gramercyjam

Probably not much help but FWIW, I like the first 2 gears of my '73 4 speed with the R190 4.44 rear end for autox. I don't like the 2nd to 3rd spread though and the car never sees 4th anymore. The 5 speed may have a closer 2-3 spread but it probably moves the wider spread down to the lower gears IIRC. When it had a 4.1 rear end on the street it scooted up well over 100 MPH very easily and I thought the 4 speed gears were just about perfect since I don't drive much faster than that ever. But the higher crusing revs and associated higher noise levels made it more tiring to drive. Gas mileage has never been a concern with me for "fun" cars. With the stock rear end, it was just about a perfect cruiser at the expense of a little more spirit from the 4.1 gears, so I really wonder why so many people put 5 speeds in the 240's (unless they put the shorter gears in too). I had the BW T5 in my '83 280ZX turbo and I really don't remember feeling one way or the other about the gears. They were probably just right for a turbo cruiser. I got lots of speeding tickets on the Interstate in that car too as it likes to cruise in 5th at much higher speeds than the 240Z. I do vivdly remember the thing had plenty of problems with the input shaft, presumabily due to the extreme heat from the turbo and that it is very heavy to lift when trying to put it back in after an R&R.

Cool. So what are they for? Generators? What's the fuel consumption rate?

- double post -

Good quality and better selection at Northern Tool, up the street from me here. There is a harbor freight down the street from me too, and I've never seen anything I would want to use there. I have also seen some good ones for a reasonable price on JEG's.

I got those dents when I jack up my car and miss the pinch welds/forget there is nothing there to support the weight of the car. I think I've heard of this from other people too.

Heat shields between the intake/exhaust still installed?

Here's a copy of the instructions Coilover Install

No DOT on mine. They still say off road use only.

Watching people eating disgusting crap like maggots and rancid cheese for the hope of $50G's was fun, but now it's getting a little boring. Best show I saw on TV so far this week was the World Championship Poker Tournament. TV shows just fill up the time in between commercials anyway. If your sitting in front of the TV your throwing away time. Read a book or play a game instead. Now where the heck is the remote control? I wonder whats on channel 208 tonight?

Race car wiring is a piece of cake. I did mine in a day. After gutting the car it was easier to rip out all the old wiring and rewire it than try and figure all the old stuff out and splice it. Plus the old stuff under the hood was was nasty ..... My setup isn't fancy. Just cheap, simple and reliable. Starter switch Ignition switch, Electric fan switch alternator switch fuel pump switch voltmeter switch all wired through a $5 6 circuit fuse block. Bought a few rolls of wire and some spade connectors at the electronics store. Some 8 gauge for the starter to the fuse box run, some thinner stuff for the runs from the fuse box to the coil, etc, fuse box to switches, ground runs. A good 50 amp or so circuit breaker and a relay for the electric fans is a good idea. Then just fuse the circuit that energizes the relay .... Get you one of those automatic wire strippers at home depot for $12 (doesn't need to be the best one they have), they are worth it. Get a good 45 watt Weller soldering iron and stand and some good rosin core solder, an assortment of long shrink tubing that you can cut to size and some of that slit convoluted tubing for putting the wires in to protect them from chafing, a metal/rubber few wire holders that you can screw down and fasten your harness to the body in strategic areas and a handful of nylon wire ties to neaten things up. A heat gun is best for shinking the heat shink tubing. Couldn't find any cheap, long battery cables for relocating the battery so I bought a good set of fine stranded jumper cables and used that wire for the battery to starter run and battery to ground run. I had rewired a some other cars before and have always been real handy with a soldering iron, but it really isn't to hard. Total cost was maybe $120, not including all new gauges. I'm still using the old alternator/external voltage regulator so figuring out the wiring for that was probably the most difficult part. I tried following the schematic to duplicate that wiring, but it didn't work, so I just unwrapped the old harness and copied the connections that way.

Here's what I ordered: Code Product Quantity Price Total ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SF245121G MSA Performance Stainless Steel Brake Lines, 70-81 Z/ZX 1 $67.95 $67.95 SSYear: 70-78 Shipping:: $7.35 Sales Tax:: $0.00 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $75.30 As I recall, they all appear to be the same length, about 12". I don't know what size the fittings are. I assume they are the right fittings and won't require adapters.

I just got some a couple weeks ago. I haven't gotten around to putting them on yet, but they still have an Earls label and look like quality parts and they are quite inexpensive. They may be a tad shorter than I had hoped. If the brake hoses are a little longer than stock, it makes it easier to remove strut inserts and change springs without disconnecting the brake lines or the lower control arms.

I gave away a set of 14X8's just like those a couple months ago just to get them out of my garage after trying to sell them for months. Nobody wanted to give even $20 each for them.

As I recall, the guy you bought the tub from was asking $750 for it. Not a bad price, all said and done. When he offered it to me, if the tub was a few thousand miles closer to me, I would have picked it up myself, log book or not.

ha ha. I've got your wheels and sway bars on my car.

Zvoiture - whose car is that in your avatar?

I had some in very good shape with lugs and caps for about a year. Finally sold them for $150 plus shipping.

Possibly. But I didn't think triples were allowed in ITS, are they?

Here's my thoughts on it. It depends on what you are going to do with the car. Since Solo II rules for an FP 240Z limit carb size to 45mm, that's what you go with. If you are driving competitively and don't have that limit (such as some track cars and other non-stock Solo II classes), and you have the budget for the bigger carbs, bigger is better. If you are not driving competitively, and are just going for a quick street car with the triple bling factor and sound, 40's will do just fine. Quite a few "experts" say that triples aren't worth it if you don't have a hot cam and a lot of head porting, and of course all that helps, but just going to a 2 1/2" exhaust with a good flowing muffler will really bring the triples to life and you can notice a substantial increase in power over twin SU's throughout the RPM range.

Your right. There is no room to work. Every time I do it I wonder how I did it the last time cause it seems impossible. Take a couple of shots of burbon, relax and try again. you will figure it out.

Yeah. I'm originally from upstate NY. I remember when I went to buy my first car - my dad went with me. It was an Austin Healey 3000 rust bucket for $200. Dad said no - too rusty. Of course today, who could have known, you couldn't touch it for for 100 times that and it was worth fixing. But that 82 ain't no Austin Healey 3000.

Exactly. Unless you haven't got the time (like me). Back in my teen years I would have given $35 for something that rusty (and I did). Left it on the side of the road when it died and never looked back.