might be someone who lives in about an hour away from you who knows about installing relays.

And I went down to the car to check the stator. In the 260Z, it moves around with not much force. I'm going to swap it with another ZX distributor I have on hand. Thanks for your help, guys.

Well, maybe that will show up in further diagnostics, but I agree with you about the trigger problem. The spark looks great WHEN IT HAPPENS! It's a rebuilt distributor installed within the last 5 years or so. You never know what they replaced during the rebuild. I have another distributor I can throw in if needed. @Patcon I don't think that is possible in this case. The problem started without pulling the distributor or rotor. Only the cap was removed without pulling wires and put back in place.

Unless you have relays in the headlight circuit, the issue is that your voltage is too low. I have played around with different types of headlights. I have standard H4 lights at the moment, but the stock wiring is now controlling relays, and I have power for the lights going through the relays instead of the headlight switch. Just a couple of volts increase can make a world of difference in lighting. You'll find that you won't get much more light from the higher wattage bulbs until you address the voltage problem. By the way, I hope that is a typo and you ordered 7" housings.

So to investigate the spark more, I shot some video of the #1 plug wire pulled, #2 plug wire pulled, and coil wire pulled. When I was looking at the spark from the coil wire earlier I was sitting in the car. This time I was able to see it up close. It looks like I'm not getting a good spark. (and that's with the replacement ignition module) Not dead, but not as alive as it should be.

You would think. On the other hand, I did see a spark from the coil wire to the shock tower when I pulled the coil wire, and I did see indication of spark with the timing light and inline-spark checker. So why would a spark not be a spark?

Even if the ECU isn't getting the trigger, the engine doesn't attempt to fire with starting fluid.

I checked compression. I have one low cylinder, but I didn't pull the valve cover to check the valves for that cylinder. I installed the NGK 7133 plugs (Those are the ones for the 280ZX, since I'm running the ZX distributor/ignition module) and tried to fire it up. It sounded like it was close. Tried again with starter fluid, but no change. I replaced the rotor, cap, and ignition module. Sprayed in starter fluid. No change.

The CTS has a good connection. I verified spark from the coil by placing the wire near the shock tower, and I saw a good spark. I took off the air filter and sprayed starting fluid down the throttle bodies, but it acts like no spark despite my other observations.

Background: 260Z with a 2.8L engine, Maxima 2.4L head, ZX ignition, GM TBI fuel injection with SU carburetors converted to throttle bodies The car ran fine last Saturday. I pulled it out of the garage and parked it back in the garage about an hour later. I don't recall anything strange happening. Yesterday, I took off the distributor cap to take some pictures of the coolant temperature sensor. I put the cap back on after I finished taking pictures. Today: I went to start the car. I primed the fuel pump (audible) and tried starting. When it didn't fire, I thought to check the coil wire to the cap. I tried again with the coil wire connected, but it still didn't start. I re-seated the cap, checked the coil wire again, and hooked up a meter to check voltage at the coil. I could smell some fuel coming out the exhaust, too. There was good voltage at the coil. I hooked up a battery charger and put it in Start mode to make sure the battery voltage wasn't dropping too much during cranking. I also tried starting fluid. Still nothing. Wondering if I fried the ignition module, I hooked up the timing light to cylinder #6 so I could look for spark while cranking. The light indicated spark while cranking. I left the car on the battery charger while I ran an errand. When I got back, I had the wife turn the key while monitoring the timing light on #1 against the timing mark. I also used starting fluid. Timing was right, but still no fire. Wondering if the plugs might be too fouled, I changed them out, putting NGK 7131s (not 7133). The old plugs were somewhat fouled, but I've seen worse. No fire with the new plugs. I also checked spark with the timing light on #1 and an inline spark checker on #2. The glow on #2 looked good, and the timing light still lit up. Still no fire. Bottom line: I have fuel, spark, and timing. I will verify compression, but I'm not sure how it would fail suddenly. What am I missing here? I will also try NGK 7133 plugs as soon as I can get them.

When you're looking at how to integrate the wiring, let me know. By the way, one challenge you will face is the placement of the air intake/air filter. The 280Z core support is different from the 260Z. The 260Z does not have the opening for air intake plumbing to pass through. A friend found this out during his conversion.

What kind of fuel injection are you thinking of using?

I also utilized a lot of the stock wiring to integrate my signals from the ECU and its relays for power to the ECU, power to the fuel pump, etc. For the check engine light, I repurposed the choke light.

I believe so. The line was removed, and the port in the t-stat housing was plugged prior to my purchase of the car. I did the Patton Machine fuel injection last year and found that port handy for coolant temperature sensor.

For my FI project, I used a 1/2 BSP to 3/8 NPT adapter on the thermostat housing.

Try Easydrive France instead. http://www.easydrivefrance.com/easydrivefrance_009.htm

I received a package from them just yesterday that was ordered earlier in the week, so I would say they are still in business. Send me a PM with your email address, and I'll send it to someone I know who works there.

Oh, I also found I had 2 sets of Nissan hoses...in addition to the set I just purchased...And I'm still trying to figure out why I took a camshaft someone offered me...at least I think it was given to me...I don't recall buying a camshaft...or that Helix fuel line (According to Amazon that was 3 years ago.)

So I went digging through my carburetor parts in my parts storage today. (Something I should have done months ago.) I found some black Helix Racing Products 3/16 ID x 5/16 OD fuel line. At 3/16 ID, it's a tight fit on the float bowls, but it should work. https://www.helixracingproducts.com/316x-3-fuel-line-black https://www.amazon.com/Helix-Racing-Fuel-Line-Black/dp/B000WK5J0Y It did not kink at a bend radius of less than an inch. It's stiffer than the Nissan hoses, so I will put it on a spare set of carburetors to see if it binds the nozzles. It is tolerant to 10% ethanol and is less than $10 for 3 feet.

From the 73 FSM - Dot 3

Meet or exceed the SAE spec. (from the FSM)