wheee!

Procrastinating on the floor pans a little, waiting for some advice from Charlie. Spent some time removing what looked like perfectly good seam sealer last night. Scraped away a large amount from around the trans tunnel and floor pans in the interior. OMG!! The hidden rust! Places that looked pristine were hiding more cancer under the seam sealer! If anyone is in doubt, REMOVE the seam sealer! Remove the rust, prep the metal and seal it again! Yeesh.

I was thinking I might. Same reason you mention and it would be before any resurfacing or milling. As for how, it will be tricky to keep it balanced before and after milling.

Is this all original sheet metal too or have there been panel repairs?

I will definitely try and get some pics for you!

It will be run-out checked on a lathe for centre and true flatness, then centre marked for each new lug position with a true-centre punch, then milled on a milling machine...

. I would love this car but my own project is enough at the moment... It belongs back in Alberta!

Prepping the stub axles for 5 bolt redrill...

Very nice.

I think you're right Mark. I am just "cold" positioning from the outside bottom. If I drop them in from the inside, they will have to be cut and formed considerably on the drivers side of the trans tunnel.

I have a question. The driver side floor pan seems to have a lot of extra metal at the point where it meets the transmission tunnel. The passenger side seems fine. I am wondering if I have the correct floor pan?My concern is that if I extend the metal up the tunnel, the seat supports won't fit anymore. There is about 4 inches gap at the tunnel to the curve of the floor pan. If I bend the floor pan in to meet the tunnel, the two drain plugs against the tunnel will be vertical and the entire curve will be gone. Basically the tunnel starts where the floor pan forms the U channel. If this is normal, I understand some metal work is needed!

This winter has been long... miss driving!

Picked up a connector to build a separate FI harness to the intake.

That stuff works great!

I have the seam sealer between panels as well. Removing it for the paint prep is nasty at best. I will butt weld all panels, then Marine Clean, then Metal Ready zinc, then POR15 the whole frame and undercarriage/interior floor, then seam seal, then tie coat prime, then water based paint, then clear coat.... whew!

I just picked up a set of the frame rails this week and they are aweome. I have his floor pans too. I think they would be the same for the 2+2 but not sure....

Check with Charlie at Zedd Findings.

Untested still. Working on the frame etc. Tonight I did a little paint stripping off the roof...

Did both in Afghanistan my friend...! No pics tho... Except this one in Panjwaii But we digress! Here's a shot of the new fuel pump I cleaned up! Before:

Must be a Government worker! Better... military!

Do you ever sleep? .... at work

Back to the more mundane tasks at hand, grinding and drilling etc. Metal work begins!

Can it be any worse than the OBX reverse installed helical setup? Properly rebuilt I hear it is ok....

Brake booster and vacuum lines: The pcv is just to the left of the brake booster connection. Out of frame.