gramercyjam

Probably not sweating. This is the only place in the car with anything like this. This happened under previous stewardship and I suspect the root cause was a chronically leaky drain tube/hose from the cowl. If you haven't pulled a dashboard, you might not know it was there. I didn't and discovered the leaky tube after pulling the dash. The cowl collects water and drains into the inside of the car and then is passed out the side of the car by this tube. It looked like years of rubbing on the heater blower housing made a small hole in it. The water collected in the frame rail and didn't drain due to the drainage hole plugged up with mud, etc.

Agree. Interior was already stripped down to the paint. I took these pics last night just to document what was there. Then I took the sawzall, spot weld breaker, cutting wheel and pneumatic nibbler to the passenger side and removed the offending metal starting from just behind the T/C bracket all the way back to behind the pass seat so there is no going back now! Next I'll be fitting in a 3X2 steel girder, I mean tube as an upgraded frame rail. The drivers side is good, but I'll need to do both sides so the car doesn't sit lopsided! Most of the floor will be replaced, whether it needs it or not, as I find I can fit sheet metal to the structure easier than I can fit the structure to the sheet metal. I'll post some more pics this weekend if anybody wants to see what I am doing.

Any kind of roadhouse blues for me. I'm out for blood when I'm in the Z. Except I play the music in my head. No radio, tape or CD player in my car. Don't mean to offend but I have never been able to figure out the attraction with U-2 except that somehow lousy song writing, playing and singing somehow make them popular. I need to change the station when one of their tunes comes on (except for that BBKing blues tune they do, I like that one).

From the inside of my car, there wasn't even a hint of the rust that was under the undercoating. Not until the interior sound deadener was completely removed so you could see the telltale pinholes of light. Note that the rust is concentrated at the seams where the frame rail was welded onto the floor and nowhere else. You can see where that other car had it's floor pans replaced before. Hard to imagine.

Here's what is (was) under mine after I chipped it off. This is what is estentially a rust free South Texas car. I hacked this all out last night. So now I am putting in new 3X2X11 Gauge tubing "subframe connectors" to replace the frame rails and a new floor. Lots of welding ahead. Rust at the frame rail seams .. And cracked frame rail at the passenger side firewall. This didn't start happening until I started autocrossing my car.

What the others said, plus it seems to be missing the whole center console.

nope.

I think it all depends on what you plan on doing with the car. You can hardly tell the difference between a 240 and 260 with the bumpers off and the carbs changed. A few minor differences but they are essentially the same chassis. But $4200 is a lot of money for an old car that isn't all one color though.

No more play sand for me, it isn't worth the trouble, whether or not you are reclaiming the media. Black Diamonds - in 50 lb bags from Northern Tools is around $5. Just shot 300 lbs last weekend. Cleans much better than sand, no clogging, clumping, etc (sand will clog no matter how much you sift it). Much less dust and no _silica_ dust either. I blast at 170 psi using a compressor with a 60 gal tank. It will go as long as I want to go. Little 5 HP, 120 PSI compressors with 20 gal tanks will let you blast for about 30 seconds, then you wait 5 minutes for them to pump up. Get a decent blasting hood with lots of extra lenses, a particulate respirator and wear heavy leather gloves.

If the strut bar has rod ends, then they should be adjustable. Rod ends do something else for you too. Rigidly mounted strut bars will flex from bending forces. Rod ends prevent the bending forces from being applied to the strut bar, yet allow the strut bar to do it job.

Many ebay sellers businesses make their profit on shipping alone. I will ask many of them to combine shipping if I am buying several small things from them (like R/C car parts). Many will just say no. Ask them why and they will tell you they don't make any money on the item itself, shipping is how they make their money.

I find it easier to modulate my brakes with booster disconnected. But my car is very light and they lock up very easily.

Well then the striped arse, vitek, and red bolt ideas are looking good as is the BRE. The vitek and red bolt appeal to me more than some of the others because I think the graphics/stripes ideas that go over the front fender detract from the lines of the car. I think the Capt America theme would be more appealing if the stripe that goes in front of the fender to the air dam (lower cowl or whatever that part is called) curved the other way. If I ever get that far on my car I was thinking of painting it with a paintball gun....

Who you be representin'? TexaZ - and it goes with the license plate.

Now I could really get into boating if I had those to play with.