26th-Z

I have been using the green media for which I posted a link. It wears out pretty fast compared to stiffer media I have used. Tumbler times? Usually overnight, minimum 4 hours, more like six. Bigger parts, big bolts take longer. Little washers actually help the process by banging into each other. No, it doesn't damage the threads. I wash and dip the tumbled stuff in OSPHO before I inspect everything. Sometimes I run a tap or die over the threads. Don't let the OSPHO drip dry. It will cake in the threads. Wipe everything off with a dry towel. And your'e good to go.

Great explanation, Jim. I bagged and wired in groups, like 'the rear suspension' or 'front fender bolts' so that groups / assemblies came back all together. The wire wheel routine will take your fingertips off. And zing precious bolts as far out as the front lawn. I used a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight and media for rust cutting to clean all my hardware. The bigger things had to be media blasted which I farmed out. https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=60542

Original hose clamps for your 1970 build are clear zinc. The door strikers are clear zinc.

Thanks Kats!

Kats, I think you said that the intake manifold on the Bonhams car was for an automatic? What about it would make it for an automatic? Other comments about this car come from Ben's observation about when it was put on the block. That could have been a significant factor in the final price. Hey Ben! We can count on you to feel up a ZG! The paint quality was obviously bad - in the worst of obviously spots! Same for the fit of the front fenders. I almost want to think it was crashed. Finally, a shout-out to Zed Head. You could learn a lot from this site!

http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program.

I haven't seen one of those for sale in a long time. They came in three different finishes, this one being gold. They are actually worth quite a bit, however this one doesn't have the right cover. Too bad.

As I posted earlier, the steering shaft from 10/69 is stamped 4M

I'm surprised the price is so low, frankly. It's authenticity is easily verified, I believe, if you know anything about Scarabs. So chalk the comments about documentation up to ignorance. There's a ton of information about Scarabs in the archives.

Yes, acetone with one of those green scotch-brite sponges. Put paper towels in the cylinders so that you won't spill acetone down into the cylinders. Use a Permatex gasket sealant like their copper gasket spray. Get the two surfaces as clean as you can.

Many thanks for the part number. I'll give it a try. I don't know what the steering shaft numbers mean. Notice how the u-joint from shaft 194 is peened in place? The u-joints from my early steering shafts are not peened. I hve a later shaft from a '72 that has the peened fitting.

Yep, yep. That's what I'm looking for. I found a proper size u-joint in England, however you say Kawasaki. What part #? I saw your post and pictures after the die grinder.

Does anyone know where to get that u-joint? 26th's shaft says 4M.

That car is sooo...sligthly worse than my 27th! If you get the car and want to cut the roof off, I might go for the roof. Is that rust or dents on the leading edge? Otherwise, it looks pretty good? Agreed, that car is toast. I did see some interesting parts, though. And never discount the hardware you can salvage. All the little clips and tabs, the nuts and bolts. They can get polished up and re-plated pretty easily. I would be interested in the steering shaft, perhaps the rack. Does it have tool lids behind the seats? I could go for those. The a/c compressor is vintage. How's the wiring harness? Let me know what you decide. I say the car is worth $1,200

The rivets are smaller than 1/8". Drilling them out and replacing them with 1/8" common rivets is noticeable. So if you care, and I would for that vintage of a car, I would have them carefully removed and replaced with the correct size. Yes, take it off before painting. About the best cleaner you can get away with is strong detergent and a soft brush. Even aluminum polish will damage the ink. I just consider the condition of the plate "patina"!

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program. They have the colors for the early Zs. What percentage were painted 918? Anyone's guess as I have never seen any records. What is interesting and fairly well documented is that color combinations were produced in multiple sequences or series of two or three. For instance my two cars (26 and 27) are identical 907 green with butterscotch interiors.

The zinc will get very dull with age. The shine came from the brightness of the metal. In the case of plating, the finish is going to reflect the smoothness of the base metal. Plating only comes in one 'finish'. So the color of the distributor cap has been discussed ad-nausium for years. I say black but there is strong evidence for green. What is important to me is the brass contacts. They don't wear out as fast.

Silver zinc hose clamps and a black distributor cap for '69 build cars. Also the contacts in the distributor cap are brass, not aluminum.

I hate to burst your bubble but the back straight at Road Atlanta isn't flat enough to land an aircraft full of marijuana. Nice video from a guy who wasn't 'there'. However...I was there and the stories are relatively true. When we took our GTU Porsche to Daytona in 1980, I got to be chums with the mechanics on this car. One of a pair imported from Columbia. They came in heavy and went home light.

Your fan should not be loud. Is the fan clutch working properly?

Very common issue. You could also weld up the hole in the pedal arm and re-drill it. Love the bearing idea.

I don't like to voice opinions about car values, however I don't see any reason why the car is priced so well above the prices posted on the value index sites for similar cars. It is priced well above a recent auction pinnacle. It has had the emission system removed. I think that car is worth half the advertised value - max.

I bought one. Very nice quality. Thumbs up!

Thumbs up to everything Mike said. If you have a solid one, you have something quite rare and unique. Not that the hollow cast ones are common!