mayolives

The last time I needed padding for a "Z" tank, I visited a Hobby Lobby store and found the material that I needed. Not sure in what department or what the original intended purpose was for the material, but it was rubber like in came in larger pieces that needed to be trimmed to size.

View Advert Need A Good S30 Hood I would like to find a good S30 hood for my 260Z. Advertiser mayolives Date 10/16/2022 Price $0.01 Category Parts Wanted Year 74 Model 260Z

White Post Restorations – Fine Automobile Restorations & Brake Cylinder Solutions My buddy used their services to repair brakes on a 30's Packard.

240 Zadmire ..........I'm impressed with how you just jumped there. I rebuilt a five speed last year and it took me at least two weeks of studying the fsm and finding out how to pull gears, etc. I was lucky enough to have a parts gear box that supplied some of the things I needed. I have a good four speed from a 73 240 but I'm in SC. I'm sure you can find what you need there on the "left" coast.

QUOTE: The trans is totally toasted or still salvageable? You have a job ahead of you but you should be able to find the parts needed. The gear box will have to be removed and pulled apart in order to know what it needs. If you are mechanically inclined there is lots of good information here on the site and at other sites that can guide you through the process. Also, this will be a good time to replace your clutch, pressure plate, through-out bearing and rear main seal. It's not an easy job but other than replacing your transmission with another good one, and they are becoming difficult to find, it's about your only way to get back in the seat.

I have used this cloth type many times. Looks good and doesn't make sticky mess when removed. Amazon has it. Wire Harness Automotive Cloth Tape - Adhesive High Noise Resistance Heat Proof Chemical Fiber Fabric Electrical Tape for Wrapping Wiring Harness/Insulation/Car Engine (0.75″82′Pack of 1 Piece)

I have been ask to help install a Holley 4 Barrel 8006/390 carburetor and it's linkage on a Clifford intake. The car is a 73 240Z. A Lokar throttle linkage kit was purchased from MSA. If my memory serves me, the Clifford intake has provisions for a water lines. Where should I connect the water lines going to and from the intake? Also, can I mount the carburetor in either direction, front to back or sideways. I have an Arizona Z Car intake with a Holley mounted transverse (side to side) on my 260Z. My intake is open where the Holley mounts to it and does not have a divider. Is the Clifford open on top like my AZC intake? Any other thoughts on this Clifford intake that might help? I have searched the internet and other Z car sources to no avail.

l Last year I purchased Carquest calipers from Advance Auto for my 73 240. The fit right and worked well.

I haven't been able to open Hybridz.org for the past two days. Error message..can't open. Anyone else? We're sorry, but a temporary technical error has occurred which means we cannot display this site right now. No connection could be made because the target machine actively refused it. You can try again by clicking the button below or try again later.

Thanks! Installing it against the header made sense to me but my brain is getting old and can be fuzzy at times.

Ther are several z cars that are selling for parts at....... face book groups..... datsun z parts buy sell needs

I'm installing a Nissan OEM intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Haven't used one in years. One side of the gasket has wide metal pieces (tabs) around the exhaust openings. Do I install this side facing the exhaust header?

I have the probe style controller with fan mounted in front of the radiator. My 3.1L stroker stays cool on the street here in hot and sunny Myrtle Beach. The controller is adjustable and was from Jegs or Summit. It's worked well for several years.

Although I didn't comment as I followed this thread for months, it seams like you have picked up a bunch of basic knowledge pertaining to you car. Good on you! Did you have any problems reinstalling the timing cover, in particular it's gasket, due to not removing your oil pan? Also, your "under hood" and engine area is looking good.

I have gone through several test that were spoon feed to me in order to locate my short that continued to blow the fusable link related to the ignition system. Sure enough these resistance test led me back to where the trouble started. That was the area of the new fast ignition system that I had installed. I discovered a black ground wire that was attached to the base of the distributor was attached to a hot wire that was activated when the ignition was switched to the on position. It had a bullet connector that I had mated to black w/ blue stripe wire. Also, I discovered my new coil was not connected to any power source from the cars electrical system. After looking at the diagrams in the EE section of my FSM, I still can't determine where several wires in this area belong. I have colored wires that don't match the ones in the FSM and still need some advice. In the photo below there are five wires. Moving from left to right (front to back) I have listed the colors. black w/ white stripe ( has blue shrink wrap on end)... It is hot when key is in on position. green (has blue shrink wrap on end) black w/ blue stripe It is hot when key is in on position. blue white I have reconnected everything in the footwell of the cabin except the ignition module. Two of these wires must have gone to that module, and I will need a power source to the coil. Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

One can't have too many tools!

So looks like these connections are located under the right footwell. I do have the 78 FSM but at times, especially when dealing with wiring items, it reads to my dumb arse like hieroglyphics. Thank you for your help.

Is this measurment taken from the actual fuse holder where I removed the blown fuse? Do you mean the side of the fuse closest to the front of the car? Wher are connectors c-3 and c-2 I suspect that you guys are correct on this one. A few more test hopefully will tell the story!

I disconnected the ignition relay and the new 30amp fuse blew out when I moved the ignition key to the on position. Although I didn't check the wiring from the ignition switch as New Zed suggested, I did install a complete new switch and cleaned up the combination switch connections. I want to work on one possible area at a time in order to not confuse the situation. I'm not sure where to go from here. Even after decades of playing with z cars, my understanding of electrical testing is not good. I've installed painless harnesses by following instructions and can usually wire most things from one point to another buy I'm dumb as a rock about relays, etc. I do have a good digital multimeter and a power probe III. I'll need some "spoon feeding" in order to trace this problem.

Well.....Excuuuuuuse me.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/classic-cars/a35432585/datsun-240z-fairlady-z432r-history/

This is an originia five speed car sold new in CA. Sounds like I need to start with the ignition switch and then the ignition relay and go from there.

I did try to start the car today but had a fuse problem. I'm using some in-line fuses to replace the original fusible links and as soon as I moved the ignition switch to the on position (not the start position) the front inside fusible link position blew the 30 amp fuse that was installed. I tried again with a 40 amp fuse with the same result. I know that position on the fusible link block controls the ignition switch. Should I try a higher rated fuse? Was the 40 amp one strong enough to support the ignition system? I'm reluctant to go much higher and then do damage. This car has be setting for a couple of years. The ignition switch doesn't move very smoothly so I suspect it my be causing this problem. I do have a new ignition switch on my shelf but I don't like tossing parts at a problem before I have an understanding of the cause. Any thoughts?

Following SteveJ's and Zed Head's advice. I disconnected the ignition module in the passenger foot well and removed the green and black w/ white stripe ones at my coil. Also, I took a closed look at the Fast ignition module instructions and discovered that the original ignition module needed to be disconnected. I sure missed that when I installed the system. Also I discovered that when I was testing my fusible link connections, my headlight switch was turned to the on position for the parking light setting and the wiper switch is now stuck in place and is set on the first on position. I'll need to address the wiper switch (combination switch) situation after I get this thing running. This was Zed Head's response to me asking what the "small box with six sides" was that is mounted near the coil. Should I disconnect the wiring for this trigger now that I have the Fast system installed? I haven't tried to get the car running yet but I believe I'm getting close to this point.

SteveJ...........Per your advice, sounds like I should disconnect my ignition module and test from there. I'm supprised that Fast's instructions didn't give me a heads up about this. They only mentioned bypassing all ballast resistance. Is disconnecting the TIU just as simple as unplugging it?