260DET

Boiling brake fluid usually reduces pressure in the brake lines. By all means insulate/protect as others have suggested but the real problem may be with your master cylinder itself or maladjustment of its actuating rod. Rather than recon your existing components you may wish to do a big brake upgrade using new or reconditioned parts. Yes I know it will cost, but having great stopping power is almost as good as having great go power.:classic:

Tricky question, but if you are serious about 'track' (drag racing?) work you amy wish to consider having two sets of wheels, one for the road, one for the track. Anyway, 15x7, or perhaps 15x8, will usually fit without modification, and allow you to use tyres with an aspect ratio of not less than 50. Less than 50 can make for a hard ride for no real advantage. Lots of things to consider - cost and availability of suitable tyres, car ride height, affect on gear ratios, speedo accuracy, wheel offset, etc. I have no knowledge of drag racing but have found tyre sizes around 205 to 225 X 55 to 60 X 15 to be good all round for street and race circuit work on my '77 model. Any wider than around 225 will usually require body modification, at least, particularly in the front.

The Brits got Kylie and Rolf Harris, we don't mind sharing our 'talent' around, even with the Yanks.:classic:

Fortuna supply an eccentric front camber adjuster kit which requires some welding of the Xmember but I strongly suggest that you have it installed by someone who knows how to locate it properly. See Ken at Accurate Suspension, Brisbane, for this work, tell him that Richard from the Z Car Club recommended him.