drunkenmaster

Who has used where and what are their impressions? Pleas be as honest and brutal as legailty permits PM me if its too bad I would like a few people opinions for a couple reasons: a) I need to get my 1977 Z roadworthy asap and as much as I like tinkering with it its costing me too much to have it off road so it would be in my best interest to dump it somewhere for a major service/tune/inspection. I will be having a pair of L28's rebuilt and have been informed that for best results, dont use my back yard, so again another one for the pro's.

Thanks. Yeh im just going to do one at a time, get my '77 roadworthy and drive that while I build the '74, then when the '74 is done take the '77 off the road to do that. Im on the lookout for a cheap 82-83 280zx now for another EFI motor as i wanna save my f54/p90 for the turbo ....I know I could buy a motor and the rest in bits, but im sick of chasing after bits.

Yeh, I will give an oil change a shot. It doesnt effect shifting, more just my curiosity as all of my Z's have done it but no other car I have ever driven,

Nah, he wasnt interested ages ago. Anyways i think I am going to bite the bullet and keep both, build the silver one NA and then when thats running take the other one off the road and build it turbo.

Since your clutching at straws I may as well too. WTB: F54 block L28E or L28ET or cheap car (260Z/28zx etc) with either fitted.

All 3 of my 260Z's have made this noise, you can feel it through the resistance in the gear stick when down shifting and hear the corresponding high frequency "spinning" noise. Its not a problem, Im just curious about it though.

As a few of you know I am selling my project to undertake another, if not very similar one: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8842 The only reason I am selling it is the fact that I need to get a car road registered ASAP and dont have the finances to build two. I have spent a lot of my own time on this car as well as paid a fair amount of cash so obviously its a tough decision. If anyone knows anyone who may be interested it would really help me out. Thanks guys

After forgetting what is was like to actually drive a working Z car I have a few little questions after finally getting one on the road again. Is there any way to stop the shock/kick/clunk of the diff when shifting? We get a similar isue in our Z31 but its more pronounced in the 260Z. The spings in the clutch I beleive are meant to absorb the shock down the driveshaft so would alterning these help? What about a new rubber diff mount to replace the existing strap? Also what is the soft whirring/whinning noise from the gearbox when you slide the gear in when downshifting? I remember one of my other Z's did this and my new one just reminded me. Hardly technical and possobly stupid questions, but they are on my mind all the same

A big decing factor for me was if the enigne bay will be repainted... If so there is a bunch of mechanical items you can do while the enigne is out as you dont want to have it out twice. This further mixes up the paint or body first plan..

Well, really you can look for the obvious things like rust but if the owner is dishonest most flaws can be concealed/patched up. If you interested in using the motor in it, take it for a drive and perhaps get a mechanic to look over it. Look at the body for obvious rust or repairs, look that the gaps between all the panels are even as an indicator of some repairs or damage. Look under the car around the frame rails that run parallel down the car. Usually it is hard to see rust here due to sound deadening but if you can see rust through the deadener then its a sure sign that its bad. Areas to look are in front of the rear wheels, under the spare tyre, under the footwell carpets, battery area, flat deck area above the tail lights witht he hatch open, and if you get a chance to see in the drainage area in front of the windscreen.

why would you want to do this... EFI has the potential to give you better fuel consumption, reliability, cold start and power...plus you can tune it once and then leave it alone forever. To do it thought will be quite simple I imagine, simply rip off the efi intake manifold and half the cars wiring related to it and the computer. Fit your carbs and linkages and grab the choke cable etc from a parts car...

I was of the beleif that the F54 block was the turbo block along with the P90 head. The N42 block and head were the NA L28 combo. Not that there is too much difference in the blocks mind you aside from the slight strengthening....

My latest Z's turn signals dont work either. They all work fine using the hazard switch but using the stalk does nothing. I removed it and it was spotless, very clean and almost looked new. I couldnt spot any obvious faults or bad joints so I am confused. Also the reverse lights dont work... Any advice would be great

Thanks, which side of the city are you? There are some problems with the electrics as well, plus a very noisy fuel pump...have to have a Z intensive weekend.

Its being delivered to my house for a small fee. Was too much hastle trying to organise picking it up from the depot on the other side of the city during business hours while i am working Will let you know how I go for sure :classic:

It is cuong's old 260Z. I bought it for a daily driver as I got offered a good price on my trusty mitsubishi and sold it. Basically I want to tune it up and get it past roadworthy and take it from there. EFI is definately the way to go, I have an EFI motor for my other car but Im not trying to spend too much on this car just yet til i work out what I am doing.

And to dive even further off track, does this look like a decent buy? Grimer Diagnostic Tune up Analyzer, ES Pro dual beam inductive timing light, both with inst. books, PCond will not sep $51 lot

I dont know, extra, new, project, daily driver, parts car, its all blending into one. The Z's are getting out of control. It should arrive tomorrow and apparently the 240Z round top carbs fitted to the L26 are in a poor state of tune, hence all the q's about what fuel to use because whatever i fill it up with is what i am going to have a crack tuning it with. Since I have side tracked myself, where in Melbourne (or possibly interstate) can you pick up a Unisyn and perhaps a ColorTune. From my reading these 2 tools and a lot of fiddling are all that is required for a decent tune up?

Old motor as far as i know....it is seperate to my project 260Z, this is my other other 260Z i just bought last week making a total of 3 :stupid:

Im not really in it for the power, more the fact that I hear many people claim LRP is a poor quality fuel.

VH commodore??? thats an unpleasant thought... i assumed VH as in VH45DE...

Thanks guys, The motor in question is a carb'd standard L26, not my L28ET. So perhaps alternate Optimax and LRP due to the standard seats?

Dont know about better engine, i think the VH45DE 4.5L quad cam V8 would go rather nicely.

Since I am soon to be back in the world of running Z's (courtesy of a recent purchase from a fellow aussie member) I am curious to what fuel you guys run? LRP? Optimax? 3 tanks Optimax then 1 tank LRP? etc etc Thanks

Well, i guess there are downfalls to any method and having the car on stands or a rotisserie. My pet peeve of having the car on stands and working on my back is worming my way along the underside of the car only to have pointy wires that have shot off the wire wheel embed themselves into my back.