Tourniqet

I have the 2.4 with weber dgv's and msa 6-1 header into a 2.5inch exhaust with a borla xs straight through muffler. The muffler is a straight pipe that goes from the left side of the muffler to the right, and is perforated on the inside and surrounded by fiberglass type material. It has a 2.5 inch steel tip on it. It sounds very good in my opinion. I use to have some no name muffler on there with a HUGE tip, you know what I am talking about, the ones that look like foldgers coffee cans tied to the back of civics. Anway I got this new system in and it sounds better but there is NO backpressure. I kind of want this because I am planning some other free flow mods to the engine, but not sure what i can do in the mean time to get maybe a little bit more power that might be lost because of it. Anyway here is a funny exhaust story. I am going to home depot because the bolts from my header to the 2.5inch exhause have fallen off and it sounds like satan himself. I pull up to a stoplight and the regular old harley dude comes puttin on up, and gives me a little nod because he likes the vintage car right. Then he gives me a little thunder from his pipes and looks over to see my reaction. I decided to give him a good 4,000rpm yulp from my car w/o the exhaust mind you, and it totally blew his harley away. He looks over at me and says "Son that is the first time thats ever happend to me" I drove away with a big smile on my face anyway, anyone have experience with straight through mufflers thanks

Hi guys, I believe this just recently started happening. When i press on the brakes they start to hiss. Even If i press lightly, and continue to the end of the pull. They are really soggy when you push on them and then have to mash them to the ground to get it to stop. I thought it was air in the system but did not know about the hissing. Also at idle when i press the brakes in about an inch they hiss and keep hissing. The engine does not drop RPM but runs alot rougher likes its out of timing, The whole car shakes from The engine. ALSO when i start teh car it WILL not go into gear untill it warms up, about a minute. Once it warms up the clutch stiffens up a bid,it starts loose. BUT if i start it cold in gear with the clutch all the way in it will creep forward like i am ridding the pedal half way out. AND if i start it up to warm up and press the clutch in and out about 15 times it will get a little harder to push and then it will go in nicely. IS any of this normal..? Anyway, Thanks alot!!!

I know J.C. Whitney has a LOT of good weather stripping and other generic resto stuff, but you never know if will fit or not you know...

Does anyone know where to find the thing that is stuck up in the window that seals it when it is rolled up??? It's like a little fuzzy V that pinches the window when it is rolled up...

Hey guys just surfing for a Z specialty shop in Dallas and came across this site. http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/specialists.html It has alot of good sites, and they are listed by country. If anyone knows a good z shop in Dallas TX or surrounding areas please tell me!!!!!

I have Just put Weber dgv's, MSA 6-1 header, 2.5 full exhaust on my 73 240z. It has not been tuned yet, except what I could manage, but I am wondering how much that could affect the performance. How much horsepower could be hidding behind my poorly tuned carbs, unadjusted valves and poorley tuned ignition. I ask this question because I am not sure if the l24 has enough potential to get my car to where I want it. I know the l26 has a different crank and that increases disp. The l28 bored a little bit. Both of these options dont seem a reality to me. I may be able to get a bud with the tools to do an engine swap in a weekend, but I probobly can't be taking my whole block apart... I have thought about a v8 swap or a tubo motor from a later model car. I would like to keep the engine under 1500, but will do what I have to do. Anyway post back with what you think and maybe some of your set ups and times. Criticizm welcome!

Most of these questions are because I had to custom fabricate (Jimmy rig) some parts on my car because of little things i forgot or incompatabilities. OK The output on the waterneck to my intake manifolds is blocked off... Is this ok? The vacume hose to the distributor is not hooked up, but the manifold hose is plugged (with a bolt and a tightly clamped hose clamp:ermm:) And lets see, I took all of the AC out, well most of it, is there anything i need to be carefull of because of that? The heater will come out soon too. Also I have the 73 with all the smog stuff (untill I ripped it all off and put dgv's on:devious:) so there is a coolant hose that runs arond the back of the engine by the firewall that connects to the intake manifold and also connects to the header, which is weird. But i just unplugged this and it does not leak. The previous owner had plugged the intake manifold coolant flow so I gues he plugged the other end of it into the waterneck at the base of the front of the engine. Although it still looks hooked up.... I have learned my lesson, I will definantly be more carefull next time. I should have taken a picture of all the screws left over that were under the car when it finally started running and I backed it out:stupid:. Anyway just wondering If i did anything that would make it blow up on me:D Thanks guys

Thanks for the information guys. next time I will do a search first!!! I was lookin around on the net, and found that the new 350z's have a tranny called FS6R31A I was wondering if this would bolt onto my 2.4 z motor... The numbers id numbers seem to be similar... Just dreaming

Does anyone know how to identify wich tranny I have and also which rear end? I have a 73 240 and it has a 5 speed in it... I dont think this was available for that year was it?

Most of the "special engines" are just differnt heads. All of the N42 e88 etc. are head ID#'s. I know there is a year or two that have siamesed cylinders and are better or worse for racing, I forget. If you search the forums for "different heads" you can come across a few good posts.

