abas

I put paint thinner through mine with a syringe. As it is clear fluid you can easily see what rust and crap is coming out. Any thinner residue in the fuel lines will evaporate afterwards. A bad blockage will probably need a high pressure air hose to clear it out. Even that might not work if you have solidified fuel 'varnish' in the fuel lines/tank feed lines. Hope it helps Andrew

MikeW I did the same, but still got no answer. Andrew

Texasz Maybe she is there and is just selling off stock, MWZ has sold a number of buy it now items over the past couple of weeks. I asked a question on one of the auctions and got no reply. However, the world continues to turn and I think most of her customers have waited long enough and have now moved on. I and others I know who bought from her now go elsewhere. What a shame - it was good while it lasted. Andrew

Oh yes. I am now collecting parts for the car I am restoring now and for the one I have that I will restore in years to come. Q: What is better than a z. A : 2 z's Andrew

Dave they were the only badges that were always made of plastic. (mores the pity!!) Andrew

In the UK z's are SO rare that most people have absolutely no idea what they are so they don't know whether to slag it off or not. It helps to not have any datsun badges otherwise they WILL slag it off. Example: your car isn't all rusty, the tyres are OK. Hahahahahahahahahah!!!!! - what a comedian!!!

Another hi jack - sorry Ben, is that a rally clock in your car there? Super rare if so Andrew

you are obsessed, but your priorities sound just fine Hope everyone stays safe. Andrew

the shame is a lot of the value of the car is the low mileage. So presumably any new owner will buy it to store it, not to drive it, although I hope I am wrong.

If this is the case then what happens to stuff we have already paid for?. I know that Chloe had stuff there with my name on, that I have already paid for, just waiting to be shipped. I know I'm not the only one in this boat. I know what the procedure would be in the UK but what about in the US? Andrew

Last item that midwestz had for sale on ebay has been withdrawn by seller http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2480988202&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Any body know a useful alternative source for all those small bits and pieces that Chloe was so good at getting? Andrew

I used keysforclassics.com in Oz for some replacement keys. They made me up some door keys for my 1970 car from the 4 digit code stamped on the lock. They have all the different types of keys for 1960's & 70's nissan's available for order on their website. They also provided me with the code for my (very worn) ignition key from a hi-res photo of the key that I sent them. Hope it helps Andrew

Moyest The Datsun name in the UK is synonymous with 1970's crappy economy rust buckets. I will admit to occasionally referring to my car as a 240z (without the datsun bit) Andrew

A long time back I was having a drink with some mates in a beer garden, and my z was in the car park where I could see it. Some young blokes were walking across the car park and saw my car, and made kind of approving noises ( 'look at that' sort of thing). One of them went over to it and the next thing I heard was, 'Christ its only a f**ing Datsun' Andrew

Same here. I had just emailed her with some info on tracking shipping to the UK, and she wanted some more info. I replied and then .... nothing.... Twilight zone.... Belated congrats for getting vin 27, Chris Andrew

Something has changed today on Midwestz's website. It refers to a new website and a mailing list. Hopefully this is a positive development www.midwestz.com

I had a number of great driving holidays around the Highlands of Scotland, particularly Western and North Western Scotland around the Lochs and the Isle of Skye. Open flat roads, virtually no traffic and the added challenge of avoiding suicidal sheep. Sadly none of trips were in a z and I would love to repeat them in my z. I haven't been to Scotland for a few years now. The decent roads are probably covered in speed cameras now.

At times like this you know that god is a zedhead

Carl I think this valve on the firewall in later cars was instead of an inline proportioning valve inboard of the right rear wheel (which is what the earlier cars had). This was the same as on the 260z. Andrew

That was the car that someone here was trying to save recently. Better I think to use it as a donor car to convert another one to RHD rather than try to save the original fairlady shell. Go for it Brian, you know it makes sense Andrew

pushing the pins out has never failed to work for me, the only thing that might go wrong is if you don't push straight on the head of the pin, or that the badge has been stuck to the car as well as being held on the with the pins. Good luck, and if you break one I might have a spare badge for you. Cheers Andrew

It is strange, but as the kittens and and the z are still there she must still be in residence. I would guess from my conversations with Chloe that she wouldn't go very far without them. I have some money tied up too, but for now I am more concerned with for her wellbeing

Brian no problem, glad to be of help. Best thing about this forum is someone has nearly always done it before. I don't know of any write ups on the conversion, which is why I ended up going into it heavily myself. I do know a couple of people who have done a 'home' conversion, and so it is probably not so bad as long as you have a donor car/or pictures to see what you are aiming for. I can let you have some pictures of the relevant bits of a stripped RHD shell if you don't have access to this. Just let me know. Andrew

LHD to RHd is quite common in UK and I presume Oz/Nz as well. Not so common in the US I would have thought. As someone who was seriuosly going to convert my LHD 70 and went into it pretty deep here goes: 1) RHD firewall - only need RHD steering plate from firewall only, you can leave the LHD steering plate there as well - no need to take it out. 2) Steering rack yes 3) Steering column no - but the turn and headlamp switches are transposed so you would need those from a RHD car 4) dash - yes and uncracked RHD dashes are easier to get than LHD 5) - console no, they are the same on RH and LH cars 6) - the pedal box and pedals are all different LH to RH due to the offset on the car, you will also need the throttle linkage that is different, unless you are going for cable throttle. ( ie webers) 7) heater box and blower fan housing is transposed so you would need one from a RH car. 8) Wiper linkage/scuttle panel is different( but I suppose you could leave the linkage as it is on a LHD car) 9) brake/clutch pipes in engine bay all need to be changed: master cylinders and servo are the same LH to RH. The brake line that runs to the rear of the car can be bent round to fit on RH cars. 10) Engine wiring loom is different but not so significantly that a LH one couldn't be extended to fit. 11) You also need to cut off and reweld a whole load of heater/steering and sundry brackets, including the battery tray from a RHD car. Not surprisingly this conversion is ususally only done with a complete rhd donor car to hand. But the biggest problem and the one that made me drop the idea is the relocating of the heater duct from the rh side to the LH side of the car. This is under the dash, behind the firewall. There is quite a bit of skilled cutting and welding needed to resite this correctly so that the heater will work and all the brackets line up. But it can be done as long as you have a good welder. Phew!!! Hope it helps Andrew

Has anyone had any success changing the colour of the taillights? I have a pair of good US ones that are illegal to use over here, and I could do with making them look like euro ones.( ie change the indicator colour from red to orange) I have found being able to take the rear lights apart is also useful to be able to swap in a better rear plastic bit that bolts to the car. This frequently gets chewed up or the screws drilled out especially if the llights haven't been removed for 20 years plus.