sblake01

Are you talking about doing the fabrication/body work/mechanical work, etc. to shorten a 2+2 to 2 seater dimensions??? Forget about it. It wouldn't be worth the time and expense.

The ZX/810/Maxima clutches are actually a little taller than the S30 units. At least, the OEM ones. Compare the distance from where the clutch mounts on the water pump to the back of the clutch in your picture to my or Arne's picture. So the combination of a S30 fan clutch and fan will definately give you more clearance.

The fact that I can see the clutch through the openings in the side of the fan tells me you have fan type number two. 280Z engine or 280ZX engine? Generally, except for the 79 the ZX had the type two fan and that's what yours looks like. Take a look at my 78 clutch and fan. Even though the shroud is kind of in the way you can see how it sits back farther than yours. The one I'm holding in the picture is a good spare, same type as the one on my car and it works fine. PM me if you're interested.

I wish I was closer. It's about 500 miles away from me. One trip to the junkyard for a couple of parts and I'd have that thing passing smog.

As long as you have the items that should be on a 77, i.e. thermotime switch, water temperature sensor, cold start valve, etc., and they're hooked up as per the 77 setup with good connections, everything should work. Which AFM do you have? The one from the 77 or the later one? The only reason I ask that is that the 77 would still have the contact points for the fuel pump and the ZX AFM wouldn't.

Here are the two different fans. Note the mounting surface locations. The first one will sit farther away from the radiator than the second one.

There were basically two types of plastic fans that were used. One that has it's mounting surface at the front and one that has the mounting surface at the back basically for the later cars with a three row crank pulley. Which fan do you have now? Is your car early enough to still have the metal fan or at least the clutch that came with it?

Well, hate to say it, but you're going to have to open her up.

I didn't reacall his other threads and didn't try to read his mind because I'm not to good at reading mysteries:).

The CHTS is not used on a 77 or any S30. It's a ZX thing. And the photo of your distributor is correct. The picture you found seems to be rotated a little too far counter clockwise. It's set way to the retarded side and unless he has is distributor drive incorrectly mounted, his car will run like shi+ that way.

I'd probably look for them in the junkyard but they do have part numbers. Those numbers supercede to 12333-V0700 and 12330-V0700 respectively. Don't know if they're still available however.......

I don't use the 'in tank' type stuff but I do use a cannister type cleaner every 25K miles or so which is a much more complete cleaning and restoration of the injector spray pattern.

I wouldn't want to arc a coil. Might cause damage, to your car or your finger.:classic: You can buy a voltmeter cheap at places like Harbor Freight if you have those in your area. I've seen them for under 5 bucks there.

That's what I'd do. After putting that much expense and effort into a car, I wouldn't be willing to take that kind of a loss on it. If I were in his situation, I'd find some way of keeping it until I could afford to properly repair it. But I do most of the work myself and that does cut down somewhat on the expense.

The distributor spins because the engine turns it. Use a volt meter on the + side of the coil with the key turned to the on position to see if the coil is getting power.

If you have a 76, then look for a 76 harness. There is enough difference between a 75 and a 76 harness to make it a at least a partial PITA.

Nope.

I'm not sure he knows based on that brief description. Sounds like the typical 'guess and throw parts at it until you get it right' syndrome. If an 'ECM and a couple sensors' would fix it, why not get them and do it. Afrer replacing the alternator, catalytic converter and fuel pump an buying an alarm system for it why stop there?

Every now and then, you have to clean the connections where it plugs into the sender and occaisionally take the sender itself out and clean it up and make sure it's working properly. That seems to help with the accuracy on my cars. The sender is just a thermister that reads based on resistence. The top of the arm that holds the float is like a 'needle' that slides along a row of windings. Sitting in one spot for 150 miles would indicate to me that there's a 'dead spot' in the windings.

The ones you pictured, part number KEY00-00056, are the ones I have for my 78 280Z. The 'mirror' of them, KEY00-00055, are the ones I have for my 79 810.

Bruce, that can't be too much of a secret. My dad showed me that one when I was about 13. (Many years ago!)

The pressure is supposed to be there when you remove the gas cap. Part of the evaporative emission control system which they are closely scrutinizing now on the California smog checks. Hard to start when cold could be a problem with your cold start valve/thermotime switch circuit or lack of fuel pressure. How does it start when it's warm? The hesitation could be due to a bad water temperature sensor or a bad connection at the sensor. I say 'could be' because these item have been known to cause those problems but you need to run through the troubleshooting procedures to be sure.

Here it is. Hope it's clear enough to read and that you can make more sense of it than I.

What I would try is connecting the yellow wire with the down wire.

The ZX had a circuit for the antenna that allowed it to stop halfway up or down. That's what the yellow wire is for. I don't know how to bypass that but I could upload the diagram from the FSM if that would help.