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SteveJ last won the day on November 21 2018

SteveJ had the most liked content!

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About SteveJ

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    Gainesville, GA

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    73 240Z<br /><br />
    74 260Z

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  1. SteveJ

    Relay Testing and Fuel pump help

    Now it looks as though you may have a 78 280Z. The PITA is that the wiring diagram doesn't have the pins numbered. There is some numbering on EF-26, so I will use that. Pins 73 & 74 are a coil. You should have some resistance. I don't have the spec for that coil handy, but I measured a couple of standard automotive relays. The coil on one relay measured about 83.6Ω, and the other was 78.7Ω Pins 90 and 91 also are for a coil. There should be resistance. Pins 94 to 95 I believe are for another coil. Again, you should have resistance. Pins 91 to 95 are for a normally closed contact. With the relay unplugged, you should have continuity (nearly 0Ω resistance) across those pins. Search through the old posts on this site. I know I have talked about these relays in the past. Oh, and clean your old connectors. Many people swear by Caig Deoxit.
  2. SteveJ

    Going ballistic...

    That is exactly the reason for the test I described. In this case, I chose a location in the middle of the circuit. If the first part of the test fails, the problem is between the key and coil. If the second part fails, the problem is between the coil and ground.
  3. SteveJ

    Going ballistic...

    So with the key in the on position, you should see somewhere around 9VDC from the coil negative to ground. Did you check the gap in the points? This is where an old-fashioned tach/dwell meter can come in handy. If you have voltage from coil negative to ground and no signal on the tach, you know that either the points aren't closing or that the ground for the points is bad/missing.
  4. SteveJ

    Going ballistic...

    First, what model Z do you have? Is it a North American, European, or JDM model? Here is a general test. If you have a digital voltmeter, put the positive lead on the negative terminal of the coil and the negative lead to ground. With the key on, it should read 9 to 12 volts. Have someone try to start the car while you are watching the voltmeter. If the voltage does not fluctuate significantly, you lost your trigger for spark. I'm not sure what distributor you have or what ignition source you have for your test right now.
  5. SteveJ

    Patton Machine Fuel Injection

    I took a closer look at the approximate values on the FSM chart and compared them to the GM data. The CHTS appears to run a little lower through the operating range (0 deg C to 80 deg C) than the GM sensor. However, a better evaluation would be to run the engine with the CHTS and monitor the resistance while taking temperature readings at the thermostat housing. If the CHTS resistance is too low through that range, I know it could be the source of problems with the fuel injection. The nice thing is that I can test on the car before I get the kit. The challenge with the GM coolant temperature sensor is to make sure it is immersed while using the adapter. Whatever the result, I get to learn something...and maybe the lessons learned will benefit our community.
  6. SteveJ

    Relay Testing and Fuel pump help

    First, let's go over terminology. This is important for clear communications. Voltmeter - Measures voltage (difference in potential) across a source or a load, such as across the terminals of a battery. Ammeter - Measures current flow through wires. Ohmmeter - Measures the resistance (opposition to current flow) of a load. VOM - Volt Ohm Meter: This is a meter designed to measure voltage or resistance Multimeter - A meter that at a minimum measures voltage, resistance, and current. Some multimeters can measure frequency or inductance, and others have functionality to test transistors. Autoranging - A VOM or multimeter that will automatically select the range for the display, going up or down orders of magnitude. Continuity - Continuous, as in a continuous piece of wire. Now let's talk about resistance. Wire has resistance. Connections have resistance. Both should be low enough that we can ignore it if things are in good working order. Even a VOM or multimeter has resistance. An air gap has very high resistance. If you are using a digital VOM/multimeter with autoranging, the first thing you do is set the meter to measure resistance. The display will typically show OL (open line), and there will probably be a capital M near the reading to show megaohms. Touch your leads together. The display should go down to less than 1, and the M should disappear. If the meter has a continuity buzzer, it should be buzzing at this time. Please note that the threshold for a continuity buzzer may be several ohms. The autoranging feature will change the display, possibly without you realizing it. It can go from megaohms, to kiloohms, and to ohms virtually instantly, so you have to watch for the M or K on the display. If you have to set the range manually on your VOM, start with the LOWEST range when you are checking for continuity. Touch the leads together and make sure the reading goes down to less than 1. If you are using a higher range, the display may read less than 1, but you could have a lot of resistance. My philosophy when checking continuity is to IGNORE THE CONTINUITY BUZZER. The value on the display is important. So go back and start over. Have a notepad with you to record readings. Also, where exactly are you placing the probes for the meter? Be specific so we can tell whether or not your technique is correct. Finally, what year Z do you have? There are differences, and if you need help, we need to know which FSM to refer to. Feel free to post a photo of your meter so we can verify what setting to use on the dial.
  7. SteveJ

