Ed

Hmmm, I tried the same set-up on Chris' diagram. The light bulb just dims about 50%. It's a brand new flasher but I'm taking it back.

Anyone have an idea of how to test a turn signal flasher to see if it's working properly? I just bought a brand new flasher. When I installed it the turn signals stay on and don't flash. I tried testing it like this: first I connected a wire to the negative terminal on a battery, the other end of the wire went to the flasher, from the other terminal on the flasher a wire went to a light bulb then to the positive terminal on the battery. The light just stayed on, no flashing.

Use the coathanger. Put a 1" 90 degree bend at the bottom (L shape). Slide it between the glass and the rubber trim. Point the bend towards the rear. Go down about 18". Try grabbing the lock mechanism as it comes from the keylock. You can also remove the rubber trim so you can see what your doing.

Kats, I too was wondering a lot about what the judges look at and what is permitted. I will be entering my freshly restored car at the nationals this year for the first time. And I wanted to know what kind of changes could someone make to their car and not be penalized for it. I read through the ZCCA judging manual and realized that it was not very clear. I think they did this on purpose. By leaving the rule book like it is the ultimate decision us up to the judge. You have to realize that every judge is going to be different. You can have five different judges look at your car and each one will notice something different or not notice it. Some judges will know that the hub caps are not correct for that year, other judges might not know. Like 26th said only the obvious is seen. Car shows are for you to show off your car and your hard work. And to admire other people's work. Everyone should get a trophy for having a 30 year old car that still runs.

Looks like swiss cheese. Frame rails in the engine bay are gone. If he sell this I will sell my rust bucket parts car.

Ennn Eye See EEE !!!!

Exsqueeze me? Bacon powder? There are benefits to EACH year of the 240. From the 70 to the 73. Saying that one is least desirable, I don't thinks so. The 73 IMO has better safety standards with the better crash bars in the doors. It also has the reclining seat mechanism, illuminated heat panel cluster and rear sway bar brackets. The one downfall is it's conformance to emmision standards of it's time (carbs) which most likely have been modified by someone to the earlier carbs. Not picking on you Ron but I've heard this too many times.

Andy, It's going to be tough getting an estimate when you don't know the extent of the damage. If you can get atleast one more person to come to your house and look at the damage. This way you get two estimates and a better idea of what might be wrong. And like Ron said you don't know if the damage goes down underneath. Good luck. PM me your email address and I will send you the 240z chassis dimensions.

Are there going to be any other topics that will be discussed?

Sorry, too busy looking at the picture to notice the copyright. Picture deleted.

If the overspray isn't that bad try some polishing compound and elbow grease.

On the other hand WTF is up with the Dodge van guy. Is there no way to prove that he hit your car? How about doing your own "CSI"? Take a bunch of pictures of your car and his. Measure the distance from the ground to the damage on your fender compared to his bumper. Go to the scene and find a witness. Build a case. Then go to his house and confront him. "You hit my car, here is the proof, either pay for the damage or I'll take you to small claims court". Just scare the guy. Take someone dressed in a suit pretending to be your lawyer. It's worth a try.

One thing that I notice immediately is that when you sit in it. The guages are organized the same and the "high" doors. You know when you sit in your car and you want to put your arm out the window you really have to raise your arm. The bottom of the window is about shoulder height.

"What's it like to drive the car"? Remember the first time you had sex? It's nothing like that. "How fast is it"? Stock 110 mph+or-, Modified how much money do you have? "How much torque does it have"? Stock I believe around 90?? "Is there any car that would compare to it"? No, but the 72,73 Datsun 240Z are pretty close. Sorry, I'm sure these aren't the answers your looking for but, your questions aren't either. Just playing with you.

Kind of off subject but, when using lock-tight do the threads have to be de-greased?

You don't want to use silicone. Because if you had to adjust the timing it would be stuck. New gaskets are available, either through your local dealer, parts store, Victoria British, MSA or you could make your own.

Yea, it really does. I'm glad I started to ask and that you guys helped me out. I was certain that my car would be a "Street Modified" entry mainly because I didn't have racing seats. But now, after counting how many mods I do actually have and not wanting to get pissed off on my first show, I decided to go for the "Nissan Modified". It's all fun.

Thanks for the comments gnosez. So I have another example if you don't mind. This is on a 1973, the carburators have been changed to 71' round tops, domes polished. The bodies have been modified by Ztherapy. Air filter box modified and non original color. Balance tube has been modified and polished. Intake manifolds, modified but original for the 73. Fuel rail from a 72. Two of the carburator links have been chrome plated. All the other links are correctly plated with the yellow zinc. Now would this be eight mods? Or is it really up to the judges discretion? Thanks, Ed Alan, I would love to see a non us market car show up. I bet the judges stand around scratching their head. Maybe they should have a separate class for them.

The flat tops came stock in the later L28's when they had different heads like the N79. Which had larger combustion chambers than the N42. The N42 head was designed for the earlier L28 with dished pistions. Performance gains with just higher compression would be minimal, you have to complete the package. Intake, Ignition, Exhaust. I would use the MSD. And upgrade the cam. Another option your friend has is to reduce the compression by using a thicker head gasket.

It would be hard to tell where your vehicle will ride with the new suspension. Your best bet would be to leave the bump stops as they are. Assemble your suspension and take the car for a spin to get everything settled. Then inspect to see how much travel you have.

Wow, that's quite a story. Watch out for those trucks.