HusseinHolland

Thanks. I'm really not concerned with the fusible link features, just the amperage. I'm going to use a Midival block , which is very much akin to the primary fuse circuit on my Volvos. I may use one of the battery mounted blocks if there is room I'm used to rewiring/adding circuits. On my Fiat X1/9 I had to completely rewire for a Honda EMS, which required adding a couple ancillary fuse/relay blocks

Thanks so much for the link! I read through all 7 pages hoping to find somewhere where the fusible link ratings were translated into amps - the previous owner of my 75 280Z has been telling me they are 'fussy'. I'm more than happy to update this & add the H/L relay mod while I'm at it EDIT - adding the amp rating cross reference link HERE 🙂

Not sure that takes a difference in terms of the std JPT terminal/receptacle connection. I have many Bosch (Volvo) LH ECU's, I can check the male tab dimensions for reference - they all use JPT receptacles for the harness connection. Do you have a picture of the receptacle housing Nissan used?

Hello. Curious if you have any pics. My 75 280Z is not with me yet. I'm assuming I will be doing some wiring updates, as things like the injectors have been butt-spliced. I've assumed all the terminals are JPT, since the FI system is Bosch L-Jetronic, or at least a licensed copy thereof. The male terminals are all 2.8mm, the female would certainly be wider if you are measuring the 'tang' width. Are you using the revised terminals with the spring tab sleeves? Example: TE 964286 I usually get all my JPT terminals from Mouser, however I have stooped to buying some off Aliexpress. Those are not always to spec. Just to provide some context, I am very familiar with extensive wiring mods. I had to fabricate harnesses for the Honda K24 drivetrain into my '87 Bertone X1/9, and for the ongoing LS1 swap into my 91 Volvo 740 (converted to pickup). I keep an extensive supply of terminals & use the proper crimp tools