ZmeFly

Thats another thought in itself. You may just have a sticking piston in the carb, causing them to become unbalanced. Clean your carbs up too while your at it.

Thats not the problem, the problem lies in the pistons and rings on the NA block, thats why it is better to go with the turbo block. No other reason. Honestly though the time you would take to do and gather all that you need for the conversion you could easily have a complete turbo motor. I dont see the point.

A set of crank and rod bearings, new rings and of course seals, and gaskets.

Your not seeing things 2many it is or was originally orange.

Id like to have the car hehe Maybe 2manyZ's will buy it and pick it up, its in his neck of the woods.

I actually like it a lot:love:

Shave the side markes and lose the current rear spoiler you have, keep the air damn and the bumpers

I likedLOL

You can still get them from Nissan, do you have a spare first child though:cross-eye They are very expensive. Like hls30.com this summer I plan on doing almost exacly what he has done with his to try and restore them a little bit. If now I too will have to take the bath in vaseline for these pieces of rubber.

Probably like running twice pipes. Loud but god does it sound sooooooooooo good. :devious:

It just isnt any good for high hp numbers. Anyone thats running 300+hp doesnt or will not use the HLA head. Parts are non existent as well. Its good for a stock or over sotck application, but for hihg hp numbers look at anyone thats puttin out high hp numbers and running th P90 and you will see. None want the P90a

But you would have to fashion mounts and the like for the motor and the transmission. The rear wont be a problem though. If your looking for just getting a turbo into your car it would be easier and a LOT LESS costly to go with the L28ET out of a 280ZXT. Either way you decide good luck and do take a look at HybridZ.org, a good place for people doing converts to the Z and ZX.

Areas to check, Frame rails, floor pans inside and out. Rear dog legs, inside and out Rear hatch area Wheel wells front and rear Battery box area, under the bonnet and inside the wheel Rocker panel and the same area inside the car. Look for repaint and if you find a repaint see why it was done, search for bondo. Check suspension, most people never replace the very old and worn rubber bushings, good buying point something YOU have to replace. Check the steering rack for wear, wheel for play another buying point. If you have a compression test kit, take it along with you as well. Check the oil in the car to see what it looks like, also the antifreeze as well. From this you should be able to determine the state in which the car was maintained. And of course drive the car. Make sure the transmission shifts smothly, no rear clunks or noises. Just more buying points. Good luck with your purchase.

Depending on the type of rebuild, Id say the motor is worth about 500-850 american. Seeing though that you could have a serious rust problem on your hands, being that there is rust below the windscreen, no telling how deep it runs. It is also not currently road worth which to me if it is something as simple as a mirror why hasnt it been replaced. Id look the car over very carefully and check for rust and see how well it actually does run. If you have a compression kit, do a compression test as well to see how good the engine is.

Is tightening down the manifold bolts at either end to see if it helps, you may also want to try while the engine is cold some soapy water or something that will bubble if you think its the manifold. It should be evident with something like that right away .

Remember this, I dont care if it has 4 points to hit or 40 or one, the spark is only going to go to one of these points at any given time.

Is to also adjust your valves while your doing everything else. That way your sure to know that everything is in correct tune.

And go to www.Zhome.com you will find most of what your looking for there.

If your not liking the FI to much you could always easily retrofit a set of su's on your motor without a problem. In any event like I said definetly go with the flat top pistons.

Heh first time Ive even seen ZXT wheels on a 240SX looks great

You would be taking a lower powered engine and putting it into a bigger car. IE swapping a 2.8 for a 2.4. It would be best to rebuild your current engine with flat tops.

My MAC is rated at 650lbs maxium forward torque and 725lbs maximum reverse torque, it takes almost anything off:devious:

So do they have finger prints do they have a lead do they know who this arse is so we can all go down to his house and kick his arse. Wonderful news that you got your car back and that there really isnt all that much damage, I would definetly count my blessings.

I dont know but it was some funny reading thats for sure.

Here is the one I was looking at. http://www.cars-cars-cars.org/0-60-Times-Calculator.htm