HusseinHolland

Ran the engine today, dash frame with harness in place to check systems there is a problem with the idle control - idle rpm is way too high for any modulation. Pretty sure there is a passage from the plenum side of the TB back through to the intake via the passages used for the factory BCDD system - openings in bottom area. I thought they were closed off, but too much air is bypassing the idle valve circuit. Pic from when I installed the TB - need to remove it & check the passageways

Modded mine today - enlarged hole carefully with die-grinder & half round file to clean it up. Went to 5.7" Fan cage can be angled in place 5.75" cage OD

If I were doing a resto & feeding a new harness, I would bite the bullet. Cutting a $49 grommet to fit around the old harness, I just can't bring myself to do it. I ordered an assortment of (ugly) generic grommets that cover the 60-70mm size range.

Right side vent & elbow duct arrived today - gave them a good clean Ran the 3 wires for the AC t/stat through the factory harness - there were 3 empty spots Dk Gn/Wh, Gn, Gn/Wh Cleaned up & applied rust convertor to the air intake flange Blower casing together, flex coupling in place. Closed cell foam to seal each junction

Couldn't find one on Zcar for the 280 - so I looked at the JDM link - $49(!) for a grommet, just a little pricy 🤪

I cut mine out, after checking that the hole was 2.5" - The Volvo one measured @ 2.4" in the lip, and the original appeared to be the same, but... once cut the new one is floppy in the hole 😞 VO 3515008 I'll have to order a proper one

Are we talking about the large grommet that the main harness passes through into the bay? Mine is torn, so I've been figuring out if I can use a Volvo grommet I already have. I would say the ones linked from Mouser are less than ideal - the factory grommets have a tube of sorts that allows for harness movement & also a downward angle on the bay side, to help keep water from tracking through to the cabin. I'm considering slicing the grommet, as I'm NOT removing the harness to feed through a new grommet. Not ideal, but better than a grommet with the torn 'tube' section.

pulled the compressor today, drained & flushed the Mineral oil out, added 5floz of Pag46 DS AC under dash vent arrived Bought Dayco 80165 1.25" ID hose (found it suggested on another Z forum) to cut & fit for the ducts

OK - thanks Steve Same overall dimensions as the 4 seasons one, so mine is not a quirk.

OK - I 'll mark it up carefully & see how it goes.

Did the resistor bridge today, and installed the Bosch coil original center post snapped off, so I riveted the spade tang to the bridge. Doesn't really matter since the coils gets full battery voltage at any of the connections

I see - my 75 didn't have any under dash panels, period. I was interpreting the schematic as illustrating complex bracketry for the floor panels - that would have sucked 😄

Thank you, Steve. Certainly better than nothing, just not clear Eurodats' pic from his 280Z

I've seen pics of interiors that have the trim panels under the pedals & covering the wiring on the right (for example in EuroDat's HEI conversion thread, pic showing his ICM wiring). I'm going to add them to my 75, I just can't find any pics that show the mounting point itself. Are they secured directly to the floor/bulkhead, are there raised mount tabs? If anyone has pics with the carpet out where the mounts are visible, that would be awesome. There are 3 mount points per side.

Worked on the power circuits today Organizing additional wiring, relay grounds Wired spare relay sockets with power & ground. Only 2nd from bottom is needed right now (AC-on blower fan override) Wiring secondary relay panel, additional 6 fuse panel, ground, 30 & 15 rails 15 rail is part of relay panel. Volvo inserted 3 rails in the relay/fuse panels. I kept this one. making sure that everything can be removed, and has enough cable slack to move out of the way as needed test fit again, re-wrapped harnesses, place CIS module

Pics of my box opening, stock motor cage & Kia (4Seasons) cage. Cages are not interchangeable, shaft design varies 5 3/8" opening Stock cage just under 5 1/4" Kia Cage 5 3/4" (!) 1/2" is too much meat to remove - the wall is pretty shallow in the 2 o'clock area above

The cages are not the same form factor. I'll take some pics of what I have. Perhaps different brands vary, the 4 seasons motor is much lighter weight, smaller motor than my 75 Z version, cage is larger.

I'll take some pics with measurements - my recollection when I tried to place it was that the discrepancy was much more than 1/16" with the 4Seasons motor Yeah, If the shaft fitment is the same, that will be preferable. My 280Z has deep foam & metal spacers for the factory blower to get the correct offset. I'm wondering if it's even worth the bother. The Z motor has much more heft to it. I'm dubious as to the newer motor having more 'zest' than the original.

Yes - the OD of the squirrel cage, that impedes the install in the stock opening.

Still haven't installed the Kia motor yet - the one I bought seems like it's more than 1/16 to an 1/8" larger OD - I'll have to take some compassion pics - I don't see any actual install mod pics in this or the original linked thread.

Another rain-drenched day 😞 On a plus note, I have both factory under dash vents & the r/s elbow on order 🙂 I couldn't work outside, so I fitted the Volvo fan speed resistor to the blower casing. M4 rivnuts to retain it, added a little extra butyl to adjust for the folded seam Nissan used here

Looking in the FSM at the AC related ducting and schematics, I see that factory AC came with blower ducts that sit under the dash(?) EDIT - found the left vent , working on the right vent + right elbow E Wondering if anyone has added universal vents that approximate the factory supplied version. My Aftermarket setup had none, only center & dash end vents connected items, 3, 12 & 13 are what I'm missing - I do have the "Y" elbow on the driver's side, just was blocked off. I have looked at vintage air, etc., however those vents all seem to be oversize for what I need

Sorry - missed this - waiting for the meter so I can try to deal with caps at the same time if needed.

I didn't bother mentioning as I opted for a repackaged OTC 3940 multimeter that was discounted pricing. Typically (in my experience) Amazon listings sold this way are just open box, not actually used items. In this case it was completely dead.

I ordered one of the Cap-only test meters off Amazon, the multimeter I ordered was DOA. So, back to this once that arrives