260DET

My spare body is HS30-00794. Probably blue originally.

IIRC there was a factory competition box with the dogleg first/second gear change arrangement. Makes a lot of sense for any competition use, except drags or autocross I suppose. Then there were the Hollinger gear sets available for competition use I think but don't know whether or not the shift pattern was changed for them.

So how many miles/k's did you clock up getting her home? Across the Nullabor is a long introductory drive.

Yes, there is some useful info there. For the Z, it looks like that if you increase caster by increasing the effective length of the tension rods you will get more Ackerman as well. A good thing apparently, within reason. If I have this right, lengthening the tension rods will bring the tie rod's outer pivot point forward (in front) of the steering rack pivot point. Which increases Ackerman. As they say, you can get the same result by moving the rack rearwards, not readily doable with a Z. Conversely, increasing caster by moving the strut top pivot point rearwards will not change Ackerman at all. Comments?

All X- Falcons had a strut front suspension, from the EA on they changed.

Have a look at any strut suspension Falcon. I'm going to do this shortly but I believe that they will fit with some modification to the bolt on end. Let us know what you find out.

Thanks Biker, you're a gem. The number after each time is the outright place? eg Siddons came 4th outright?

The price is right but how do you fit inside it?

Anyone able to post the results?

One thing to consider when fitting Toy four spots to the front, or any other four spots for that matter, is the potential effect of increased front braking power you will get, assuming that increase is not balanced by an equivalent increase in rear braking power. Such an increase may in certain circumstances lead to front brake lockup. Not a good thing.

Smaller wheels also lower the car. Drive there with your larger road wheels/tyres, change to your smaller wheels with race rubber. One bloke I know does this, tows a small trailer with his race wheels in it.

The self adhesive weights are by far the best option. The clip on type look off and the clip itself can cause a slow air leak. Happened to me.

The wheels themselves may be balanced but what about the tyres? It is common practice to get the wheels balanced with the tyres fitted. Any decent tyre seller can do that, IMHO the self adhesive balance weights which go on the inner part of the wheel rim, inside or out, are the best. If for some reason that cannot be done, then there are the weights which clip onto the edge of the rim, right where the tyre meets it.

The original tailshaft in my '77 has sealed Ujoints and is still going strong, despite now having to handle twice the torque.

The route I'm taking with my 'new' FJ20DET is to get an engine builder with a good rep to discuss what should be done and recommend who should do what in the specialist/machining department. Then I do the leg work. When everything is to hand, he will build the engine with my 'assistance'. This saves me money, plus I have a hand in the process. There are a few tricks with a L28 so I would be looking for someone who has a proven record with them, preferably someone who builds proven competition engines, which is the ultimate test for any engine builder.

Tried to download the results from the Leyburn site (above) but it wouldn't work for me. So if anyone can do this and post the overall results, want to see where Siddons came, and the Z class results it would be appreciated.

Other US'ers in the past have favourably mentioned the B&M Ripper and Hurst shifters. No experience myself. BTW Dragon, like the front spoiler on your avatar car. I'm designing one similar to that at present for my own Z.

The gearbox noise sounds like the syncros doing their thing but I have never heard such a noise from the later gearboxes. If the shift is otherwise OK a different oil may help.

Best of luck and fun at the Tweed Speed event Biker. Let us know how it goes. At present my 260 has a stock 22mm front bar with heavier modified Superpro brackets and poly bushes. Rear bar is a custom 14mm. All this to be tested at QR, hopefully next week. Did have a 27mm front bar but that was too stiff.

Some use a metal strap looped over the diff nose with a couple of generic rubber bump stops inside which restrict movement, in conjunction with a good stock front mount. The strap uses the same bolt locations as the stock fabric loop. This setup works well yet preserves the anti vibration characteristic of the stock mount.

Siddon's Z has no rear sway bar, the front one looks around 22-24mm dia. Koni Sports shocks? And 14" wheels with Silverstones. My 260 without a rear sway bar had a lot of body roll but Siddons' with the 14"ers is very low.

If you want to use a full synthetic, Castrol recommend Syntrans although I put the slightly heavier Syntrax in mine which now works beautifully. In a cold climate though Syntrans may be the better choice.

Having now tried Redline MT-90 in a Nissan gearbox I would now not recommend it. Harsh gearchanges and it just did not feel right. Changed to Castrol Syntrax, a full synthetic, which feels a lot better. Me bad for suggesting something that I had not tried myself.:stupid:

Caution re using Redline oil in the gearbox. I filled my recond box with MT-90 and immediately noticed that the shifts were harsh. So the oil was drained and was found full of tiny brass particles. Now it could be that there is an oil unrelated problem so the jury is out until the box is stripped.

So biker, does your green car have a yellow grille? Second in class is pretty good.