It is very addicting, besides driving 800 miles round trip for parts and scavenging e-bay I have gone from 0 -80 some posts in about a month or so of having this car!

I just pulled the a/c off of my car It was working when it has a belt on it, which was like 2 years ago... The pump has good compression still. I dont like any accesory that isnt vital... And since I am a lifeguard I never have a shirt on anywayROFL

I know there is some racing name for it. like a "piston ping" or something of that sort... But It baisically happens in race or high revving situations. When an engine is revving really high sometimes it has "valve float" valve float is when the valve springs arent fast enough in pushing the valves back down when opening for the intake or exhaust cycles. Soooo what happens is when the piston comes up for compression or exhaust the valve is still open and in the way of the piston...BAM... collision. It is not a very fun thing to happen so I have heard

I probobly do need help:stupid:. But I fell on a string of bad luck you see. First I left the stock distributor in to cut down on the variables in case the car did not start. I cranked it and nothing happend, no firing whatsoever. So i tested distributor by taking a plug out and grounding on motor and looking for spark. No spark. So now I know it is my distributor. I figured that because I dont know ANYTHING about all of this vacum line business and i did not hook the vacume distrib tube up... So after I had switched it out with the mallory aftermarket one I found a lead to the coil that had slipped off... So it turns out the stock one was fine just a lead slipped off the coil. I already had the aftermarket one in so might as well try it. I did not get the sleeve for the distributor off of the parts car but it fit and I did not really realize that it would spin around in the stock sleeve. So I cranked it and it started spitting out the carbs... I talked to a few people and they said that means it is running lean, So then I messed with the carbs for a while and could not get anything to happen. So I did some searches on these forums and finally found a guy who suggested a distributor cap in 180* backwards. So i went out and found that the aftermarket one slid around the sleeve! So i turned it, started, turned, started etc. untill it started running. This was dumb and I should not have done this! I Later realized I could have thrown a rod or had a piston valve collision! I finally realized that my stock one would do better, so i swaped them (and had to fabricate the ground on the dist). It finally fired up. So I took her for a ride and tried to get the carbs reasonably tuned. I plan to take it to get a profesional carb tune, valve tune, and anything else I missed. So thats my story of that, next time I will definantly pace myself more, and not stay up untill 4 in the morning trying to get it to run!!!

I did not know the dist was backwards. I told people it was spitting at me and they said it was lean, and to adjust carbs. Later found out about distributor. But you are probobly right I should calm down and think more before I do some serious damage:tapemouth

The top header stud coming out of the engine closest to the radiator is broken off. I installed header and every thing seems to work well. Could this come back to haunt me?

ALRIGHT!! It is firing!!! I had the distributor in 180 from what it should have been, so it was firing on the exhaust cycle... The only problem is I couldnt get my stock distributor to work so I had to use the aftermarket one. I did not take the aftermarket distributor sleeve off the car i got it from so i can only tighten it down with the bracket. The whole assembly will move while connected(unless tightened). Sooooo I kinda guessed and got it somewhat close to what I think it should be. It took about 5 tries of starting and then getting out and turning the distrib about a quarter inch or so untill it actually idled. Ohh and i messed with the fuel mixture, need valves adjusted and am running out of fuel so add those to the equation. I took it for a drive because it seemed to be idling OK and + I dont have any self control. It was doing fine for the first 2 or 3 mins then it started spurting out of the carb again when I accelerated! it was kind of like bogging except just poping and spurting. That is my story.

Well, not really but that may be the problem. It is shooting air back up the intake manifold to the carbs so it may be becase the plugs are in the wrong cylinders but pple tell me it is running lean, and I dont know how to fix it....

Guys I almost have the car running tonight!!! I just installed dual weber DGV's and a full msa 6 to 1 header, with 2.5inch exhaust. I took all of my old smog crap off and put all of that on. SHE WONT START NOW!?!?! I did at least 90% of it right:stupid:. I cranked it for 2 minutes then found that a lead was off of the coil. I thought it was ignition so i put the mallory distributor and new plug wires. I am 92% sure plugs are in right place ( I labled them on car i took off). Now THe webers are HISSING AND POPPING when i crank it to start... I have heard about this b4 but dont know what it is....... PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really want to hear it tonight!

How much do I torque down headder bolts and intake manifold bolts?!?!?!?! Sorry I want to get this done tonight!!!!

Make sure you scour the bottom of the car. I found a four inch tare in the floor pans of my car and then decided that it was repairable. But after finding the tares I neglected to keep looking, and found a nice 6 inch patch of rust on the frame rail connecting the end of the floor pan... the rear decklid, battery tray, every piece of the bottom of that car are likely suspects

my friend is a ferrari mechanic and he gets 250 an hour, THATS reasonable right???

BMW has my vote. They make great engines (straight six) and their boxer style engines in their bikes are very unique. As 2many said they give great performance, styling, luxury, comfort, everything i can think of. Also BMW is the only company I know of that constantly beats cars with more horsepower that have the same weight rating. No joke the bmw 3 series constantly beats the higher hp competitors that weight the same. AND HAVE YOU SEEN THE FILMS!!!!!!! check out star on season 1 www.bmwfilms.com