HusseinHolland

The only question I'd have is whether the standard micro relay rating (25a) is sufficient for an external fuel pump. It may be safer to use the standard cube/mini relay for that?

Nice! Although no Volvo ever used that relay - looks much the same as the one Fiat used for it's L-Jet in the 80's though. Personally, I'd look to update to a less expensive controller, if mine were bad. I'm of the mind that if it ain't broke don't fix it for most things, however if I need to do any rewiring on mine, I'll probably go with a less costly 2 relay setup

I haven't reviewed the Z EFI wiring diagrams yet - however, if the system relay requires an ignition pulse to trigger the injector ground circuit like most Bosch EFI, then there are various relays that can do that. This Volvo-based page (about half way down) has details on using a VW relay - 321906059C, 321906069D, 321906069G or 321906069H. There is discussion of timed pulse for the pump(s), since that is a feature of the LH systems Volvo uses. Perhaps that will serve your needs?

Yes, the function of the fusible link has been wrung out over the whole thread. It is also known that the heavier rated fuse types were not in production in the early 70s. The PO of my car (owned it from new) told me he had issues with the links. Who knows what rating he was actually given, and whether it was appropriate for the '75 spec. I'm just going to go with the equivalent ratings (40a = green, 80a = black) based on the chart I linked. I see no reason for concern. If I were interested in keeping the car completely original, I would source the appropriate wiring. I can appreciate that there are people to whom that matters.

Thanks. I'm really not concerned with the fusible link features, just the amperage. I'm going to use a Midival block , which is very much akin to the primary fuse circuit on my Volvos. I may use one of the battery mounted blocks if there is room I'm used to rewiring/adding circuits. On my Fiat X1/9 I had to completely rewire for a Honda EMS, which required adding a couple ancillary fuse/relay blocks

Thanks so much for the link! I read through all 7 pages hoping to find somewhere where the fusible link ratings were translated into amps - the previous owner of my 75 280Z has been telling me they are 'fussy'. I'm more than happy to update this & add the H/L relay mod while I'm at it EDIT - adding the amp rating cross reference link HERE 🙂

Not sure that takes a difference in terms of the std JPT terminal/receptacle connection. I have many Bosch (Volvo) LH ECU's, I can check the male tab dimensions for reference - they all use JPT receptacles for the harness connection. Do you have a picture of the receptacle housing Nissan used?

Hello. Curious if you have any pics. My 75 280Z is not with me yet. I'm assuming I will be doing some wiring updates, as things like the injectors have been butt-spliced. I've assumed all the terminals are JPT, since the FI system is Bosch L-Jetronic, or at least a licensed copy thereof. The male terminals are all 2.8mm, the female would certainly be wider if you are measuring the 'tang' width. Are you using the revised terminals with the spring tab sleeves? Example: TE 964286 I usually get all my JPT terminals from Mouser, however I have stooped to buying some off Aliexpress. Those are not always to spec. Just to provide some context, I am very familiar with extensive wiring mods. I had to fabricate harnesses for the Honda K24 drivetrain into my '87 Bertone X1/9, and for the ongoing LS1 swap into my 91 Volvo 740 (converted to pickup). I keep an extensive supply of terminals & use the proper crimp tools