26th-Z

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program.

I haven't seen one of those for sale in a long time. They came in three different finishes, this one being gold. They are actually worth quite a bit, however this one doesn't have the right cover. Too bad.

As I posted earlier, the steering shaft from 10/69 is stamped 4M

I'm surprised the price is so low, frankly. It's authenticity is easily verified, I believe, if you know anything about Scarabs. So chalk the comments about documentation up to ignorance. There's a ton of information about Scarabs in the archives.

Yes, acetone with one of those green scotch-brite sponges. Put paper towels in the cylinders so that you won't spill acetone down into the cylinders. Use a Permatex gasket sealant like their copper gasket spray. Get the two surfaces as clean as you can.

Many thanks for the part number. I'll give it a try. I don't know what the steering shaft numbers mean. Notice how the u-joint from shaft 194 is peened in place? The u-joints from my early steering shafts are not peened. I hve a later shaft from a '72 that has the peened fitting.

Yep, yep. That's what I'm looking for. I found a proper size u-joint in England, however you say Kawasaki. What part #? I saw your post and pictures after the die grinder.

Does anyone know where to get that u-joint? 26th's shaft says 4M.

That car is sooo...sligthly worse than my 27th! If you get the car and want to cut the roof off, I might go for the roof. Is that rust or dents on the leading edge? Otherwise, it looks pretty good? Agreed, that car is toast. I did see some interesting parts, though. And never discount the hardware you can salvage. All the little clips and tabs, the nuts and bolts. They can get polished up and re-plated pretty easily. I would be interested in the steering shaft, perhaps the rack. Does it have tool lids behind the seats? I could go for those. The a/c compressor is vintage. How's the wiring harness? Let me know what you decide. I say the car is worth $1,200

The rivets are smaller than 1/8". Drilling them out and replacing them with 1/8" common rivets is noticeable. So if you care, and I would for that vintage of a car, I would have them carefully removed and replaced with the correct size. Yes, take it off before painting. About the best cleaner you can get away with is strong detergent and a soft brush. Even aluminum polish will damage the ink. I just consider the condition of the plate "patina"!

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program. They have the colors for the early Zs. What percentage were painted 918? Anyone's guess as I have never seen any records. What is interesting and fairly well documented is that color combinations were produced in multiple sequences or series of two or three. For instance my two cars (26 and 27) are identical 907 green with butterscotch interiors.

The zinc will get very dull with age. The shine came from the brightness of the metal. In the case of plating, the finish is going to reflect the smoothness of the base metal. Plating only comes in one 'finish'. So the color of the distributor cap has been discussed ad-nausium for years. I say black but there is strong evidence for green. What is important to me is the brass contacts. They don't wear out as fast.

Silver zinc hose clamps and a black distributor cap for '69 build cars. Also the contacts in the distributor cap are brass, not aluminum.

I hate to burst your bubble but the back straight at Road Atlanta isn't flat enough to land an aircraft full of marijuana. Nice video from a guy who wasn't 'there'. However...I was there and the stories are relatively true. When we took our GTU Porsche to Daytona in 1980, I got to be chums with the mechanics on this car. One of a pair imported from Columbia. They came in heavy and went home light.

Your fan should not be loud. Is the fan clutch working properly?

Very common issue. You could also weld up the hole in the pedal arm and re-drill it. Love the bearing idea.

I don't like to voice opinions about car values, however I don't see any reason why the car is priced so well above the prices posted on the value index sites for similar cars. It is priced well above a recent auction pinnacle. It has had the emission system removed. I think that car is worth half the advertised value - max.

I bought one. Very nice quality. Thumbs up!

Thumbs up to everything Mike said. If you have a solid one, you have something quite rare and unique. Not that the hollow cast ones are common!

That diagram explains the deck mounts of the rear supports. Love the diagram

Thanks for sharing the diagram, Alan.

Seriously? You read HERE that Nissan successfully combined metal with plastic? That would be quite a feat, don't you think? Do you not know the difference between plastic and metal? You must! You used a magnet and it stuck. What does that tell you? All emblems have mounting posts; both the metal ones and the plastic ones.

And gouging yourself in the event of a crash. They are not Federal crash standard compliant and not original. The black plastic, mushroom topped ones are original. They screw onto a threaded rod.

No pictures of the engine? Underneath?

Those are road wheel cover (s) 40315-E4101or E4400 which replaced E4100. Although my book says applicable to 7/73, I know that E8800 was used for the '72 model year beginning in late '71. They appear to be original with original factory markings and typical surface rust on the inside. They fit all the standard road wheel sizes.