240260280

Nice video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmn94B5UUuU

Great thread! I've been off line for the past two weeks so I've been quiet From recent reading, the Dellorto's are reported to work better than Webers and have better castings. The Aux Venturi Nozzle in particular has been tested by David Vizard and it atomizes fuel much better. In fact some modify the 40mm Dellorto Aux Venturis to fit in 40DCO's. The error in plate stamping is most likely another example of Chinese quality control. Parts made there are now flooding the market place. (FYI Weber tested and matched jets on flow benches before stamping, I doubt the new jets are tested and matched) For your drilled throttle plate, I first thought it may have been drilled to balance air but like you point out, the vertical drill angle seems like it was from the roof of the throat. Please check all progression holes in the 6 throats and ensure they are all the same (diameters, quantity, and location). They need to exactly match to ensure even progression. The other important dimension to check on the replacement plate is the angle cut into the edge. It determines where it stops and seals. A quick check for sealing is to release the throttle plate stop screw so that the plates stop in the throat. Once fully closed, hold up to a light source and see if any leaks between the plate and the throat. You can also place the carb vertically on a plate and pour alcohol into the throat and see if any leaks between the throat and plate.

Since buying a "rust free" aluminum and plastic Honda Insight, I have gained a great deal of experience in dealing with corrosion due to dissimilar metals, moisture, and electricity. The Insight's steel suspension bolts, seatbolts, and wiring harness stays all corrode where they contact aluminum. The front engine cover on our Z's is especially prone to this same problem due to the steel bolts, steel block, aluminum cover and gasket insulator. MORE IMPORTANTLY , the alternator's current passes through these bolts due to the front cover gasket insulating most of the path. In places where steel bolts fasten to, or pass through aluminum, I now use this product available at Home Depot in the electrical section for aluminum wiring (NOALOX) NO ALuminum OXidation. I recommend it for timing cover bolts, and water pump bolts. It works like antiseize but is better suited for steel bolts into aluminum parts.

It is a province. Garage-kept, summer-driven cars are very nice here, just like all places.

If interested, contact me. I can ship Z's to France from Canada (Nova Scotia).

Here is HLS30-00126. No Evap Vac switch or line:

It must have been a UN spec that went to Washington, (by ship or by road) or it was restored as a UN?

HLS30-00048 is the earliest UN I know. It may have had some part delays or issues because it was started life in October 1969 but was not shipped from the factory until February, 1970. HLS30-00126 & HLS30-00127 are both UN's Some crude info: Nov 28, 1969. Brandon Manitoba Brandon Sun Feb 5, 1970 " See the new 240Z arriving soon and watch for our Datsun new-car showing. " 1969 Hamilton Ad:

I now have a hankering for Werther's .

Imagine that!

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My Nov 69 has bolts too.

Old school way to make 1500 HP on a 1.5 litre 4 cylinder: https://racingotaku.wordpress.com/2009/06/08/best-f1-engine/ BMW Too!

Love the new engine!

Tres cool find. You Albertans sure can dig up old dinosaurs! I looked in FSM and now it finally pops out: I would like to offer to buy your old water pump if it is original (ol' smoothy) and you plan to replace it. Sanford.

Welcome to the grumpy old man club! You Hoser! You!!

Is that the same Campagnolo that makes racing bike parts?

Thanks as always master machinist CO. I had a quick look and young grasshopper will avoid the problem you mentioned https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA No collets yet but I foresee them in the future.

CO I am a coward and will go the Dellorto Mikuni/Solex route at first. No angled holes at first. These will be true "E-Tubes" for "empirical" testing. Quick and dirty to understand the relation ships between hole locations and tube size. Once this is mapped then angled holes will be tested. I plan to make a drilling block that will have guide holes to consistently drill holes in the same location on all tubes. I may even try to make a Mikuni solution that fits in a Weber's jet well as a second phase. Some O rings may be all that is needed to keep the fuel in the tube. Have a look above at the tube on the right.

I meant latte hero

Hope to find some time this week end to start an e-tube project. + = CO is my lathe hero!!!

If the Mikuni's never made it to production, SK Racing / OER make TBI units that may be similar: http://www.oer.co.jp/SportsInjection.html

Cliff, you may like this guy... cool name

Glad you got them sorted. Measuring Air/Fuel ratios under different conditions will be the next step in optimizing.

Popping/spitting out of any carb is usually a fuel delivery issue (not enough). Try to find the throat that is spitting then thoroughly check the jet values so they match the others and were not drilled or soldered in the past. Also check the orifices of the jets for blockage and or debris. Likewise check the passages in the carb for debris, including the progression holes and idle enrichment hole.