Tourniqet

hey phred, do you have any price estimates?? like for a block, crank or rods to be peened, or halfshafts? thanks for the post!!!

I live in dallas and wish i were a texas z member... They have dues and I dont like that! or im to poor cant remember...

does anyone know the size of the u-joints in the z's drivetrain ? I was just wondering this to maybe order some bulk or look for oddball ones on e-bay... Sorry I dont have any of the manuals...

aren't the boosters stuck together by like metall.. ( baisically almost impossible to get apart?)

yep, pulled that out... It was suprisingly unattached also... I thought it might be broken it just slipped out so easy... but I dotn know if the thing fell.. I only got to drive it for about 5 minutes before I had to entertain the girlfriend :cheeky:. Anyway to fix it?

ok maybe I scared you guys away with the caps.... anything ?

It works!!!! The brakes are a 1000% better. They are almost too grabby now. I will tune them a bit. Thanks for all your help guys!

thanks alot! (trying to get post # up...)

Kats, I would love to see your Z along with all the other beautiful cars you seem to be surrounded by. You could teach me a thing or two about paitence, because I can barely imagine the long hours you spend on your perfect work. You said in an earliar post you just wanted someone to teach your children english? Allen

Lance From your post I guess I can replace the brake booster without draining the master cylinder? also Sblake I dont have access to a vacum gun, but I have been told by a few It is a leaky diaphram, and highly suspect so myself.

Hey guys, I just put a mallory distributor on my car. I like it alot. I use to have a problem of the car not getting enough gas at higher revs under continous acceleration due to a fuel pressure regulator, but this new ignition sparks strong enough to supass the old problem... ( I think thats what its doing...) Anyway, I spent about 2 hours trying to figure out how to hook it up. After a few backfires and some other noises I finally took the valve cover off and the first sparkplug and set it to TDC. I tried this before but I think I had it at TDC of the exhaust stroke... I dont know really know what the little tiks on the crank pulley are but would like to!!! I have the order of the cylinders 153624 starting from the one closest to the radiator... When I use my timing light on the first sparkplug (closest to radiator) I cant even see the timing tiks... I have no idea what they are and never really used them... I just turned the dist by hand untill the idle sounded its best, and then gave it a few revs and ya... thats it.... It runs well and feels like all cylinders are firing and well... PLEASE TELL ME ALL THE TIMING TRICKS THAT YOU KNOW, ALONG WITH THE BAISICS! Thanks

Hey guys, I just got the brake booster off my parts car at the ranch. I think the diaphram on mine is leeking so I am going to replace it tommorow. Funny thing, my friend took the master cylinder off while unbolted the booster from the inside of the firewall. So I did not see exactly how it went together... I think I can figure it out but want to know if I should empty the master cylinder of brake fluid before I go at it... Or any other tips... Thanks

Luckily I cracked them when i broke them. I got them out with some ice and soem pliers... they came out easy... I will remember that for future applications....

Ok, I just got the collar I forgot for the mallory distributor that I have. I thought I would just warm up the car, so I could skip some of the cold tunning ambiguities, and install it. WELL I tried to unscrew the screws to the collar and the first one was a little tight so i thought maybe it was just shifted and needed the other one... Baisically I snapped both the screws about half an inch down from the head of the screw... Good news is that I got the collar off and there is about 1.5 of an inch sticking out of thread. I decided to let the block cool off ( I hope that was the reason...) and then try again later.... Anyone know how to get these scews out without the head on them ??? I have a 1.5 inches of thread to work with... I thought maybe I could find a nut that fit and then give her a little tack weld then unscrew them... ( this may just be because I want to use the welder in some way...) But my mistakes have disqualified me from any decision... Thanks guys

Is the car still carbed? might be some pretty heavy fabrication to make an intake from the carbs to go far enough away from the engine to benifit you at all... but there are those nice AC ducts.... hmmmm

Hey guys, I recently bought a fuel pressure regulator and some othe goodies from Victoria British, included was a fuel pressure regulator. I had problems with my old one since i put the new carbs and bigger exhaust on. I passed up the 20 $ one at autozone because i figured it was cheap and would break down. so i bought the one from victoria british... Well it turned out that they are the same one... I installed it and it worked fine but after leaving it for a month while i was at college I came back to find it not working very much at all... so i put the old one back in and it works so i know its that part... Anyway what fuel pressure regulators do you guys have? do you like them? how much are they? and will yours work on my 240z with exhaust and weber dgv's. I also have an electric fuel pump and bypassed the mechanical. The return line is working for all I know...

how many cfm's do you guys fans flow if you can remmeber... and how many do you think the stock datsun radiotor should get with a reletively high performance engine. (cam carbs exhaust ignition, no boring) ???

Hey guys, I was doing some searches and dissapointed not finding any information on an electric fan conversion for cooling. Maybe my searching skills are below par but either way I would like to know who has them, why they got them, how much it costed, and mounting/modification specifics. Oh and also the horsepower free'd up from taking the engine driven fan off? Enough to notice ? Thanks

no love?