sblake01

zmaster, rather than bringing back old threads, you should be concentrating on getting the problems solved on your own car. Look at the dates of the thread before you respond. I know you have no way of knowing but this thread was started by who has since passed away. This thread was over a year old when you bought it back to ask an inanae question about a mullfler when the thread wasn't even about mufflers. This type of thing might be part of the reason you had problems on HybridZ. Chill out on answering the old threads unless you have something pertinent to add.

Bill, it was a joke. (smiley face?)

Stock head, stock cam: I'd vote against triples. As far as your SU's go here some advice that Bruce gave another member that was having lean problems.

One thing I notice, and maybe it's just the quality of the video or just my imagination, but I don't see a vacuum line connected to your fuel pressure regulator.

Looking at my pictures in post #3, does your 75 have any wiring on the back of the relay box like that?

Having never done that on the my Z I'm not sure if this applies but I once replaced the glass on my wifes Sentra a few years ago and besides the rubber guides there was some sort of adhesive that held the glass in place.

I got my US subscription for $9.99. Don't know if that's because I'm a member or if they're having a special.

Check with your local AC shop. What compressor is is a Hitachi MJ167? I've actually rebuilt a couple of those and I'm pretty sure the parts are still available. Does your compressor look anything like this one or this one? If so, Norm will sell you one of them at 70-90% off the original list price. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/

Stock or modified, I'm right. If you just want the have the last word on this, go ahead, it really doesn't matter to me.

The ballast resistor's job is to keep from cooking the coil, not the points. The voltage crossing the points is only to trigger the coil to discharge. High tension coil voltage only runs down the wires through the dist cap and rotor. Semantics. Running any coil without the ballast resistor on a points distrubutor will shorten the life of the points. As far as 'hot' coils go, the ignition will only use the voltage it needs and a given speed, load, etc. If you have a 40000, 60000, 100000 volt coil, it's just overkill.

I purchased a Modine radiator from a local shop about three years ago for just a shade under $160 out the door. I couldn't have my stock one re-cored because one of the tanks was shot.

More commonly known as a flare wrench. Hope that's what you're using on your brake lines.

The problem with doing that is that teflon tape isn't designed to use on flare fittings and might actually keep them from seating properly.

I'm not sure as to the number of cores but a 74.5-78 radiator is taller than a 70-74 radiator. Mine is three core but it's aftermarket. Most of the aftermarket radiators sold now have the trans cooler in them regardless of whether it's being installed in a stick or automatic car.

What that looks like is previous owner 'mickeymousedness'. It's really tough to diagnose something like that without having a manual or a correctly wired similar car to compare it to. That's why your're not getting many (if any) helpful responses. The fusible link to the EFI relay on mine is green (40a) but mine is a 78. Don't know if a 75 is the same or not.

Many companies made that design of wheel back in the day. Cragar, Appliance, Western, etc. Nothing special.

If it's an L24E, it would have 'P30' stamped on the block just ahead of the drivers side motor mount or 'F54' if it's a 80-83 ZX engine or 'N42' if it's a 75-80 engine. Or look on the side of the block just below the 5 and 6 sparkplug. It should have 'L24' or 'L28' as the first three characters before the numbers depending on which it is.

Red-50A, Black 80A.

The first two pics are your fusible link holders. They actually look like they've melted(!) since they're supposed to be mounted with screws on the relay box that they are dangling next too. You've got a mess on your hands there!

Glad you're not my neighbor.

And that's at just one of 9 junkyards that are within a 25 mile radius of where I live. There used to be more Z's. I've found three fairly complete 810 2dr hardtops over the last couple of years. And those are harder to find than Z's.

I went to the junkyard a couple of days ago. At the particluar one I went to there was a 72, a 73, a 75, and two 77s, as well as several ZXs and a couple of RWD Maximas. They were fairly well picked over and I doubt that you would consider any of them 'gems'. Well maybe one of the Maximas.

Those are already at about 25 bucks including shipping with over 4 days left. Not bad but I'm sure I can do better than where they'll probably end up. If you don't win, send me a PM.

For the lug nut in question, unless you know the exact measurements, a specialty shop won't do you any good and maybe not even then. Like I said, it's a proprietary Nissan lug nut. If you have a local junkyard, that's your best bet. If you go to a dealer, or shop like Stockton wheel, you're just spending extra money unnecessarily.

From what I understand, the strainer is NLA.