    Patton Machine Fuel Injection

    One of the important things to integrate into the fuel injection ECU is the coolant temperature sensor. Since the 260Z doesn't have one, I need to figure out how to incorporate this sensor. Use a 280Z coolant temperature sensor in the port occupied by the temperature switch. (The consensus is that it won't fit.) Use a 3/8 BSPT male to 3/8 NPT female adapter to put the sensor in the port occupied by the temperature switch. (I got the adapter. It doesn't look like it will fit.) Use a 1/2 BSPT male to 3/8 NPT female adapter to put the sensor in the port that is currently plugged. (This still seems viable.) Take advantage of the CHTS port in the Maxima N47 head and use the Nissan CHTS in lieu of the coolant temperature sensor. In order to do number 4, I have to know whether the sensors have similar resistance curves. The 82 FSM EFEC section provided me the CHTS curve. Based upon a measurement I took today, I think the middle curve is the one I need to focus on. And a little searching on the interwebs gave me a data sheet on the GM coolant temperature sensor. Unless I am misinterpreting the FSM curve and the table, I believe I can use the CHTS for the temperature sensor data for the ECU.
  8. SteveJ

    Internal rivets

    And the genuine article from Courtesy Nissan: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-rivet-plastic-black-90909e4100 And Nissan Parts Deal: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-rivet-plastic~90909-e4100.html Tasca: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-rivet-plastic-black-90909e4100
  9. SteveJ

    Internal rivets

    So this got me looking on ebay. I found some panel rivet kits that have rivets in a similar size to the Z rivets. https://www.ebay.com/itm/690Pcs-Car-Auto-Push-Pin-Rivet-Trim-Fastener-Clip-Panel-Body-Interior-Assortment/254096165616?hash=item3b294fcaf0:g:bREAAOSwh99cSstW:rk:2:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/690pcs-Car-Automotive-Push-Pins-Rivet-Trim-Clip-Panel-Body-Kits-Assortment/173657019916?epid=21026357388&amp;hash=item286ec3d60c:g:0AAAAOSw6jJb-LiG:rk:3:pf:0 It looks like the Nissan part is designed for a 5mm hole, while the Ford (and many others on the market) appear to be designed for a 1/4 inch hole. And to make a correction, it looks like the BMW rivet is likely the correct width. Depth may still be an issue. Let us know if they work.
  10. SteveJ

    Internal rivets

    I measured what I believe to be a genuine Nissan panel rivet to compare to the measurements of the BMW part. The BMW part seems to be a little smaller. Those rivets may have issues with staying firmly in the anchor points. The measurements for the Nissan part numbers are in blue.
  11. SteveJ

    Internal rivets

  12. SteveJ

    Six Generations of Z's at Dallas Autorama 2019

    I miss going to that show.
  13. SteveJ

    Thread Size for Sensor

    Thanks for the offer, Bruce. I have the fitting on order. I'm trying to line up all the support parts I may need so I don't have as much down time on the Z. I even have the 3 screw carburetors sitting in my garage, waiting for the conversion. I sent the check a month ago for the fuel injection kit. It won't be shipped for about another month. I'm guessing a lot of British sports car fans want a winter project, too.
  14. SteveJ

    I've been looking for a project

    It could be a bad distributor cap, too. When I was buying the 260Z, the guy was knocking $700 off the price since it wouldn't run. It turned out that it was just a bad distributor cap. I put on a new cap and got the car running.
  15. SteveJ

    Thread Size for Sensor

    I should add that I also bought a CHTS to play with since I have the N47 Maxima head. I'll find out if the 280ZX CHTS fits.

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