seerex

Alan thanks for the info was gonna post the same question , by chance were the watanabe wheels a option in japan or just an aftermarket add on?

another I have used is to just list the weight of the item packed and the zip from where its being shipped from , they can get an approx $ for shipping , but its a problem easily fixed froma buyer stand point , bid only on items with a fixed , shown price for shipping , I don't care for the mystery price of shipping

yes they are made of a clear plastic , and go in quite easily , if you can get them from nissan you have to buy in set of 5 , ended up selling the rest of mine on ebay , where can you get the brass ones?

Pepsi?:devious:

been selling on ebay for a while and its a double sided sword, you try to ship for a fair price and recover your costs of packaging and time to packed up the item and not to charge to much to discourage people from bidding, If its an item thats already preboxed I just charge the actual rate, but got to be honest , some things I hate to sell because you know its a pain to pack up and make sure it gets there and not be in multiple pieces. I honestly rarely bid on anything that doesn't have a fixed price of shipping , also been ripped off in my mind because I know what it takes time and packaging wise, I just hate the people that show up at UPS or USPS and just lay an item on the counter and say I need to ship this < they are always righ infront of me > , but I love ebay just for the fact you never know what z parts you will find , but you have to look through the crap sometime to find the good stuff,

I would email him back and figure out if he knows what he is selling , you might also check tirerack or some others for those wheels that price is ok , I am guessing he means that his car was lowered or it was out of alignment and the tires have ether inner or outer wear that is abnormal , if you have the 4 on 4.5 hubs be sure he emails you a pic of the size embossed on the wheel , almost bought some from ebay from someone who thought he had one size and ended up another , saves time and grief , good luck

hhhm I bet the seatcovers make it go even faster I just wonder why there isn't a pic of the "race" motor ,

the green you refer to is code 112 , I also would look at every body panel for lines or waves or just use a magnet with a coating or a thin towel to avoid scratching your finish , with black paint you should see alot of the flaws if there are any in a bright daylight from the side , good luck , by the way the Lime green looks pretty good on Z's

I just got an e-31 , wanted some suggestions on what not to do or any suggestions for the rebuild of it , right now gonna strip it down and have it cleaned and ported and polished for a new cam , should a 3 angle or 5 angle valve job be done or thoughts any aspect . just don't wanna mess it up , it gonna be with a F-54 basicly stock block , thanks all:geek:

ahh ok my bad

I have a recently redone n36 intake and all i left open is the brake booster line in the top left and the bottom egr valve that goes to the crank case , but sucking noise is not good , all the rest of mine are capped

I am getting the parts together for a e-31 f54 combo what are the arp bolts and where can i get some? , thanks

I did the same thing a long time ago , ending up being the link , if nothing in the car works at all , thats most likely it

I also have an early e88 head and I didn't know if it made a huge diffrence or not , what kind of cam are you gonna use?

thanks for the software that is pretty kewl anybody know approx hp output of the engine?

By chance does nayone have any info on if this is correct the f54 with the e31 will give you 10.8 to 1 compression? I have hear alot about other combos but I have access to both the head and bottom end <f54> for a good price will this work ok , I have a e36 intake and round tops from my 240 to finish it up , any with expierence good or bad , and is it as easy as i seems? Thanskhttp://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

seen alot worse , actually owned worseROFL but if you love the car by all means fix if not sell to someone who will , rather see it fixed than parted , enjoy it

I have got the back carb rebuilt and all went very well , i am holding off the other til my brother shows up with his extra set of su's , i used a electric tooth brush best 4 bucks i think i ever spent, and old white teeshirts , took it slow and easy , gotta say they are quite simple, thought they were complex and extremely hard , waiting for my ztherapy intake to go much farther, I appreciate all the help you guy all have given during my carb issues especially Chino , thanks hope to post pics soon I will of my new carbs and manifold when all is done

Good news all 3 screws to both carbs came off , relatively easily , I sprayed them for a 3rd day all day then had my fiance hold them dowm with a towel as I used my weight to hold the screw driver on the screws , I got my rebuild kits from bv , I am waiting for my su video from ztherapy , I guess i should order the fuel lines as well , i was reading that any others seem to Melt? , I appreciate the help and suggestions , :classic: , any big don't when cleaning these carbs?

I don't think the treats are stripped at all , just the screw it self , am gonna try the vise grips , I tried some linesman plyers but could get a good grip . if i get it all disassembled I am rebuilding them using a rebuild kit from bv and the video from ztherapy , the fuel line they provided in the rebuild kit is it ok to use or should I get the one from ztherapy , and its the fuel line from the bottom of the float to the adjustment ring <for lack of a better term>?

I am trying to remove the 3 screws on the top of my round top su"s . On the back carb I have 2 of the 3 out and the 3rd is on its way to being stripped , I have sprayed the for two days with wd-40 and It seemed to have helped. Any suggestions on getting them out with out a drill, and does anyone know where to get replacement screws. The car had never been taken apart in its 31 year life so its a touch sticky with the nuts and bolts . Thanks Jeff:geek:

Well i found the leak is at the manifold itself , figures , so new header time

Great ideal Victor thanks

hey crazy ideal here , if you have spark and getting fuel ie pump working and injectors are full , check your air flow meter and make sure the cross hairs aren't damaged