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Chris!!!! I suppose $500+ might be a bit excessive for a tan rear vented hatch panel :laugh: Andrew

Chris perfect donor car for you if its not saveable. I hope sitting for 20 years has not damaged the interior too much. My guess of $5,000 was based on the current(at the the time) now retracted bid of $2,000. If we are viewing the car as a donor then I expect it will get a lot less, maybe $1,500. For that the owner gets a shell that might go to the crusher, hopefully a stock of super rare 69 parts or a bonanza selling them on, and can still say 'I own number vin 27' :classic:

I'll go for $5,000 just because of the sheer rarity of something like that on ebay. And I understand the speculators are in there when it comes to the really low vin number 69 cars. I think it is almost expected that the early cars have to be restored to original, especially if they are to command big price tags, and therin lies the problem. Some of the parts unique to the 69 cars are so rare so as to be totally unobtainable, and unless the car still has virtually all the bits needed it will be a huge job to source/remake anything that is missing. A statistic that Carl Beck quoted a short while back was that out of the 120 or so 69 cars left, ( I'm quoting from memory here so I apologize if I am significantly out) only about 40 were roadworthy, the rest were in need of total restoration. I wonder how many of the 80 projects will ever be completed, as you can still say 'I own vin number 27' whether it is a runner or just a chassis plate on the wall of your garage. I hope vin 27 gets bought and restored. Just my opinion Andrew

You should be able to: quite a few cars over here have the 2.8 L24 engine. the only question is whether your l24 block can take the 86mm overbore. You have to get the cylinder walls checked via ultrasound to see if they are thick enough. Just a though, why not just put the head and EFI on the L24 at as it is or will that not work? hope it helps Andrew

You are right Mike, Chloe does work from home. Farrisl, it would be a greatly appreciated by us all I think if you could drive by and check Chloe is OK.

My 1970 car dropped a valve sometime in the late 80's, and sat around in CA for a year or two. In late 1990 it came to the attention of someone scouting for early cars to be exported to the UK where only 1970 year cars were eligible for for the HSCC race car series. I bought it from the importer in early 1991 and it waited 10 years in dry storage until I managed to do anything with it. I have to say that 280z has got to be one of the worst rust cases I have seen a picture of. Andrew

Just before the server upgrade I noticed one 240zorg member actually lives in Wichita, Kansas where Chloe lives. I was going to pm him to see if he wanted to go and check on Chloe, but I can't rember his username now though :stupid: The perils of getting old Seriously though, I am concerned for Chloe, as she just seems to have vanished. Hope she gets back in touch soon.

You need to extract the whole light unit from the overhead trim. You will then see the bulb inside the dome light which is then easy to replace. Andrew

Hi welcome to the club, hopefully you will post some pictures of your new car into your gallery :classic: You must remove the dome light from the car first. pry it out gently from the overhead trim with a screwdriver or flat knife. Then bend the tabs up on one side of the chrome surround. The chrome bit should then slide off and the plastic light lense should then fall out as it is only held in by the chrome surround. hope it helps Andrew

Is it a plastic or metal badge. Metal ones are far more resistant to breaking than plastic as you would expect. I puposely went out of my way to get secondhand metal ones to avoid problems with them breaking. Can you get behind the badge inside the car and push the pins out? Andrew

Thanks for the info 240zMan :classic: This is what I had hoped for, as I am not going for big HP on mine, and hopefully the standard SU's will do for me.

British grands prix at Brands Hatch were much better IMHO, at least for the spectators.

A question for the tuning gurus. Is there a limitation on what the standard round tops can do? For a street car such as 240zman's car is it unnecessary to go for bigger su's or triple webers until you are talking BIG HP? thanks for any replies.

Triple webers setup are more akin to having 1 carb for each cylinder as each weber carb has 2 competely separate intakes/internals, whereas each SU (on a triple setup) would be feeding 2 cylinders from 1 intake. Presumably firing order and stuff is not relevant for triple weber setups at all in that case.

Don't the quick knuckles make the steering really heavy at low speed?

There's a picture of the 'boat anchors' on ztherapy's website http://www.ztherapy.com/ and press 'z car' in the left hand frame menu. Note the square mouths.

Nice one Tom :classic:

Same thing happened to me about 15 years ago. I bought a cheap motorbike and rode to work on that while I saved up to get the the daily driver fixed. Still got the 240z. :classic: Hope you find a way to still get the 240z. Andrew

Thanks Halz great pictures.

Ben I'm with you on the seat covers, but I suppose it depends on how bad they are. I maybe an outsider in my humble opinion on this, but I prefer a 30 year old car to look as if it has aged, with signs of use, not to be as shiny/clean as the day it left the factory. Excellent set of pictures of the Z convention by the way :classic: regards Andrew

Ben Do you know if that silver 14,000 mile car the one that was recently almost sold for $30,000? It sounds like the same one. I would guess that Kats was nowhere near interested in a trade though. IMHO these unrestored gems are and should be worth lots of money because anyone with enough money can RESTORE a car but there must only be a few truly original excellent condition cars left. Andrew

But there has to be a point where you say that it might be too far gone. Ed said it, 'more holes than Swiss cheese'. Sure you MIGHT be able to save it if you have a donor car and you are a very keen welder. This kind of argument takes place in the UK for z's, not many were imported and so many have been scrapped that there are very few left. Some people will now try to save ANY z- car that comes along purely because there are so few left. My humble opinion only Andrew

I've got to agree with SteveK here. I KNOW that because I am not a professional mechanic my first gear box change will be a time consuming task, because I want to make sure I don't miss anything or break anything, and because my time is no cost to me I would rather take it slow and do a good job. My first car in the dim and distant past was bought with a blown engine. Getting it running was a bleeding nightmare. I must have removed and installed the replacement (also shagged) engine 20 times. To start with it took me about 1 week to remove and replace. the 20th time it was about 1 hour. I'm sure removing and replacing a gearbox for the 20th time would probably take 3 hours no problem. Andrew

I had an interesting conversation with Carl Beck a short while back about how Nissan produced prototype V12 engined S30 cars, which only didn't go into production because of the fuel crisis in 1973. Now THAT would have been something. And it transpires there were attempts to make it a convertible too. Can you imagine, a V12 convertible Z!!!!!

I asked Chloe for one of those grommets a few weeks back and she said didn't have one but 'she had some ideas where to get one' Could be worth following up when she has cleared her backlog of orders etc.