dmorales-bello

Zed Head's logic is right on the money. If you improve the brakes on the rear of the vehicle only, you subsequently alter the balance provided by the factory setup bias. In order to return to the original bias you either have to upgrade the front brakes as well (theoretically in the same proportion as you improved the rears), or introduce an adjustable proportioning valve.

I've had two 280s (a '77 and a' 78) and had no idea an auxiliary electric fan was ever offered as optional equipment.

My '78 280 is 3 and a bit. I guess 3.1 as well. That completes every year 280.

Many great points to consider in all your experienced comments. I will digest all the numerous tips before I decide which way to go. I don't have an engine hoist so the Unistrut route or a variant thereof might be my method of choice. I'll report back. Thanks for all the great help fellas.

@ZedHead , preparing another crossmember for a "quick" swap is a great idea. It would certainly cut down the time exposed to risk. I'll have to start the search for a crossmember in great shape that only needs cosmetic work (like mine). Does any member have any experience performing this type of operation? Anyone with a spare '78 front crossmember they would like to sell?

My engine is fully detailed/finished and I really don't need to take it out for any other reason so I'm trying to avoid that extra work.

After completing my '78 280Z rear end refresh I've been gathering some upgraded components for a front end refresh for the last few months: Tokico Illuminas, new ball joints, Apex Engineered inner and outer tie rods, steering knuckles, and some PU bushings. I plan to media blast and powder coat the my OEM control arms, steering rack components AND front crossmember. My problem is how to safely and effectively suspend my engine to remove the crossmember while the front end is up on jackstands??? I've thought of holding the motor up with a couple of taller jackstands, fabricating a "bridge" to be placed between the top of the strut towers and hang the engine from it, etc. Has anyone done something like this? Ideas and opinions would be greatly appreciate it.

I think that's a great alternative.

Very nice Mario! It's great to see the experienced hands of Mr. Vitorino at work.

Did you take any pics of that?

I don't think the ECM removal will grant you more space since the pod itself can only be pushed in so far. I took my Dremel and carefully filed down the edge of the Polk Audio speaker grill where the clutch pedal contacted until it was clear. I only removed about 1/8" of plastic. I'll try to take a pic and post for you.

Just realized I never posted pics of Derek's speaker pods installed on my 280Z with the Polk Audio 5.25" speakers. The sound in my car is outstanding and the new front speaker placement balances my system very nicely.

Nissan needs input from the folks at Jaguar who designed the current F-Type. Now there's a design that picks up on all the design cues that (with some basic changes for branding like headlight scoops) could have carried the spirit of the 240Z into the present market, US and worldwide.

Great content and quality pics! Thank you for letting us all enjoy them.

Update on this old but always pertinent post: As per @2377kn preference on his research on green LEDs, I got hold of some of the same bulbs from Amazon (bulb # 6 in his post) and went back to green lighting on my gauges in an effort to dial back the "mod" in restomod inside the cabin. Along with the Datsun Comp steering wheel and the original shift knob on the short-shifter shaft, the green instrument lighting fits right in and everything looks proper.

Got it! Thanks Dave.

I'm sorry Dave but exactly what does "routing a radius at the end of the cracks" means? Pardon the ignorance on my part....

It all depends on the final quality of the Vintage Dash reproductions but 40+ year old plastic will undoubtedly crack sooner than later, it's just a matter of time. Considering how labor intensive it is to replace a dash, and that you've already taken out your original dash, if the Vintage Dash units live up to expectations you will save yourself a lot of time and trouble replacing your old dash with a new repro now. My original dash was perfect at the time I restored my "78 280Z and has developed two hairline cracks that will surely grow (even though kept in a climate controlled garage). I'm on the waiting list for a Vintage Dash unit now but I'm not looking forward to the work involved.

Very ingenious AFM adjustment tool Capn' ! You're a constant source of amazement.

Great looking dash and instrumentation! Nice work.

Porsche fan as well! Many similarities with our Zs. Here are my two "boys" meeting face to face:

You gotta love the story and the provenance of your car! Great luck and many posts.

My best advice is to try to read every post on this forum. The knowledge base is absolutely incredible and you'll come across topics you would never have thought of. Read a few hours a day for at least one month and only then go shopping for that Z! You'll pick much better and save lots of money and headaches.

I have 2 hairline cracks on the top of my dash and I think they've developed after I bought it (3 years ago). According to the p.o., the car was always garage kept and I have kept it in a temp controlled garage. However, during take down and restoration, the workshops were not temp controlled and I think that's what produced these 2 tiny cracks.

They're excellent. You won't be disappointed.