drunkenmaster

I got it running today. Took the plugs out and removed the rocker, i was happy to see everything was still looking fresh and lubed up, but i gave the cam a splash of oil anyhow. Refitted the rocker and let the starter turn a few times with the plugs out, all sounded fine. Drained the oil, topped it up with 20-50 gtx2, changed oil filter, refitted the plugs, she starts first crack. Started very nicely and had a nice smooth idle, was very impressed. flushed the radiator and engine water passages a few times, topped her up with new coolant, fitted a new fuel filter and couldnt wait to take her around the block. This thing walks all over my 280zx, made me regret selling it as i forgot how nice this motor was. Buyer comes in from interstate tomorrow night.

Every source has a different opinion when it comes to oil. I have been steered towards 25-50 or 25-60 elsewhere. The consensus everywhere is though that 10-30 is definately too thin. Too many decisions

Nice! Cant wait to get home to check it out. I missed the inspiration and ideas the site had and since sold the shell i was working on, but i have another Z i need to start

Also is there a gasket which may be affected by removing the rocker?

while we are on the topic, whats considered a good oil weight for a 20 year old L28E ? Its not exactly a tight high revving screamer. I was thinking a 10-30W but i have also heard that maybe using a synthetic on an older motor like this wouldnt be advisable as it would leak past the seals?? Thanks

Hey guys, Im selling my L28ET setup as a few of you know and I want to make sure its running for the next owner. The L28E ran fine when I bought it around 6 monthes ago but the battery was flat and I havent started it since as i planned to rebuild it anyway. I know this isnt a huge deal as some of you guys pick up motors that havent been used for several years, but is there any steps i should go through before I charge up a battery and fire her up? Remove the rocker and oil the head etc?

The shell i have put a lot of work into and sold it to a friend of mine as i have too many "projects" at once, it will see the road again. Th efaded plate has 108795 stamped into it, i assume there is a l26 printed infront of that number somewhere. The 2+2 has a P90/F54 L28E with all thhe injection gear, hence I have doubts that the gearbox even belongs to it, maybe it was an auto and the pedal box was swapped with the conversion, who knows. The body colour is an acrylic grape colour, again not original, and the door drims are black whilst i have found the rear trims are cream that have been sprayed black. the 77 has l26 163803 and for all intents and purposes seems to be an original car. I dont have any of the cars at my house, but have the plates for the shell here hence the quick referencing, if you need anything else you can remind me friday night because i will be working on them first thing saturday morning.

You are correct, obvisouly one of the 1974's is a 2+2 so im not sure if you care about that. The 1974 RS30 is a 10/74 and that is about the extent of the info I can offer you as it is a shell. It doesnt have a manual pedal box but I am unsure if it was born auto or later swapped for god knows what reason. The underbody undercoat was an off white colour, but im not sure if they were all that colour, same with the inside of the roof etc. The 1977 is not at my place, but perhaps cuong may have compliance dates on it. exterior is a gold, interior is a cream. It is a manual with dealer fitted air con i think, which occupies most of the passenger footwell. The '74 2+2 has a 280zx motor and transmission? at a guess. I wouldnt trust any of that car to be original.

I have: RS30 015110 RS30 001026 GRS30 005199 If your interested in the 260Z's

I didnt beleive any Z cars had power steering orther than ZX onwards

Hi all, I am selling my P90/F54 L28E (read: RARE) running in a mostly complete 2+2 with all injection gear etc. Also with it I have the OEM Nissan turbo manifold and turbo (read: RARER). Everything you need as a base for a killer 240Z/260Z conversion and it all bolts right up. The main advantage I see is that the motor and injection gear is running in a 260Z engine bay making for a map for an easy changeover into your car. The 2+2 has many parts/panels which can also be used or sold to the buyers benefit. Neither the turbo motor or manifolds were sold here and are near impossible to find. The P90 is widely regarded as the best flowing L series head whilst the F54 block is known as the strongest, hence why Nissan used them for the L28ET. $1,500 with free 2+2 parts car. (Reason? I just landed me a great job and now have the funds to try a more exotic/expensive motor:devious: )

I went to the local Z specialists and they were fitting an Rb26 to a 240z, I asked about it and they said mounts are actually available off the shelf a store. Im not 100% on which store, but castlemaine rod shop springs to mind.

hehe....is the floor going to be painted in 2pack?

Well, if any of you have a spare washer bottle with the 2 little pumps working order I woudlnt mind buying it along with the front right corner valance/stone guard panel under the head light.

my car was done at racefix in braeside for the melbourner's, they do old datsuns all the time.

I think this is why you need to find a body shop and not an accident repairer. Its hard to do, but some people still take pride in their work and know how to do more than order a new 1/4 panel from the OEM.

This guy probably will be able to help you, based in Victoria though: electronics@datafast.net.au

They are some strange vents arent they?

Willing to sell

Yeh I have heard a lot of places do that, not keen to pass old cars in case it comes back to bite them

Ive never bee a fan of pre mapped replacement chips which I assume this is. A full programmable engine managemnt system like haltech, motec, autornic is much more worth while when chasing power due not only to features but the fact that you will have it tuned to suit your exact car.

Anyone got any recommendations of any Melbourne RWC issuers who will give old cars like a Z the time of day? Most want to have nothing to do with them or are extremely stringent in an effort not to pass them as they are a liability. Thanks

http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zfueltankremoval.html The photos I took are not very detailed but may be of some sort of assistance.

Its a very simple job, you dont need much clearance at all. Just drain the tank with the bolt at the bottom so it is nice and light and then undo the bolts holding the fastening straps at it will fall. (Note: you should have disconnected the fuel lines and sended wires etc first )

Cant I enjoy my mad panic after getting home from the mechanics without someone trying to talk sense into me? These deposits are fairly serious though, enough to fill the thermostat housing and seize the hosing bolts into the head enough that an oxy and welding nuts onto it just snaps the bolt further and further. In my disapointment I was just thinking that I wanted an L28 in the end any way, so why stuff around with the L26. Im sure things will be clearer in the morning. Thanks