gwri8

I did it it photoshop. You can drag the small one to your desktop and then upload to your profile.

Resized it for you. Merry Christmas!

I recently had to help Jai out with Redwing not having heat. Turns out that when she had her aftermarket AC installed, the guy who did it put in a petcock valve on the water hose in the engine bay. Is that how you did it CO?

I was a little concerned at first with my green car but decided on complementary colors to the green would be the most pleasing to me. Little splashes of color here and there, not too much of any one color. From my experience, red is a very strong color and a little bit goes a long way. Ford blue is the color of my block with NGK plug wires. These should give you some ideas.

Spindle pins come to mind…...

Also, double check your oil level. It's easy to forget simple stuff when your new baby comes home. Nice color, looks like a good find!

I think they just have an old guy sitting around nearby and when an old car pulls up they say "Hey Charlie, come look at this". That's what they do at the parts counter at Nissan anyway, No?

+1 on the Suaoki. The only time I've had to use mine was to jump a Volvo S80 (not mine). Fired right up. Seems to hold a charge well. I carry it with me in whatever vehicle I drive.

I'll just put this here for the 280Z folks, These are perfect replacements for the 77/78 years. These don't self destruct when you pull them out. Much better that those white ones with teeth that are offered on some of the Z sites. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTVAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, my imagination took a detour when I read that. "There they were in the garage , sitting all warm an cozy in their satin undies………" Maybe I shouldn't look at the boobs thread anymore…….

Well, looks like you don't have to pull the whole engine now , unless you just want to…… As far as why the HG failed, I have no idea but I do know nothing lasts forever. The head, being aluminum, probably is warped. Mine was and it was never overheated either. I do suggest taking it to a competent machine shop and let them clean and check everything out. With the head and manifolds off you'll be able to get to everything else a lot easier. While my head was being serviced I was able to repaint the block, rebuild/lube the throttle linkage, and clean everything in general. Also cleaned all the carbon off the top of the pistons. Pretty! There are two seals at the end of the speedo cable where it connects the pinion gear. Both are on this MSA page. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic22c09 Not too hard to replace. I did have to dig out the smallest seal on my though. I believe @Siteunseen found some replacements at Home Depot? Maybe he can verify? Let the fun begin!

Like the others, I've always pulled the console just to make it easier for installation. I don't like the idea of the shifter jabbing holes in the inner rubber boot or the outer pleather boot upon re-install. It's one thing less to be careful of. The only part I don't like about removing the console is taking out the stereo. Just a PITA to me.

Here's an option I've considered before…...

Not trying to be condescending here. There's are a lot of great/experienced/knowledgeable and (mostly) "adult like" people on this forum. Along with that, I would guess a pretty wide age range also. They take Z's seriously. So It really helps to be specific when questions are asked. That way, we can specifically answer them. Pictures can tell more of the story and provide pieces to a puzzle, like a photo of your engine bay could tell us tons of info to begin with without having to ask if it's turbo, v6, inline 6, or even steroid enhanced hamsters. FB has a few Z pages where people talk all kinds of stuff from coilovers to LS swaps and maybe that's what you're looking for. But it's really hard to get good, reliable information and suggestions there. It's also really easy to get a load of BS info from folks who don't know what they are talking about. This is the good stuff here. Also, spell check really helps guys like me. Your ZX looks very nice by the way.

Arrrrgh! Well, you called it in another thread about your head gasket. Now with the oil pan and front seal, you're probably right about pulling it. If you have the wherewithal and tools It will be much easier to work on that way (especially the timing chain). All that head gasket stuff (gaskets, bolt, studs) adds up pretty quick cost wise and it's not a quick job either.

I can fully understand. I can't even Braze.

Actually, I was serious. There are tons of options with the Z. Performance, Suspension,body or any combination of the basic elements. Full Blown race car to bone stock or even engine swaps. The first thing you have to consider is How much do you want to Spend? How much work are you capable of doing? IMO the Z has to be one of the most modified/molested sports cars in history. It's getting harder to find one that hasn't been altered in some way. Just do a google image search. There are quite a few different web sites catering to the Z community, this one of course, Hybrid Z, Ratsun, Rotsun, Zdriver just to name a few. Even some that just cater to the ZX like yours. Look at all of them and get some Idea as to what you are looking for and get ready to spend some cash.

Drive it, enjoy the feeling. Learn how to just nod when folks say "NIce Porsche" or " Is that a Jaguar?".

Some links: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19o/15-8083 http://www.zcarsource.com/exhaust-manifold-parts-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx_8_77826.html http://datsunspirit.com/shop/intake-exhaust-studs/ https://zcardepot.com/engine/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit-240z-280z.html Some people prefer stainless steel, Some people like the copper nuts, Other people just like the regular OEM parts. Point is, They all work I personally got my exhaust studs from Datsun Spirt and have not had any problems with them. Good Luck.

My first "big" project on mine was the front seal. The PO said it was using about a qt of oil every 700 or so miles. Turns out it was all going out the front seal. It….was….everywhere, including all down the oil pan. Might be part of your issue? It took 2 cans of engine degreaser and a roll of shop towels to get most of it. And In case you didn't know, engine degreaser kills grass and dirt for a long, long time. So be careful with that. Personal experience speaking here. Now you get to pull the radiator and fan also, which is not to terrible. If it is leaking bad up there, be sure to check your crank for wear. Sometimes it gets a groove in it from the previous seal. You might have to put a sleeve on it. O'Reillys carries that part if you need it.

Looks like you've got 30 days to return. I'd Send it back in a heartbeat, especially if you used paypal.

Actually, a ratchet wrench might work in that spot. Home Depot (Husky brand) has some slim ones. On mine there is actually a philips bolt in one of those spots. It made easy access for that one only. As for torque, "use the force Luke". When you torque the others, just remember how far on average you go past snug and that should be pretty close. Enough for an oil pan anyway. 2 cents coming at cha'.

Mark, you're making this all look too easy. Excellent work!

I paid to have mine done last year along with a rear seal. I do recall laying under the Z thinking "Now, how am I going to do this?". I had one of those moments when it occurred to me that I had stretched my learning cure a little too far. So I punted….. I'll be following this thread.

All looks good to me. Safe travels.